Pie and Pastry Bible (16 page)

ROLLING SWEET COOKIE TART CRUST

I prefer rolling to pressing the dough into the pan with fingers because it’s faster and gives a head start to making it even. It may tear when you transfer it to a large tart pan, but patching is very easy. Simply press scraps of dough into an empty area, using your fingers.

If the dough has been refrigerated for more than 30 minutes, it will be too cold to roll or press without cracking. It can take as long as 40 minutes at room temperature to become malleable. But if you prefer not to wait, use the coarse side of a box grater to disperse the dough evenly in the pan and then press it into place.

To roll the dough, roll it between lightly floured sheets of plastic wrap to an
-inch-thick circle (1/16 inch thick for small tartlets). It is always best to work quickly so that the dough does not soften. Use a firm, steady pressure to roll the dough into a circle. As the center tends to be the thickest part, roll from the center out. Avoid the edges, as they tend to become thinner than the rest of the dough. (For perfectly even thickness, use one of the sets of rubber rings described on page 671.) Lift away the plastic wrap occasionally and if the dough seems sticky, sprinkle it lightly with flour. If at any point the dough becomes too soft, slip it, still in the plastic wrap, onto a baking sheet large enough to hold it flat and refrigerate or freeze it until firm.

CUTTING SWEET COOKIE TART CRUST

I find it easiest and most precise to cut the dough circle before transferring the dough to the pie or tart pan. (To determine the size, see Measuring the Pan, page 49.) I like to use an expandable flan ring as a guide, because it can expand to the desired diameter and then can be used to cut through the dough. A cardboard template and the tip of a sharp knife also work effectively.

Remove the top sheet of plastic wrap before cutting. Replace it on the cut-out dough, slip the dough onto a baking sheet, and refrigerate it for 5 to 10 minutes, until it is firm but still flexible.

SCRAPS

Scraps can be refrigerated for about 10 minutes or until firm and rerolled immediately, or frozen, unrolled, for future use. Lightly press together the scraps into one piece, wrap it in plastic, flatten it, and place it in a reclosable freezer bag before putting it in the freezer. I have made a tart with well-wrapped frozen two-year-old scraps that still had an excellent flavor and texture. For a full-size tart, defrost as many pieces as needed in the refrigerator, or about 4 hours at room temperature, until malleable. Knead them together and roll the dough to the required size.

TRANSFERRING SWEET COOKIE TART CRUST TO THE PAN

The easiest way to transfer the dough neatly to a 9½- to 10-inch tart pan is to leave it between the two sheets of plastic wrap and invert it over the back of an 8-inch round cake pan so that it covers it evenly. If any cracks develop, smooth them together—or wait until you’ve transferred it to the pan. Peel off the top sheet of plastic wrap. (If the dough sticks to the wrap, refrigerate or freeze it just until it is firm.) Place the bottom of the tart pan evenly centered on top of the dough. Invert the sides of the tart pan over the dough. Then simply invert both pans so that the tart pan is on the bottom and the dough slips into it. Remove the cake pan and the plastic wrap and gently press the dough against the sides of the tart pan. If necessary, allow the dough to soften at room temperature for a few minutes so that it drapes comfortably into the pan.

If you do not have an 8-inch pan, another method of lining the tart pan is to remove the top sheet of plastic wrap from the dough and use the bottom sheet to lift and invert the pastry over the tart pan. Evenly drape the dough into the tart pan, pressing it gently into the convoluted sides. If the plastic wrap sticks, refrigerate or freeze the dough until it is firm enough to be removed easily.

When the tart pan has been lined, the dough should come at least Vs inch above the rim of the pan. It always falls a little during baking. (For 3½-inch or smaller tarts, however, it can be even with the top.) If the dough is not high enough, push it up using your fingers. If it is too high, use scissors to trim it.

Transferring Sweet Cookie Tart Crust to the Pan (cont.)

For small odd-shaped tart pans,
invert the pan over the dough and cut, leaving a border of about ½ inch all around. Press the dough into the pan. With your fingers or a rolling pin, press along the top edge to remove excess dough.

For small flan rings,
use a small sharp knife held parallel to the rim of the ring to trim the dough even with the top of the ring.

For large flan rings,
set the flan ring on a baking sheet. Drape the dough into the flan ring, pressing it gently against the sides. The dough should come about
inch above the rim or ½ inch for a decorative border.

For a pie pan,
create a small decorative edge according to the illustrations on page 13. Do not allow it to extend past the sides of the pan, or it will droop and fall off during baking. If your fingers are warm, dip them occasionally in a bowl of ice water and dry them well. If the edge softens slightly, dip your fingers in flour as you work (a little extra flour will help the edge to hold its shape during baking), but if it becomes very soft, it is best to cover and chill it briefly.

Wrap the dough-lined tart pan(s), pie pan, or flan ring(s) well and refrigerate for at least 6 hours, to make sure the crust falls the least amount possible during baking. When you are ready to bake, remove the plastic wrap and remove any dough on the outside of the tart pan to ensure that the shell will unmold well.

NOTE

Sweet cookie dough does not unmold easily from a one-piece tart pan, so it is always best to use a two-piece tart pan. The smallest two-piece tartlet pans are 4 inches, so if making ones smaller than that, fill them before unmolding to give the sides more support.

BAKING SWEET COOKIE TART CRUST

Because of the relatively short baking time of any baked tart, tart doughs always need to be fully prebaked so that the crust is crisp and slightly crunchy. Tarts are usually baked in a loose-bottomed tart pan or flan ring set on a baking sheet in the center of the oven. The shells should be chilled for at least an hour before baking.

If the dough has been frozen for at least 6 hours (in small flan rings, it only needs to be frozen for 15 minutes) or refrigerated for at least 6 hours before baking, it is not necessary to use weights (known as blind baking), except when using 10- by 2-inch tart pans. (Without weights, the slightly sloping deeper sides of these pans will cause the dough to slip down about ½ inch, making the sides thicker.)

It is not necessary to prick the dough for small tartlets. If the centers puff during baking, press them down lightly with your fingertips. For larger tarts, when the dough starts to puff in places, prick it lightly with a fork.

LINING SWEET COOKIE TART CRUST DOUGH FOR BLIND BAKING

If using parchment, pleat it as necessary to fit the shape of the pan. A round of Teflon-type liner placed on the crust under the parchment will keep it from sticking. Otherwise, a little of the crust always attaches to it. Cup-shaped coffee filters are even easier to use and don’t stick to the dough. Large filters, the kind used for urns, available through commercial equipment outlets, work perfectly for tarts. Small ones, the kind sold in supermarkets, are ideal for tartlets. Fill the filter or parchment with rice or dried beans, making sure they are pushed up well against sides of the filter.

TESTING FOR DONENESS

Plain cookie tart dough
is baked when it turns a pale gold (the edges will be a deeper brown) and feels set but still soft to the touch. These crusts continue hardening while cooling, just the way cookies do.
Chocolate cookie tart dough
will deepen in color but should not start to brown, or it will take on a burnt flavor.

To bake plain sweet cookie tart dough,
preheat the oven for at least 20 minutes before baking.

For 1-inch tiny tartlets,
bake at 350°F for 14 minutes or until the edges start to brown lightly but the center still feels soft to the touch. Remove the tartlets from
the oven and, using the back of a wooden spoon, gently tamp down the centers. Return them to the oven and bake 1 minute more.

For tartlets,
bake at 425°F for 5 minutes. If the centers puff during baking, press them down lightly with your fingertips. Lower the heat to 350°F. and continue baking for 1 to 5 minutes. (If using weights, lift them out with the parchment and continue baking for 2 to 3 minutes.)

For large tarts or pie shells,
bake at 425°F. for 5 minutes. When the dough starts to puffin places, prick it lightly with a fork, then lower the heat to 375°F. and continue baking for 10 to 15 minutes. (If using weights, bake at 425°F. for 5 minutes, lower the heat to 375°F., and bake for 15 to 20 minutes or until set. If not set, the dough will stick more to the parchment. Lift out the weights with the parchment, prick lightly, and continue baking 10 to 15 minutes more.)

To bake chocolate cookie tart dough
for tartlets, bake at 375°F. for about 12 minutes. Check after the first 4 to 5 minutes; if the centers puff during baking, press them down lightly with your fingertips. (If using weights, lift them out with the parchment or filter after 10 minutes and continue baking for 2 to 3 minutes.)

For large tarts,
bake at 400°F. for 5 minutes. When the dough starts to puff in places, prick it lightly with a fork. Lower the heat to 375°F. and bake 12 to 15 minutes longer. (If using weights, bake at 400°F. for 5 minutes, lower the heat to 375°F., and bake for 15 to 20 minutes or until set. If not set, the dough will stick more to the parchment. Lift out the weights with the parchment, prick lightly, and continue baking for 10 to 15 minutes more.)

To cool tarts,
use a large pancake turner to slide the tart onto a wire rack. (If you used a flan ring, leave it on the baking sheet and set it on a rack.)

To unmold large tarts,
it is best generally to leave the pastry in the pan until it is filled and baked or chilled, as the pan provides added support. To unmold, place the tart on top of a canister that is smaller than the opening of the tart pan rim. If the tart has been chilled, wet a towel with hot water and wring it out well. Apply it to the bottom and sides of the tart pan. Press firmly down on both sides of the tart ring. It should slip away easily. If not, apply more heat. (This technique is also sometimes helpful for tarts that have not been chilled.) Then slip the pancake turner between the crust and the bottom of the pan, loosening it all around if necessary, and slide the tart onto a serving plate.