Pie and Pastry Bible (17 page)

Unmold tartlets baked in one-piece tart pans
while the tartlets are still warm. As soon as the tins are cool enough to handle, slip a long thin needle between the side of the pastry and the fluted side of the tin. This does not mark the crust and the tartlet should pop out readily. If not, repeat the process, inserting the needle in another area.

STORE

The baked crust will keep at room temperature in an airtight container for up to 2 days.

MOISTURE-PROOFING THE BAKED BOTTOM CRUST

EGG WHITE GLAZE
The most effective way to moisture-proof a baked bottom crust is to brush it with a thin coating of egg white. (The yolk would toughen the dough.) The residual heat of the baked crust causes the egg white to dry to a crisp finish. Allow the baked pastry shell to cool on a rack for about 3 minutes before brushing it with lightly beaten egg white so that it isn’t too hot, which would cause the egg white layer to flake off. If the baked pastry shell is no longer hot enough to set the egg white, return it to the oven for 2 to 3 minutes or until the egg white layer is dry and opaque. Half an egg white (1 tablespoon) will be enough to moistureproof a 9-inch pie shell or 9½-inch tart shell.

CHOCOLATE GLAZE
When compatible with the filling, chocolate creates the most moisture-proof glaze of all. Quick-temper the chocolate using any method on page 615. Brush the chocolate onto the bottom and sides of the baked tart or pie shell. Very little is needed. The purpose of the chocolate is to waterproof and provide only a taste of chocolate. Any good-quality bittersweet chocolate will do, but couverture chocolate, with its higher amount of cocoa butter, is ideal, as it creates the thinnest coating. For a 9½-inch tart shell, you will need 1¼ ounces of chocolate (melt 2 ounces to be sure you have enough; any leftover can be stored and remelted). Allow the chocolate-coated tart shell to sit until the chocolate is set (it will lose its shine and dull) or refrigerate it briefly.

FRUIT PRESERVES GLAZE
Fruit glaze also performs beautifully as a moistureproofer for baked dough. Commercial bakeries use Apricoture (see page 638), which has an excellent flavor, very low moisture, and, unlike preserves or jelly, does not need to be sieved. Apricot or seedless raspberry preserves are also effective but they need to be heated and strained. You will need 3 tablespoons of fruit glaze for a 9½-inch tart (6 tablespoons if it is 2 inches high). See page 20 for heating and straining instructions.

SWEET COOKIE TART CRUST

(Pâte Sucrée)

T
his easy-to-make pastry is as tender as a sugar cookie. Most cookie crusts are merely crumbly, but this one manages to maintain a bit of flakiness. It is traditionally baked in a tart pan, but because its edges hold a design so well, it can also function as a container for a pie filling.

Friends who have had problems with this type of crust swear by this recipe. In addition to its many virtues, it is surprisingly versatile. If you increase the sugar, it becomes even more tender and delicate. If you replace the egg yolk and cream with one large egg, it becomes firmer. If you want just a touch of sweetness, the sugar can be reduced to 1 tablespoon.

The fresh ginger variation provides an exciting counterpoint to fruit tarts such
as peach or pear. The coconut variation is a thrilling taste against tropical aromatic fruits such as mango and passion, and it is ideal for coconut ice-cream pie as well.

PASTRY FOR A 9½- OR 1O- BY 1-INCH TART, A 1O- BY 2-INCH TART, A 9-INCH PIE, EIGHT TO TEN 4-INCH TARTLETS, NINE 4- BY ¾-INCH FLAN RINGS OR SEVEN 4¾- BY ¾-INCH OR OR SEVEN 4¾- BY ¾- INCH OR 4- BY 1¼- INCH TARTLETS MAKES: 14 OUNCES/405 GRAMS (ABOUT 1 CUPS)
INGREDIENTS	MEASURE	WEIGHT
VOLUME	OUNCES	GRAMS
*If using a pie pan, replace the yolk and cream with 1 whole egg, lightly beaten.
unsalted butter, cold, cut into 1-inch cubes	8 tablespoons	4 ounces	113 grams
sugar, preferably superfine	¼ cup	1.75 ounces	50 grams
bleached all-purpose flour	1½ scant cups (dip and sweep method)	7 ounces	200 grams
salt	teaspoon	•	•
1 large egg yolk*	1 tablespoon + ½ teaspoon	0.65 ounce	18.6 grams
heavy cream*	2 tablespoons	1 ounce	28 grams

PREPARING THE PAN

See page 50.

FOOD PROCESSOR METHOD

In a food processor with the metal blade, pulse the butter and sugar about 15 times or until the sugar disappears. Add the flour and salt and pulse again about 15 times or until the butter is no larger than small peas.

In a small bowl, stir together the yolk and cream. Add it to the mixture and pulse just until incorporated, about 8 times. The dough will still be in crumbly pieces. Empty it into a plastic bag and press the dough from the outside just until it holds together.

Remove the dough from the plastic bag and place it on a very large piece of plastic wrap. Using the plastic wrap, knead the dough a few times until the dough becomes one smooth piece. Flatten it into a 6-inch disc.

Wrap the dough well and refrigerate for 30 minutes, or freeze for 10 minutes, until firm enough to pat into the pan or to roll.

HAND METHOD

In a medium bowl, stir together the flour, sugar, and salt. With a pastry cutter or two knives, cut in the cold butter until the mixture resembles coarse meal.

In a small bowl, stir together the yolk and cream. Mix it into the flour mixture until the dough comes together and can be formed into a ball. Flatten it into a 6inch disc.

Wrap the dough well and refrigerate for 30 minutes, or freeze for 10 minutes, until firm enough to pat into the pan or roll.

VARIATIONS

GINGER COOKIE TART CRUST
Add 2 teaspoons (11.4 grams) peeled and grated fresh ginger along with the egg/cream mixture.

COCONUT COOKIE TART CRUST
Use only 1 cup (5.25 ounces/150 grams) of flour; add ¼ cup (1 ounce/30 grams) of flaked unsweetened coconut to the flour and salt. In a food processor, process the flour, salt, and coconut until the coconut is finely grated. Replace the yolk and the cream with ½ egg (½ tablespoons), lightly beaten. (This dough weighs 12.6 ounces/361 grams.) There is no need to grease the tart pan, because the extra oil in the coconut makes the crust release easily.

ROLLING AND BAKING

See pages 50 and 54.

STORE

Refrigerated, up to 1 week; frozen, about 1 year (unbaked).

UNDERSTANDING

If the crust is baked in a tart pan, a small crack often develops just at the stress point where the bottom of the pan meets the sides. This is of no consequence since it is covered by the filling, and it could be prevented if egg white were used in place of the heavy cream (i.e., 1 whole egg in place of the yolk and heavy cream), but this would result in a slightly less tender pastry. In a pie pan, however, the stress point is just below the border, so the crack would not be covered completely by the filling. It is, therefore, advisable to use the stronger version when lining a pie pan.

Because there is very little water (only the small amount contained in the cream), very little gluten develops, making this a very tender dough that does not shrink. The scraps can be rerolled several times without toughening, but with each rolling, the crust will lose flakiness.

SWEET NUT COOKIE TART CRUST

(Pâte Sucrée)

T
he addition of nuts to this crust not only imparts the flavor of your favorite nut, it also makes it slightly more tender.

PASTRY FOR A 9½- OR 10- BY 1-INCH TART, A 9-INCH PIE, SIX TO SEVEN 4-INCH TARTLETS, SIX 4- BY ¾-INCH FLAN RINGS OR FIVE 4¾- BY ¾-INCH OR 4- BY 1¼-INCH TARTLETS MAKES: 10.75 OUNCES/305 GRAMS (1 GENEROUS CUP)
INGREDIENTS	MEASURE	WEIGHT
VOLUME	OUNCES	GRAMS
*Preferably sliced, as they grate more uniformly, releasing the least oil. Unblanched will give more flavor.
†Use a scant ½ cup for pecans or walnuts.
pecans, walnuts, or almonds*	½ cup*	1.5 ounces	43 grams
sugar, preferably superfine	3 tablespoons	1.3 ounces	37.5 grams
unsalted butter, cold, cut into 1-inch cubes	6 tablespoons	3 ounces	85 grams
bleached all-purpose flour	¾ cup (dip and sweep method)	3.75 ounces	106.5 grams
salt	teaspoon	•	•
1 large egg yolk	1 tablespoon + ½ teaspoon	0.65 ounce	18.6 grams
heavy cream	4 teaspoons	0.66 ounce	19 grams

PASTRY FOR A 9½- OR 10- BY 1-INCH TART, A 10- BY 2-INCH TART, A 9-INCH PIE, EIGHT TO TEN 4-INCH TARTLETS NINE 4- BY ¾-INCH FLAN RINGS OR SEVEN 4¾- BY ¾-INCH OR 4- BY 1¼-INCH TARTLETS MAKES: 14 OUNCES/402 GRAMS (ABOUT 1 CUPS)
INGREDIENTS	MEASURE	WEIGHT
VOLUME	OUNCES	GRAMS
*Use a scant ¾ cup for pecans or walnuts.
pecans, walnuts, or almonds	cup*	2 ounces	57 grams
sugar, preferably superfine	¼ cup	1.75 ounces	50 grams
unsalted butter, cold, cut into 1-inch cubes	8 tablespoons	4 ounces	113 grams
bleached all-purpose flour	1 cup (dip and sweep method)	5 ounces	142 grams
salt	teaspoon	•	•
1 large egg yolk	1 tablespoon + ½ teaspoon 0.65 ounce	18.6 grams
heavy cream	2 tablespoons	1 ounce	28 grams