Pie and Pastry Bible (52 page)

LEMON MERINGUE PIE

T
his is many people’s number one pie (myself included). The creamy fresh tartness of the lemon, coupled with the buttery, flaky pie crust and airy sweet meringue, is just one of those perfect things that causes people to sigh with appreciation and delight.

I prefer a filling that is just firm enough to cut cleanly—neither rubbery nor so soft it flows. The consistency is easy to adjust to your own taste: It is a function of the amount of cornstarch you use to thicken the filling.

I love a deep lemon filling and a high billowy meringue, as long as it is not too sweet. The Italian meringue in this recipe has an unusually low amount of sugar and the lightest texture of all meringues, and it does not weep or puddle on sitting.

EQUIPMENT

A 9-inch pie pan

Make the dough (page 22). Roll (see page 8), shape (see page 13), and prebake it (see page 18); while it is still wormy brush it with the egg white (see page 20). Or make the crust (page 66) and press it into the pan (see page 69).

Preheat the oven to 350°F. at least 15 minutes before baking. Set an oven rack at the middle level before prebaking.

MAKE THE FILLING

In a small bowl, lightly whisk the egg yolks.

In a heavy nonreactive saucepan (or double boiler), combine the cornstarch and sugar and gradually whisk in the water until smooth. Cook over low heat, whisking constantly (or occasionally if using the double boiler) until thick, smooth, and translucent, about 5 minutes. (A thermometer will register 190°F.)

Whisk a few spoonfuls of this hot mixture into the egg yolks, then add the yolks to the remaining mixture, whisking constantly until boiling. Remove from the heat and whisk in the salt, lemon zest, lemon juice, and butter until the mixture is smooth. Scrape it into the prepared pie shell. Cover with plastic wrap to keep it hot.

MAKE THE ITALIAN MERINGUE

Have ready a 1-cup heatproof liquid measure by the range.

In a small heavy saucepan, preferably with nonstick lining, stir together the sugar and the water until the sugar is completely moistened. Heat, stirring constantly, until the sugar dissolves and the syrup is bubbling. Stop stirring and turn down the heat to the lowest setting. (If using an electric range, remove the pan from the heat.)

In a mixing bowl, using the whisk beater, beat the egg whites until foamy. Add the cream of tartar and beat until stiff peaks form when the beater is raised slowly.

OVEN TEMPERATURE: 35O°F. • BAKING TIME: 5 MINUTES (PLUS ABOUT 1 MINUTE BROILING) SERVES: 8
INGREDIENTS	MEASURE	WEIGHT
VOLUME	OUNCES	GRAMS
*To make your own superfine sugar, simply place granulated sugar in a food processor with the metal blade and process for a few minutes or until fine.
Basic Flaky Pie Crust for a 9-inch pie (page 22), pre-baked and still warm, or Graham Cracker Crumb Crust (page 66), pressed into the pan		12 ounces	340 grams
½ large egg white, lightly beaten	1 tablespoon	0.5 ounce	15 grams
Filling 8 large eggs, separated yolks (4 egg whites reserved)	scant liquid cup	5.25 ounces	149 grams
cornstarch	½ cup + 1½ tablespoons (dip and sweep method)	3 ounces	85 grams
sugar	1½ cups	10.5 ounces	300 grams
water	2½ liquid cups	20.75 ounces	590 grams
salt	¼ teaspoon	•	•
finely grated lemon zest	1½ tablespoons	•	9 grams
freshly squeezed lemon juice	½ cup	approx. 4.5 ounces	125 grams
unsalted butter	3 tablespoons	1½ ounces	42.5 grams
Light Italian Meringue Topping sugar, preferably superfine*	(6½ cups) ½ cup	• 3.5 ounces	• 100 grams
water	2 tablespoons	1 ounce	30 grams
4 large egg whites (reserved)	½ liquid cup	4.25 ounces	120 grams
cream of tartar	½ teaspoon	•	•
optional: powdered sugar	about 1 tablespoon	•	•

Increase the heat under the syrup and boil until a thermometer registers 236°F. (soft ball stage). Immediately pour the syrup into the glass measure to stop the cooking.

If using an electric hand-held mixer, beat the syrup into the whites in a steady stream, avoiding the beaters to keep the syrup from spinning onto the sides of the bowl. If using a stand mixer, pour a small amount of syrup over the whites with the mixer off. Immediately beat at high speed for 5 seconds. Stop the mixer and add a larger amount of syrup. Beat at high speed for 5 seconds. Continue with the remaining syrup. With the last addition, use a rubber scraper to remove the syrup clinging to the measure. Continue beating on high speed for about 2 minutes or until the outside of the bowl is no longer too hot to touch comfortably.

Spread the meringue on top of the filling, starting from the outside edge and covering the border of the crust about halfway. Use a small metal spatula to make attractive swirls and peaks. If desired, for extra crunch, dust the meringue with powdered sugar.

Bake the pie for 5 minutes. Then turn the oven to broil and brown the meringue for 20 seconds to 1 minute, watching carefully to prevent burning, until the meringue is golden. Cool in a place away from drafts for 2½ to 3 hours.

Serve at room temperature. Cut with a wet knife.

STORE

Uncovered, room temperature, up to 1 day; refrigerated, up to 3 days.

POINTERS FOR SUCCESS

If you measure the cornstarch, dip the cup into it and level it off. If the cornstarch is lightly spooned into the cup, you will have only 2 ounces/60 grams.

For the most stable (one that does not form teardrops or water out) yet lightest meringue topping, it is best to make the Italian meringue, but an uncooked meringue is fine if you are planning to consume the entire pie shortly after preparing it.

TO MAKE A SIMPLE SOFT MERINGUE TOPPING

In a large mixing bowl, beat the egg whites until foamy. Add the cream of tartar and beat at medium speed, gradually adding 2 tablespoons of the sugar, until soft peaks form when the beater is raised slowly. Gradually beat in the remaining sugar and continue beating on high speed until stiff peaks form when the beater is raised. (There will be about 6 cups of meringue.)

TO MAKE A SIMPLE “SAFE” SOFT MERINGUE ACCORDING TO THE EGG BOARD GUIDELINES

It is necessary to use 6 egg whites to arrive at almost the same volume (6 cups) as the Italian meringue. It will be tear-free and light, but a little less so than the Italian meringue or simple soft meringue.

In a large mixer bowl, combine all of the ingredients except the cream of tartar and place over simmering water. Stir constantly with a whisk until a thermometer registers 160°F. Immediately remove the bowl from the heat. Add the cream of tartar and beat on high speed until stiff peaks form when the beater is raised.

To ensure that the bottom of the meringue cooks and will not water out, spread the meringue on top of hot filling. (If necessary, place the pie in the oven for 3 to 5 minutes to reheat the filling.) Bake the pie for 15 minutes for a simple meringue, 20 minutes for a safe meringue (because of the 2 extra whites), or until most of the meringue is golden. (The Italian meringue is baked for 5 minutes only to dry it slightly, to keep it from being too moist. Longer baking would overcook it and cause it to deflate.)

UNDERSTANDING

Compared to lemon curd, the lemon filling of this classic pie is lighter in texture and less intense, though still delightfully lemony.

The acidity of the lemon juice can break down the cornstarch if it is added before the swelling and thickening effect has taken place.

When the yolks are added to the hot thickened cornstarch mixture, they reach a temperature of 160°F., which destroys the amylase enzyme and keeps them from watering out.

Egg whites coagulate at 144° to 149°F., but adding sugar and diluting the whites with a little water raises the coagulation temperature, making it possible to heat the whites to 1610°F. safely. Adding the acidic cream of tartar after heating also delays the coagulation process.

The Italian meringue does not “weep” on the bottom because it is fully cooked to 236°F. (Uncooked meringue only reaches about 115°F. when baked for 15 minutes, but would shrink if baked longer.)

The simple meringues do not water out because the hot filling cooks the bottom. None of the meringues beads or forms tears because the sugar dissolves fully before baking.

“KEY LIME” PIE

T
his simple pie has demanded more of my attention than many more complex ones. I have tried countless experiments with the filling, crust, and topping and this, my absolute final version, suits my taste perfectly.