The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (117 page)
Read The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook Online
Authors: The Editors at America's Test Kitchen
Tags: #Cooking
SERVES 4
When selecting turnips, choose the smallest available (about the size of plums), as they tend to be less fibrous and less bitter than their larger counterparts. Do not substitute yellow turnips for the white turnips called for in this recipe.
1¹⁄ | tablespoons unsalted butter |
1 | pound white turnips, peeled and cut into ³⁄ |
3 | carrots, peeled, tapered ends sliced ¹⁄ |
²⁄ | cup low-sodium chicken broth or vegetable broth |
1¹⁄ | tablespoons packed brown sugar |
1 | teaspoon fresh thyme |
1 | teaspoon grated lemon zest plus 1 teaspoon juice |
¹⁄ | teaspoon salt |
¹⁄ | teaspoon pepper |
1.
Melt butter in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add turnips and carrots in even layer and cook, without stirring, until browned, about 4 minutes. Stir and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until well browned on all sides, about 4 minutes longer. Add broth, sugar, thyme, lemon zest, salt, and pepper. Cover skillet, reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer until vegetables are just tender (vegetables will give only slight resistance when poked with paring knife), about 8 minutes.
2.
Uncover, increase heat to high, and cook, stirring frequently, until liquid in skillet reduces to glaze, about 1 minute. Stir in lemon juice and serve immediately.
STORING STRATEGY FOR CARROTS
In tests, we’ve found carrots with green tops still attached have better flavor than those sold already trimmed. But what’s the best way to store them? Since the vegetable will continue to feed the leafy tops in storage, should you remove the tops when you get home from the market? We purchased several bunches of carrots, left the tops intact on half, and removed the tops from the other half. We then stored the carrots in our refrigerator’s crisper drawer for two weeks. When we examined the samples, those stored with their tops attached were extremely limp, indicating moisture loss. But to our surprise, the trimmed carrots fared only slightly better.
Clearly, we needed to reevaluate our storage method. We repeated the test, this time placing both trimmed and untrimmed batches in open zipper-lock bags—a setup that trapped most of their moisture but allowed some to escape. After two weeks, the carrots with their tops on had still softened significantly, while the trimmed ones were just as firm and sweet-tasting as they had been two weeks prior.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Roasting carrots draws out their natural sugars and intensifies their flavor—if you can prevent them from coming out dry, shriveled, and jerkylike. Cutting the carrots into large batons about ¹⁄
2
inch thick gave us evenly cooked results with the best browning, and precooking the carrots before roasting kept their moisture in and minimized withering. We avoided dirtying a second pan by precooking the carrots (which we’d buttered and seasoned) right on the baking sheet, covered with foil. Then when the carrots were tender, we uncovered the baking sheet and returned it to the oven, where we roasted the carrots until their surface moisture evaporated and they took on nut-brown caramelized streaks.
SERVES 4 TO 6
While cutting the carrots into uniformly sized pieces is key for even cooking, it’s the large size of the pieces that makes the recipe work so make sure not to cut them too small.
1¹⁄ | pounds carrots, peeled |
2 | tablespoons unsalted butter, melted |
Salt and pepper |
1.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 425 degrees. Cut the carrots in half crosswise, then into halves or quarters lengthwise if necessary to create uniformly sized pieces. In large bowl, combine carrots with butter, ¹⁄
2
teaspoon salt, and ¹⁄
4
teaspoon pepper and toss to coat. Transfer carrots to foil- or parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet and spread in single layer.
2.
Cover baking sheet tightly with foil and cook for 15 minutes. Remove foil and continue to cook, stirring twice, until carrots are well browned and tender, 30 to 35 minutes. Transfer to serving platter, season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve.
Reduce amount of carrots to 1 pound. Add 1 small fennel bulb, stalks discarded, halved, cored, and sliced ¹⁄
2
inch thick, to bowl with carrots and roast as directed. Toss vegetables with ¹⁄
4
cup toasted sliced almonds, 2 teaspoons chopped fresh parsley, and 1 teaspoon lemon juice before serving.
Reduce amount of carrots to 1 pound. Add 8 ounces peeled parsnips and 1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary to bowl with carrots and roast as directed. Toss vegetables with 2 teaspoons chopped fresh parsley before serving.
Reduce amount of carrots to 1 pound. Add 6 shallots, peeled and halved lengthwise, and 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme to bowl with carrots and roast as directed. Toss vegetables with 1 teaspoon lemon juice before serving.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
We wanted a quick method for properly cooking this often-overcooked vegetable, and we also wanted to come up with a few imaginative, easy ways to flavor it. We started by nailing down a “cook first, flavor later” option. Boiling caused the cauliflower to taste watery, but steaming proved an easy method for bringing out the vegetable’s fresh, sweet taste. Seven to eight minutes yielded evenly cooked florets with clean, bright flavor, and once the cauliflower was steamed, it was easy to add the flavorings. For a “flavor while cooking” technique, we settled on a combination of sautéing and braising, since braising alone took too long and resulted in soggy cauliflower. Sautéing concentrated its flavor, then we added liquid and flavorings to the pan and cooked the cauliflower, covered, just until it was done.
SERVES 4
Steamed cauliflower is best complemented by mild seasonings or the simple flavors of the recipes that follow.
1 | head cauliflower (2 pounds), cored and cut into 1-inch florets |
Fit large saucepan with steamer basket. Add water, keeping level below basket. Bring water to boil, add cauliflower florets, reduce heat to medium, and cover. Steam until florets are tender but still offer some resistance when poked with paring knife, 7 to 8 minutes. Remove cauliflower from basket and serve.
SERVES 4
Crumble the hard-cooked egg by pressing it through a sieve.
2 | tablespoons unsalted butter |
3 | tablespoons dry bread crumbs |
1 | recipe |
1 | FOOLPROOF HARD-COOKED EGG |
2 | tablespoons minced fresh parsley |
2 | tablespoons capers, rinsed |
1¹⁄ | tablespoons lemon juice |
Salt and pepper |
Melt butter in 12-inch skillet over medium heat, add bread crumbs, and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add cauliflower and cook until heated through, about 1 minute. Add egg, parsley, capers, and lemon juice, and toss lightly to distribute. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve immediately.
SERVES 4
Mustard adds a great bright punch to this dressing.
2 | tablespoons minced fresh dill |
¹⁄ | shallot, minced |
2 | tablespoons olive oil |
1 | tablespoon red wine vinegar |
1 | tablespoon lemon juice |
1 | teaspoon Dijon mustard |
¹⁄ | cup walnuts, toasted and chopped |
1 | recipe |
Salt and pepper |
Whisk dill, shallot, oil, vinegar, lemon juice, and mustard together in small bowl. Toss dressing immediately with walnuts and warm cauliflower. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve.
SERVES 4
The stronger flavor of browned cauliflower stands up well to bolder, more complex flavor combinations, such as these Asian flavorings.
1¹⁄ | tablespoons vegetable oil |
1 | head cauliflower (2 pounds), cored and cut into 1-inch florets |
2 | tablespoons grated fresh ginger |
2 | garlic cloves, minced |
1 | teaspoon toasted sesame oil |
¹⁄ | cup water |
2 | tablespoons soy sauce |
2 | tablespoons rice vinegar |
1 | tablespoon dry sherry |
2 | scallions, minced |
Pepper |
1.
Heat vegetable oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add cauliflower and cook, stirring occasionally, until beginning to brown, 6 to 7 minutes.
2.
Clear center of skillet and add ginger, garlic, and sesame oil. Cook, mashing mixture into pan, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir ginger mixture into cauliflower and cook 30 seconds more. Reduce heat to low and add water, soy sauce, vinegar, and sherry. Cover and cook until florets are tender but still offer some resistance when poked with paring knife, 4 to 5 minutes. Add scallions and toss lightly to distribute. Season with pepper to taste and serve immediately.
SERVES 4
Cooking the spices for a minute or two removes their raw edge and allows their flavors to deepen.
1¹⁄ | tablespoons canola oil |
1 | head cauliflower (2 pounds), cored and cut into 1-inch florets |
¹⁄ | onion, sliced thin |
1 | teaspoon ground cumin |
1 | teaspoon ground coriander |
1 | teaspoon ground turmeric |
¹⁄ | teaspoon red pepper flakes |
¹⁄ | cup plain yogurt |
¹⁄ | cup water |
1 | tablespoon lime juice |
¹⁄ | cup frozen green peas, thawed (optional) |
¹⁄ | cup chopped fresh cilantro |
Salt and pepper |
1.
Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add cauliflower and cook, stirring occasionally, until beginning to soften, 2 to 3 minutes. Add onion and continue cooking until florets begin to brown and onion softens, about 4 minutes longer.
2.
Stir in cumin, coriander, turmeric, and pepper flakes and cook until spices begin to toast and are fragrant, about 1 to 2 minutes. Reduce heat to low and add yogurt, water, and lime juice. Cover and cook until flavors meld, about 4 minutes. Add peas, if using, and cilantro and toss to distribute. Cover and cook until florets are fully tender but offer some resistance when poked with paring knife, about 2 minutes more. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve immediately.