The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (135 page)
Read The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook Online
Authors: The Editors at America's Test Kitchen
Tags: #Cooking
SWEET POTATO OR YAM?
You often hear “yam” and “sweet potato” used interchangeably, but they actually belong to completely different botanical families. Yams, generally sold in Latin and Asian markets, are often sold in chunks (they can grow to be several feet long) and can be found in dozens of varieties, with flesh ranging from white to light yellow to pink, and skin from off-white to brown. They all have very starchy flesh. Sweet potatoes are also found in several varieties and can have firm or soft flesh, but it’s the soft varieties that have in the past been mislabeled as “yams,” and the confusion continues to this day. In an attempt to remedy this, the U. S. Department of Agriculture now requires labels with the term “yam” to be accompanied by the term “sweet potato” when appropriate. We typically buy the conventional sweet potato, a longish, knobby tuber with dark, orangey-brown skin and vivid flesh that cooks up moist and sweet. The buttery sweet Beauregard is our favorite variety.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
After what seems like eons in the oven, acorn squash often lands on the table with little flavor and a dry, grainy texture. We wanted perfectly cooked squash with a sweet, nutty flavor and moist flesh—without taking hours. Microwaving turned out to be the winning cooking method, resulting in squash that was tender and silky, with nary a trace of dryness or stringiness. We found it was best to halve and seed the squash before cooking; whole pierced squash cooked unevenly. Equal portions of butter and dark brown sugar gave the squash ample but not excessive sweetness. Briefly broiling the squash gave it a welcome roasted texture and a perfectly glazed surface.
SERVES 4
Squash smaller than 1¹⁄
2
pounds will likely cook faster, so begin checking for doneness a few minutes early. Conversely, larger squash will take slightly longer. However, keep in mind that the cooking time is largely dependent on the microwave. If microwaving the squash in Pyrex, the manufacturer recommends adding water to the dish (or bowl) prior to cooking. If you are cooking the squash in a bowl, you will need one that holds about 4 quarts.
2 | acorn squash (1¹⁄ |
Salt | |
3 | tablespoons unsalted butter |
3 | tablespoons dark brown sugar |
1.
Sprinkle squash halves with salt and place, cut sides down, in 13 by 9-inch baking dish or arrange halves in large bowl so that cut sides face out. If using Pyrex, add ¹⁄
4
cup water to dish or bowl. Cover and microwave until squash is very tender and offers no resistance when poked with paring knife, 15 to 25 minutes. Remove baking dish or bowl from microwave and set on clean, dry surface (avoid damp or cold surfaces).
2.
While squash is cooking, adjust oven rack 6 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Melt butter, brown sugar, and ¹⁄
8
teaspoon salt in small saucepan over low heat, whisking occasionally, until combined.
3.
Using tongs, transfer cooked squash, cut side up, to rimmed baking sheet. Spoon portion of butter mixture onto each squash half. Broil until brown and caramelized, 5 to 8 minutes, rotating baking sheet as necessary and removing squash halves as they are done. Serve immediately.
While squash is cooking, combine 1 cup orange juice, 4 chopped dried black figs, 1 tablespoon dark brown sugar, ¹⁄
2
teaspoon minced fresh rosemary, ¹⁄
4
teaspoon pepper, and ¹⁄
8
teaspoon salt in small saucepan. Simmer over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until syrupy and liquid is reduced to about 3 tablespoons, 15 to 20 minutes. Stir in 1 tablespoon unsalted butter. Substitute fig compote for butter mixture.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Because zucchini is so watery, it often cooks up soggy and bland. We wanted to find a way to make sautéed zucchini with concentrated flavor and appealing texture. We found that the secret was to remove water using two methods: salting and draining as well as shredding and squeezing. We grated the zucchini using a box grater, tossed the shreds with salt, drained them in a colander, and wrung them out in a kitchen towel. We tossed the dry shreds with a little olive oil and added them to a hot skillet, where they became tender and lightly browned with minimal stirring. A little garlic and lemon lent bright flavor.
SERVES 4
The bread-crumb topping adds a nice textural contrast to this recipe, but you may omit it if you prefer.
TOPPING
2 | slices hearty white sandwich bread, torn into quarters |
2 | tablespoons unsalted butter |
ZUCCHINI
5 | zucchini, halved lengthwise, seeded, and shredded |
Salt and pepper | |
1 | tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling |
1 | small garlic clove, minced |
1–2 | teaspoons lemon juice |
1. FOR THE TOPPING:
Pulse bread in food processor to coarse crumbs, about 10 pulses. Melt butter in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add bread crumbs and cook, stirring frequently, until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Transfer to small bowl; set aside.
2. FOR THE ZUCCHINI:
Toss zucchini with 1¹⁄
2
teaspoons salt in large bowl. Transfer to colander and let drain for 5 to 10 minutes. Place zucchini in center of kitchen towel and wring out excess moisture, in batches if necessary.
3.
Place zucchini in medium bowl and separate any large clumps. Combine 2 teaspoons oil with garlic in small bowl. Add to zucchini and toss to combine.
4.
Heat remaining 2 teaspoons oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over high heat until just smoking. Add zucchini in even layer and cook, without stirring, until bottom layer browns, about 2 minutes. Stir well, breaking up any clumps with tongs, then cook until bottom layer browns, about 2 minutes more. Off heat, season with lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle with topping, drizzle with olive oil, and serve immediately.
Omit bread-crumb topping. Combine 3 cored, seeded, and diced plum tomatoes, 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil, 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil, 1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar, 1 minced garlic clove, and ¹⁄
4
teaspoon salt in small bowl and set aside. Omit garlic in step 3 and replace lemon juice with tomato mixture in step 4. Transfer to serving platter, sprinkle with ¹⁄
4
cup grated Parmesan, and serve immediately, drizzling with additional olive oil if desired.
Omit bread-crumb topping. Follow steps 2 and 3 as directed, omitting garlic, then heat 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add 2 peeled and grated carrots and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 5 minutes. Add ¹⁄
2
teaspoon ground coriander and ¹⁄
4
teaspoon red pepper flakes and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add grated zucchini and ¹⁄
2
cup golden raisins to skillet, spread into even layer, and cook as directed. Add ¹⁄
2
cup sliced toasted almonds and toss to combine before seasoning with lemon juice, salt, and pepper.
Omit bread-crumb topping and lemon juice. Follow steps 2 and 3 as directed, omitting garlic, then heat 2 teaspoons oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add finely chopped whites from 1 bunch scallions and cook, stirring, until softened and beginning to brown, about 3 minutes. Increase heat to high, add zucchini and cook as directed. Once browned, add 1 cup thawed frozen peas and ¹⁄
2
cup heavy cream and cook, stirring, until cream is mostly reduced, about 2 minutes. Off heat, stir in 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill or mint and thinly sliced scallion greens and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve with lemon wedges.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
We wanted stuffed zucchini worth eating—hearty and full-flavored enough for a side or main course. To avoid soggy and flavorless results, after scooping out the seeds we briefly roasted the zucchini, cut side down before stuffing and baking them. This step added flavor and speeded up the cooking process. For a hearty filling, we started with potatoes and found ingredients like black beans, tomatoes, fresh corn, lamb, and mango worked well. Cheese helped bind some of our fillings, while yogurt added a creamy, bright counterpoint to our Indian-style lamb mixture. Precooking the filling separately meant every component was cooked through perfectly. All we had to do was stuff the zucchini and return them to the hot oven for a quick blast of heat.
SERVES 4 AS A MAIN COURSE OR 8 AS A SIDE DISH
Buy firm zucchini with tiny prickly hairs around the stem ends; the hairs are a sign of freshness.
4 | zucchini (8 ounces each), halved lengthwise |
Salt and pepper | |
4 | tablespoons olive oil |
1 | red potato (6 ounces), cut into ¹⁄ |
1 | onion, chopped fine |
2 | ears corn, husks and silk removed, kernels cut from cobs |
5 | garlic cloves, minced |
2 | teaspoons minced canned chipotle chiles in adobo sauce |
2 | tomatoes, cored, seeded, and chopped |
1 | (15-ounce) can black beans, rinsed |
¹⁄ | cup chopped fresh cilantro |
6 | ounces Monterey Jack cheese, shredded (1¹⁄ |
1.
Adjust oven racks to upper-middle and lowest positions, place rimmed baking sheet on each rack, and heat oven to 400 degrees.
2.
With small spoon, scoop out seeds and most of flesh from zucchini halves, leaving ¹⁄
4
-inch thickness of flesh in each shell. Season cut sides of zucchini with salt and pepper to taste and brush with 2 tablespoons oil. Toss potato with 1 tablespoon oil in small bowl and season with salt and pepper to taste.
3.
Place zucchini, cut side down, on preheated baking sheet on lower rack and spread potato pieces in single layer on preheated baking sheet on upper rack. Roast zucchini until slightly softened and skins are wrinkled, about 10 minutes; roast potato until tender and lightly browned, 10 to 12 minutes. Using tongs, flip zucchini halves over on baking sheet and set aside.
4.
Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and beginning to brown, about 10 minutes. Increase heat to medium-high, stir in corn, and cook until almost tender, about 3 minutes. Add garlic and chipotle and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in tomatoes, black beans, and roasted potatoes. Cook, stirring occasionally, until heated through, about 3 minutes. Off heat, stir in cilantro and ¹⁄
2
cup cheese. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
5.
Divide filling evenly among zucchini halves on baking sheet and pack lightly. Sprinkle with remaining 1 cup cheese and return zucchini to oven to upper-middle rack. Bake until heated through and cheese is spotty brown, about 6 minutes. Serve immediately.