The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (116 page)
Read The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook Online
Authors: The Editors at America's Test Kitchen
Tags: #Cooking
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Some people prefer to eat broccoli rabe in its naturally bitter state, but for others, that bitterness is overwhelming. We wanted to develop a quick and dependable method of cooking this aggressive vegetable that would deliver less bitterness and a rounder, more balanced flavor. We found that blanching the rabe in a large amount of salted water tamed its bitterness. We sautéed the blanched rabe with ingredients that complemented its strong flavor, such as garlic, red pepper flakes, and sun-dried tomatoes.
SERVES 4
Using a salad spinner makes easy work of drying the cooled blanched broccoli rabe. You can reduce the amount of red pepper flakes if you prefer to make this dish less spicy.
14 | ounces broccoli rabe, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces |
Salt | |
2 | tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil |
3 | garlic cloves, minced |
¹⁄ | teaspoon red pepper flakes |
1.
Fill large bowl with ice water and set aside. Bring 3 quarts water to boil in large saucepan. Stir in broccoli rabe and 2 teaspoons salt and cook until rabe is wilted and tender, about 2¹⁄
2
minutes. Drain rabe, then transfer to bowl of ice water. Drain again; squeeze well to dry.
2.
Heat oil, garlic, and pepper flakes in 10-inch skillet over medium heat until garlic begins to sizzle, about 3 to 4 minutes. Increase heat to medium high, add broccoli rabe, and cook, stirring to coat with oil, until heated through, about 1 minute. Season with salt to taste and serve immediately.
Add ¹⁄
4
cup oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, cut into thin strips, along with garlic and red pepper flakes. Add 3 tablespoons toasted pine nuts to skillet along with broccoli rabe.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
In our search for a fuss-free cooking method that would produce tender, not-too-bitter Brussels sprouts that retained an attractive green hue, braising won out. Our initial test was performed using water and since it was so successful, we tried braising in other liquids as well. In the end, the tastiest results came from braising the Brussels sprouts in heavy cream, a classic French technique for cooking vegetables.
SERVES 2 TO 4
When buying Brussels sprouts, choose those with small, tight heads, no more than 1¹⁄
2
inches in diameter. Larger sprouts can often be trimmed of loose leaves along the stem and still be quite good, but they cook best when cut in half. Serve these tender Brussels sprouts seasoned simply with ground black pepper and butter.
1 | pound Brussels sprouts, trimmed |
¹⁄ | teaspoon salt |
Bring sprouts, ¹⁄
2
cup water, and salt to boil in 2-quart saucepan over medium-high heat. Lower heat, cover, and simmer, shaking pan once or twice to redistribute sprouts, until knife tip inserted in center of sprout meets no resistance, 8 to 10 minutes. Drain well and serve.
SERVES 4
This rich dish is perfect for the holidays. Don’t drain the sprouts after braising; the cream reduces to form a sauce.
1 | pound Brussels sprouts, trimmed |
1 | cup heavy cream |
¹⁄ | teaspoon salt |
Pinch fresh ground nutmeg | |
Pepper |
Bring sprouts, cream, and salt to boil in 2-quart saucepan over medium-high heat. Lower heat, cover, and simmer, shaking pan once or twice to redistribute sprouts, until knife tip inserted in center of sprout meets no resistance, 10 to 12 minutes. Season with nutmeg and pepper to taste and serve.
SERVES 4 TO 6
If chestnuts are unavailable, substitute ¹⁄
2
cup toasted chopped hazelnuts.
1 | pound Brussels sprouts, trimmed |
Salt and pepper | |
3 | tablespoons unsalted butter |
1 | tablespoon sugar |
1 | (16-ounce) can peeled chestnuts in water, drained |
1.
Bring sprouts, ¹⁄
2
cup water, and ¹⁄
2
teaspoon salt to boil in 2-quart saucepan over medium-high heat. Lower heat, cover, and simmer, shaking pan once or twice to redistribute sprouts, until knife tip inserted in center of sprout meets no resistance, 8 to 10 minutes. Drain well, cut into quarters, and set aside.
2.
Heat 2 tablespoons butter and sugar in 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat until butter melts and sugar dissolves. Stir in chestnuts, turn heat to low, and cook, stirring occasionally, until chestnuts are glazed, about 3 minutes.
3.
Add remaining 1 tablespoon butter and sprouts and cook, stirring occasionally, until heated through, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve.
SERVES 4
Garlic pairs especially well with Brussels sprouts.
1 | pound Brussels sprouts, trimmed |
Salt and pepper | |
2 | tablespoons olive oil |
¹⁄ | cup pine nuts |
3 | garlic cloves, minced |
1.
Bring sprouts, ¹⁄
2
cup water, and ¹⁄
2
teaspoon salt to boil in 2-quart saucepan over medium-high heat. Lower heat, cover, and simmer, shaking pan once or twice to redistribute sprouts, until knife tip inserted in center of sprout meets no resistance, 8 to 10 minutes. Drain well and set aside.
2.
Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add pine nuts and cook, stirring frequently, until nuts begin to brown, about 2 minutes. Add garlic and cook until softened, about 1 minute. Stir in sprouts and cook, stirring constantly, until heated through, 2 to 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
For well-seasoned carrots with a glossy, clingy, yet modest glaze, we started by slicing the carrots on the bias, which lent visual appeal without requiring much work. Most glazed carrot recipes start by steaming, parboiling, or blanching the carrots prior to glazing. To make glazed carrots a one-pot operation, we steamed them directly in the skillet, and we used chicken broth rather than water (along with some salt and sugar) for fuller flavor. When the carrots were almost tender, we removed the lid and turned up the heat to reduce the cooking liquid. Then we added butter and a bit more sugar, and finally finished with a sprinkling of fresh lemon juice and a bit of black pepper to give the dish sparkle.
SERVES 4
Glazed carrots are a good accompaniment to roasts of any kind—beef, pork, lamb, or poultry. A nonstick skillet is easier to clean, but this recipe can be prepared in any 12-inch skillet with a cover.
1 | pound carrots, peeled and sliced ¹⁄ |
¹⁄ | cup low-sodium chicken broth |
3 | tablespoons sugar |
¹⁄ | teaspoon salt |
1 | tablespoon unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces |
2 | teaspoons lemon juice |
Pepper |
1.
Bring carrots, broth, 1 tablespoon sugar, and salt to boil, covered, in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium and simmer, stirring occasionally, until carrots are almost tender when poked with paring knife, about 5 minutes. Uncover, increase heat to high, and simmer rapidly, stirring occasionally, until liquid is reduced to about 2 tablespoons, 1 to 2 minutes.
2.
Add butter and remaining 2 tablespoons sugar to skillet, toss carrots to coat, and cook, stirring frequently, until carrots are completely tender and glaze is light gold, about 3 minutes. Off heat, add lemon juice and toss to coat. Transfer carrots to serving dish, scraping glaze from pan. Season with pepper to taste and serve immediately.
Add one 1-inch piece ginger, peeled and sliced into ¹⁄
4
-inch-thick rounds, to skillet along with carrots and 1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary along with butter. Discard ginger pieces before serving.
Lightly toasting curry powder in a warm, dry skillet brings forth its full flavor.
Toast ¹⁄
4
cup sliced almonds in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until fragrant and lightly browned, about 5 minutes; transfer to small bowl and set aside. Off heat, sprinkle 1¹⁄
2
teaspoons curry powder in skillet; stir until fragrant, about 2 seconds. Add carrots, broth, 1 tablespoon sugar, and salt, to skillet along with curry powder. Add ¹⁄
4
cup currants along with butter and remaining 2 tablespoons sugar; add toasted almonds along with lemon juice.
Substitute equal 3 tablespoons honey for sugar and add ¹⁄
2
teaspoon minced fresh thyme and ¹⁄
2
teaspoon grated lemon zest along with butter.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Winter root vegetables are usually cooked in a way that masks their naturally bitter, earthy, and sweet flavors. We wanted to create turnips and carrots with nicely browned exteriors and tender, creamy interiors, all accented with a lightly sweetened glaze. We started by cutting the vegetables into large pieces of equal size for even cooking. Then, by caramelizing the vegetables in butter and simmering them in a combination of broth, seasonings, and a small amount of brown sugar, we created tender, but not mushy, vegetables with great flavor and browning. A little lemon zest added a nice complementary brightness, and from there it was easy to create a glaze by quickly reducing the remaining liquid.