Sunday Brunch (12 page)

2. Using kitchen scissors, trim away and discard the membranes from six of the halves, discarding the other halves. If necessary, cut very thin slices of rind from the bottoms so that the grapefruit halves are not wobbly. Mound the grapefruit segments in the cleaned halves.

3. Combine the grapefruit juice, wine, and sugar in a small, heavy saucepan set over medium-high heat. Stir until the sugar has dissolved. Cook, stirring often, until the mixture has reduced by half and is slightly syrupy, 5 to 8 minutes. Cool to room temperature and then drizzle the syrup over the segments in each grapefruit half. (Grapefruit cups can be prepared 1 day ahead; cover and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature before serving.)

4. Garnish the center of each grapefruit cup with a mint sprig and serve.

A
lthough breakfast side dishes are meant to play supporting roles, they are often as important as their main-course counterparts. They round out menus, bringing all the elements together as a whole. Many cooks fall back on predictable brunch extras like bacon, sausages, corned beef hash, and home fries, but there is a host of more creative options. In this chapter, many old standbys get modern updates from assertive seasonings and unexpected ingredient pairings.

Bacon, the quintessential favorite, gets elevated to new heights when it is baked rather than fried, and glazed with an intriguing mix of brown sugar and grainy mustard. All manner of seafood make splendid accompaniments at the brunch table. For an easy, bite-size interpretation of an ever-popular dish, try the Heavenly Little Crab Cakes, which are coated in panko crumbs for extra crispness, scented with citrus, and baked in small muffin tins.

New versions of hash will surprise even your most sophisticated diners, such as one prepared with smoked salmon, fennel, and potatoes and another with sausage, apples, and sage. For new twists on the perennial side of potatoes, there are skillet potatoes with mushrooms and pancetta, and hash browns made from roasted sweet potatoes. Top or pair any with a fried or poached egg for breakfast bliss.

Far from being afterthoughts, these distinctive sides could easily steal the spotlight at your next brunch. Put them at the top of the list when you start to plan your menu.

Roasted Tomatoes on the Vine

For this colorful side dish, I like to use Campari tomatoes, which are about 2 in/5 cm in diameter and usually sold still on the vine. They are tossed in olive oil and dried herbs, and then popped in the oven to roast for less than 15 minutes. Glistening red with slightly puckered skins, they make a delicious garnish for scrambled, fried, or poached eggs.

Serves 4

PREP TIME:

5 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME:

20 minutes

MAKE AHEAD:

No

2 tbsp olive oil, plus more for the baking dish

½ tsp dried crushed rosemary (see
cooking tip
)

½ tsp dried thyme

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 lb/455 g Campari tomatoes, preferably on the vine (see
market note
)

MARKET NOTE:

Campari tomatoes are larger than cherry tomatoes, but smaller than Roma (plum) tomatoes. Deep red in color and often still attached to the vine, they are typically sold packaged in plastic or paper boxes. They are available in most grocery stores year-round.

1. Arrange an oven rack at center position and preheat the oven to 425 degrees F/220 degrees C/gas 7. Lightly grease a medium baking dish with olive oil.

2. In a small bowl, whisk together the 2 tbsp olive oil, rosemary, thyme, ¼ tsp salt, and ¼ tsp pepper. Place the tomatoes in the prepared baking dish and pour the olive oil mixture over them.

3. Roast the tomatoes until they are hot and just starting to shrink, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from the oven and place on a serving platter. Serve warm.

Roasted Sweet Potato Hash Browns

In this modern take on hash browns, diced sweet potatoes are first roasted to intensify their sweetness, then browned in a hot frying pan, and finally combined with sautéed bacon, red onions, rosemary, and garlic. The three primary ingredients—sweet potatoes, red onions, and bacon—are each easily distinguishable yet complementary to one another.

Serves 4 to 6

PREP TIME:

20 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME:

50 minutes

MAKE AHEAD:

Partially

1 ½ lb/690 g sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-in/12-mm dice

1 ½ tbsp olive oil

2 tsp dried crushed rosemary (see
cooking tip
)

Kosher salt

Coarsely ground pepper

5 thick bacon slices (5½
OZ
/160 g), cut in 1 ½-in/4-cm pieces

2 cups/225 g thinly sliced red onion (1 large onion, halved lengthwise and sliced)

2 tsp minced garlic

1 tbsp chopped fresh rosemary, plus a sprig or two for garnish

2 tbsp grated Parmesan cheese (optional)

1. Arrange a rack at center position and preheat the oven to 400 degrees F/200 degrees C/gas 6. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with foil and set aside.

2. Spread the sweet potatoes on the prepared baking sheet. Drizzle with the olive oil and sprinkle the dried rosemary over them. Season with salt and pepper, and then toss to coat evenly.

3. Roast until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a knife, about 20 minutes, stirring after 10 minutes. Remove from the oven when done. (The potatoes can be prepared 2 hours ahead; leave loosely covered with foil at room temperature.)

4. While the potatoes are in the oven, cook the bacon in a large, heavy frying pan over medium-low heat until crisp. Drain on paper towels. Remove all but 1 tbsp of the drippings from the frying pan; reserve the remaining drippings. Place the frying pan on medium to medium-low heat and add the onion. Cook, stirring often, until lightly browned, about 6 minutes. Add the garlic and cook just until fragrant, about 1 minute more.

5. Remove the onion and garlic from the pan. Add 1 to 2 tbsp of the reserved bacon drippings back to the hot frying pan. Add the sweet potatoes and quickly sauté until crisp and nicely browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Return the onion, garlic, and bacon pieces to the frying pan and stir 1 minute more. Season with fresh rosemary, ½ tsp salt, and 1 tsp pepper. For a slightly richer taste, toss the mixture with the Parmesan. Serve warm, garnished with the rosemary sprigs.

Skillet-Roasted Potatoes with Mushrooms and Pancetta

A single pan is all you need to prepare this glorious dish. Baby potatoes, brown mushrooms, and pancetta are sautéed, then roasted, and finally served in one large, heavy frying pan. The golden potatoes and tender mushrooms, seasoned with thyme and garlic, make a mouthwatering garnish to fried, poached, or scrambled eggs.

Serves 4

PREP TIME:

15 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME:

45 minutes

MAKE AHEAD:

No

4
OZ
/115 g pancetta, cut into ¼-in/6-mm cubes (see
market note
)

3 tbsp olive oil, plus more if necessary

1 lb/455 g baby Yukon gold potatoes, unpeeled, scrubbed, and quartered

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

10
OZ
/280 g cremini or brown mushrooms, quartered

6 garlic cloves, peeled and halved crosswise

2 tsp dried thyme

Several fresh thyme sprigs for garnish (optional)

MARKET NOTE:

If buying pancetta from a deli, ask for it to be cut thickly into ¼-in/6-mm slices. Prepackaged pancetta is often thinly sliced.

1. Arrange a rack at center position and preheat oven to 400 degrees F/200 degrees C/gas 6.

2. In a large, heavy, ovenproof frying pan (preferably cast iron) set over medium heat, sauté the pancetta until golden and crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon to drain on paper towels.

3. Remove all but 2 tbsp of the drippings from the pan. (If you don’t have 2 tbsp, add olive oil to make this amount.) When hot, add the potatoes and sauté, stirring, until they start to take on a little color, 5 to 7 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and place the frying pan in the oven. Roast for 15 minutes.

4. Remove the frying pan from the oven and add the mushrooms, garlic, and the 3 tbsp olive oil. Add the dried thyme and season with more salt and pepper. Toss to coat well.

5. Return the pan to the oven and roast until the potatoes are golden brown and tender and the mushrooms are softened, 15 minutes more. Remove the frying pan from the oven and stir in the reserved pancetta. If desired, garnish the center of the pan with fresh thyme sprigs. Serve warm.

Southern Cheese Grits

Grits, that staple of Southern cooking, were a frequent side dish at morning meals when I was growing up in Memphis. On weekdays, my mother cooked grits in simmering water until they thickened into a creamy porridge, and served them with pats of butter. For special occasions she embellished them with cheeses and seasonings, and spooned them into a casserole to bake, as in this recipe. Cheddar and Parmesan cheeses enrich these grits and add to their smoothness, while cayenne and black pepper provide a bit of heat. Easy to prepare ahead, these grits are a stellar accompaniment to scrambled or poached eggs.

Serves 4 to 6

PREP TIME:

10 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME:

55 minutes

MAKE AHEAD:

Partially

Unsalted butter, for the baking dish

4 cups/960 ml water

1 cup/170 g old-fashioned (not instant or quick) grits (see
cooking tip
)

Salt

¾ cup/60 g grated sharp white cheddar cheese

½ cup/60 g grated Parmesan cheese

½ tsp freshly ground black pepper

⅓ tsp cayenne pepper

COOKING TIP:

If using stone-ground grits, be sure to follow the package directions as they may call for a different amount of water and a longer cooking time.

1. Butter a shallow, 2-qt/2-L oven-to-table baking dish.

2. Bring the water to a boil in a large, heavy saucepan (with a lid) set over medium-high heat. Pour the grits in slowly. Add ¾ tsp salt and whisk well.

3. When the mixture comes to a simmer, reduce the heat to low and cover the pan. Cook the grits at a gentle simmer, stirring every 3 to 4 minutes, so they do not stick to the bottom of the pan. Cook until the grits have thickened, about 15 minutes or according to package directions.

4. Remove the grits from the heat and stir in ½ cup/40 g of the cheddar and all of the Parmesan. Add the black pepper and cayenne and season with more salt, if needed. Spread the grits in an even layer in the prepared pan and sprinkle the remaining ¼ cup/20 g cheddar over the top. (The grits can be prepared 1 day ahead; cool, cover, and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature before baking.)

5. Arrange a rack at center position and preheat the oven to 350 degrees F/180 degrees C/gas 4. Bake the grits until they are hot and the cheese has melted on top, 25 minutes. If you would like to brown the cheese, arrange an oven rack 4 to 5 in/10 to 12 cm from the broiler and broil until the cheese starts to brown lightly, 2 to 3 minutes. Serve immediately.