The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (205 page)
Read The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook Online
Authors: The Editors at America's Test Kitchen
Tags: #Cooking
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
The traditional method for glazed salmon calls for broiling, but reaching into a broiling-hot oven every minute to baste the fish is a hassle and, even worse, the fillets often burn if your timing isn’t spot-on. We wanted a foolproof method for glazed salmon that was succulent and pink throughout while keeping the slightly crusty, flavorful browned exterior commonly associated with broiling. Reducing the temperature and gently baking the fish cooked the salmon perfectly. To rapidly caramelize the fillets before their exteriors had a chance to toughen, we sprinkled the fillets with sugar and quickly pan-seared each side before transferring them to the oven. To ensure the glaze stayed put, we rubbed the fish with a mixture of cornstarch, brown sugar, and salt before searing.
SERVES 4
To ensure uniform pieces of fish that cook at the same rate, buy a whole center-cut fillet and cut it into 4 pieces. Prepare the glaze before you cook the salmon. You will need a 12-inch ovensafe nonstick skillet for this recipe. If your nonstick skillet isn’t ovensafe, sear the salmon as directed in step 2, then transfer it to a rimmed baking sheet, glaze it, and bake as directed in step 3.
1 | teaspoon packed light brown sugar |
¹⁄ | teaspoon kosher salt |
¹⁄ | teaspoon cornstarch |
1 | (1¹⁄ |
Pepper | |
1 | teaspoon vegetable oil |
1 | recipe glaze (recipes follow) |
1.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 300 degrees. Combine brown sugar, salt, and cornstarch in small bowl. Use sharp knife to remove any whitish fat from belly of salmon and cut fillet into 4 equal pieces. Pat fillets dry with paper towels and season with pepper. Sprinkle brown sugar mixture evenly over top of flesh side of salmon, rubbing to distribute.
2.
Heat oil in 12-inch ovensafe nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Place salmon, flesh side down, in skillet and cook until well browned, about 1 minute. Using tongs, carefully flip salmon and cook on skin side for 1 minute.
3.
Remove skillet from heat and spoon glaze evenly over salmon fillets. Transfer skillet to oven and cook until fillets register 125 degrees (for medium-rare) and are still translucent when cut into with paring knife, 7 to 10 minutes. Transfer fillets to serving platter or individual plates and serve.
JUDGING DONENESS OF FISH
An instant-read thermometer is a useful tool to check doneness in thick fish fillets, but with thin fillets you have to resort to a more primitive test—nicking the fish with a paring knife and then peeking into the interior to judge color and flakiness. White fish, such as cod, should be cooked to medium (about 140 degrees)—that is, the flesh should be opaque but still moist and just beginning to flake; salmon is best cooked to medium-rare (about 125 degrees), with the center still translucent; and tuna is best when rare (about 110 degrees), with only the outer layer opaque and the rest of the fish translucent.
MAKES ABOUT
¹⁄
2
CUP
Toasted sesame oil gives this teriyaki-like glaze rich flavor.
2 | tablespoons ketchup |
2 | tablespoons hoisin sauce |
2 | tablespoons rice vinegar |
2 | tablespoons packed light brown sugar |
1 | tablespoon soy sauce |
1 | tablespoon toasted sesame oil |
2 | teaspoons Asian chili-garlic sauce |
1 | teaspoon grated fresh ginger |
Whisk ingredients together in small saucepan. Bring to boil over medium-high heat; simmer until thickened, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat and cover to keep warm.
MAKES ABOUT
¹⁄
2
CUP
This fruity, tangy glaze is a perfect match for rich salmon.
3 | tablespoons light brown sugar |
3 | tablespoons pomegranate juice |
2 | tablespoons balsamic vinegar |
1 | tablespoon whole grain mustard |
1 | teaspoon cornstarch |
Pinch cayenne pepper |
Whisk ingredients together in small saucepan. Bring to boil over medium-high heat; simmer until thickened, about 1 minute. Remove from heat and cover to keep warm.
MAKES ABOUT
¹⁄
2
CUP
Miso is a fermented soy bean paste that adds deep flavor to foods. We prefer milder, white miso here, rather than the strong-flavored red miso.
1 | teaspoon grated orange zest plus ¹⁄ |
2 | tablespoons white miso |
1 | tablespoon packed light brown sugar |
1 | tablespoon rice vinegar |
1 | tablespoon whole grain mustard |
³⁄ | teaspoon cornstarch |
Pinch cayenne pepper |
Whisk ingredients together in small saucepan. Bring to boil over medium-high heat; simmer until thickened, about 1 minute. Remove from heat and cover to keep warm.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Roasting a salmon fillet can create a brown exterior, but often the price is a dry, overcooked interior. For a nicely browned exterior and a silky, moist interior, we developed a hybrid roasting method, preheating the oven to 500 degrees but then turning down the heat to 275 just before placing the fish in the oven. The initial blast of high heat firmed the exterior and rendered some excess fat. Then the fish gently cooked through and at the same time stayed moist as the temperature slowly dropped, while some of the remaining fat was eliminated through several slits made in the skin. Adding an easy relish lent acidity and flavors that balanced the richness of the fish.
SERVES 4
To ensure uniform pieces of fish that cook at the same rate, buy a whole center-cut fillet and cut it into 4 pieces. If your knife is not sharp enough to easily cut through the skin, try a serrated knife. It is important to keep the skin on during cooking to protect the flesh; remove it afterward if you choose not to serve it.
1 | (1³⁄ |
2 | teaspoons olive oil |
Salt and pepper | |
1 | recipe relish (recipes follow) |
1.
Adjust oven rack to lowest position, place rimmed baking sheet on rack, and heat oven to 500 degrees. Use sharp knife to remove any whitish fat from belly of salmon and cut fillet into 4 equal pieces. Make 4 or 5 shallow slashes about an inch apart along skin side of each piece of salmon, being careful not to cut into flesh.
2.
Pat salmon dry with paper towels. Rub fillets evenly with oil and season with salt and pepper. Reduce oven temperature to 275 degrees and remove baking sheet. Carefully place salmon, skin side down, on baking sheet. Roast until centers of thickest part of fillets are still translucent when cut into with paring knife and thickest part of fillets registers 125 degrees, 9 to 13 minutes. Transfer fillets to serving platter or individual plates, top with relish, and serve.
MAKES ABOUT
1¹⁄
2
CUPS
Use fine summer tomatoes for this relish.
12 | ounces tomatoes, cored, seeded, and cut into ¹⁄ |
¹⁄ | small shallot, minced |
1 | small garlic clove, minced |
1 | tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil |
1 | teaspoon red wine vinegar |
2 | tablespoons chopped fresh basil |
Salt and pepper |
Combine all ingredients in medium bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
Parsley can be substituted for the mint.
1 | cucumber, peeled, halved lengthwise, seeded, and cut into ¹⁄ |
1 | serrano chile, stemmed, seeded, and minced |
2 | tablespoons chopped fresh mint |
¹⁄ | small shallot, minced |
1–2 | tablespoons lime juice |
Salt |
Combine cucumber, chile, mint, shallot, 1 tablespoon lime juice, and ¹⁄
4
teaspoon salt in medium bowl. Let stand at room temperature to blend flavors, 15 minutes. Adjust seasoning with additional lime juice and salt to taste.
MAKES ABOUT
1¹⁄
4
CUPS
Oranges can be substituted for the tangerines.
4 | tangerines |
1 | scallion, sliced thin |
1¹⁄ | teaspoons grated fresh ginger |
2 | teaspoons lemon juice |
2 | teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil |
Salt and pepper |
1.
Peel tangerines, making sure to remove all pith, and cut into ¹⁄
2
-inch pieces. Place pieces in fine-mesh strainer set over medium bowl and drain for 15 minutes.
2.
Pour off all but 1 tablespoon tangerine juice from bowl; whisk in scallion, ginger, lemon juice, and oil. Stir in tangerine pieces and season with salt and pepper to taste.
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP
Regular grapefruits can be substituted for the red grapefruits.
2 | red grapefruits |
2 | tablespoons chopped fresh basil |
¹⁄ | small shallot, minced |
2 | teaspoons lemon juice |
2 | teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil |
Salt and pepper |
1.
Peel grapefruits, making sure to remove all pith, and cut into ¹⁄
2
-inch pieces. Place pieces in fine-mesh strainer set over medium bowl and drain for 15 minutes.
2.
Pour off all but 1 tablespoon grapefruit juice from bowl; whisk in basil, shallot, lemon juice, and oil. Stir in grapefruit pieces and season with salt and pepper to taste.