The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (118 page)

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

We wanted to add flavor to cauliflower without drowning it in a heavy blanket of cheese sauce, so we developed a roasted cauliflower recipe that gave us cauliflower with a golden, nutty exterior and sweet interior. We discovered that steaming (in a covered sheet pan) followed by roasting produced nicely caramelized cauliflower with a creamy texture. Though the cauliflower is excellent on its own, we also developed some simple sauces to dress it up.

See “CUTTING CAULIFLOWER FOR ROASTING” illustration that follows recipe.

SERVES 4 TO 6

This dish stands well on its own, drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil, but it can also be prepared with a sauce (recipes follow).

1.
Adjust oven rack to lowest position and heat oven to 475 degrees. Trim outer leaves off cauliflower and cut stem flush with bottom. Cut head into 8 equal wedges. Place wedges cut side down on foil- or parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons oil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Gently rub seasonings and oil into cauliflower. Gently flip cauliflower and repeat on second cut side with remaining 2 tablespoons oil, salt, and pepper.

2.
Cover baking sheet tightly with foil and cook for 10 minutes. Remove foil and continue to roast until bottoms of cauliflower pieces are golden, 8 to 12 minutes. Remove baking sheet from oven, and, using spatula, carefully flip wedges. Return baking sheet to oven and continue to roast until cauliflower is golden all over, 8 to 12 minutes longer. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve immediately.

Stir 2 teaspoons curry powder or chili powder into the oil before seasoning the cauliflower in step 1.

MAKES ENOUGH FOR 1 RECIPE
ROASTED CAULIFLOWER

If using this sauce, use vegetable oil to roast the cauliflower instead of olive oil.

Heat oil in small skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add shallot and cook until softened, about 2 minutes. Stir in curry powder and pepper flakes; cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Remove from heat and whisk in water, yogurt, cilantro, lime juice, and salt and pepper to taste. Drizzle sauce over roasted cauliflower before serving.

MAKES ENOUGH FOR 1 RECIPE
ROASTED CAULIFLOWER

If using this sauce, use vegetable oil to roast the cauliflower instead of olive oil.

Heat oil in 8-inch skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add ginger and garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Reduce heat to medium-low and add water, soy sauce, mirin, and vinegar. Simmer until slightly syrupy, 4 to 6 minutes. Drizzle sauce and sesame oil over roasted cauliflower and garnish with scallion before serving.

MAKES ENOUGH FOR 1 RECIPE
ROASTED CAULIFLOWER

Both regular and golden raisins work well here.

Heat oil in 8-inch skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add raisins and garlic and cook, stirring constantly, until garlic is fragrant, about 1 minute. Reduce heat to medium and add water, vinegar, and honey. Simmer until lightly syrupy, 4 to 6 minutes. Stir in almonds, parsley, and salt and pepper to taste. Drizzle sauce over roasted cauliflower and garnish with chives before serving.

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

Cauliflower gratin often falls short, with the cauliflower either undercooked or overcooked and the sauce a gluey mass that manages to swamp the bread-crumb topping. We wanted tender cauliflower florets, a lightly thickened sauce, and buttery, crisp crumbs. We parcooked the florets before adding them to the gratin to ensure they were perfectly cooked through. Then we made a Mornay sauce with shallots, garlic, nutmeg, cayenne, and Parmesan cheese. Using heavy cream instead of the usual milk gave us a cleaner flavor because it required less roux to thicken up to the right consistency. Freshly baked bread crumbs gave our gratin a perfectly toasted crust. From there, we decided to come up with a broccoli variation. The broccoli required less blanching time and a lighter sauce made with chicken broth and heavy cream. We also strongly preferred cheddar to Parmesan in this version.

SERVES 6

Gruyère or cheddar can be used in place of the Parmesan.

TOPPING

FILLING

1. FOR THE TOPPING:
Pulse bread, butter, salt, and pepper in food processor until mixture resembles coarse crumbs, about 10 pulses; set aside.

2. FOR THE FILLING:
Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in Dutch oven over high heat. Add cauliflower and 1 tablespoon salt and cook until just tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Drain cauliflower in colander and rinse under cold water until no longer hot. Leave cauliflower in colander to drain while preparing sauce.

3.
Melt butter in 12-inch skillet over medium heat, add shallot, and cook until softened, about 2 minutes. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in flour until combined, about 1 minute. Whisk in cream and bring to boil. Stir in ¹⁄
₂
cup Parmesan, thyme, remaining ¹⁄
₄
teaspoon salt, pepper, nutmeg, and cayenne until incorporated. Off heat, gently stir in cauliflower until evenly combined. Transfer mixture to 11 by 7-inch (2-quart) gratin dish. Sprinkle remaining 2 tablespoons Parmesan evenly over surface, then sprinkle evenly with bread-crumb topping. Bake until golden brown and sauce is bubbling around edges, 10 to 12 minutes. Serve immediately.

TO MAKE AHEAD:
Topping and cauliflower can be prepared and stored at room temperature for up to 2 hours. Don’t prepare sauce or bake gratin until just before serving.

Add 1 pound leeks, white and light green parts only, halved lengthwise, sliced ¹⁄
₄
-inch thick, and washed thoroughly, to skillet with shallot in step 3 and increase cooking time to about 4 minutes, until leeks are softened. Substitute 2 ounces Gruyère cheese, grated (¹⁄
₂
cup), plus 2 tablespoons, for the Parmesan.

Add 6 ounces ham steak, cut into ¹⁄
₂
-inch cubes, to skillet with shallot in step 3. Substitute 2 ounces cheddar cheese, grated (¹⁄
₂
cup), plus 2 tablespoons, for the Parmesan.