The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (232 page)
Read The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook Online
Authors: The Editors at America's Test Kitchen
Tags: #Cooking
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Grilled tenderloin sounds appealing, but with a whole tenderloin going for as much as $100, uneven cooking, bland flavor, and a tough outer crust just don’t cut it. To flavor the meat, we salted it, wrapped it in plastic, and let it rest on the counter before hitting the hot grill. Tucking the narrow tip end of the tenderloin under and tying it securely gave the tenderloin a more consistent thickness that allowed it to cook through more evenly on the grill. Direct heat was too hot for the roast to endure throughout the entire cooking time, so after briefly searing the meat over the coals and flames, we moved it away from the heat for grill-roasting via indirect heat. We also tried using wood chips to gently boost the meat’s smoky flavor and made this an option.
See “TRIMMING A BEEF TENDERLOIN” illustrations that follow recipe.
SERVES 10 TO 12
Beef tenderloins purchased from wholesale clubs require a good amount of trimming before cooking. At the grocery store, however, you may have the option of having the butcher trim it for you. Once trimmed, and with the butt tenderloin still attached (the butt tenderloin is the lobe attached to the large end of the roast), the roast should weigh 4¹⁄
2
to 5 pounds. If you purchase an already-trimmed tenderloin without the butt tenderloin attached, begin checking for doneness about 5 minutes early. When using a charcoal grill, we prefer wood chunks to wood chips whenever possible; substitute 2 medium wood chunks, soaked in water for 1 hour, for the wood chip packet (if using). Serve with Cilantro-Parsley Sauce with Pickled Jalapeños, Romesco Sauce, or Salsa Verde (recipes follow), if desired.
1 | (6-pound) beef tenderloin, trimmed of fat and silver skin, tail end tucked and tied with kitchen twine at 2-inch intervals |
1¹⁄ | tablespoons kosher salt |
2 | cups wood chips, soaked in water for 15 minutes and drained (optional) |
2 | tablespoons olive oil |
1 | tablespoon pepper |
1.
Pat tenderloin dry with paper towels and rub with salt. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let sit at room temperature for 1 hour.
2.
Using large piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil, wrap soaked wood chips, if using, in foil packet and cut several vent holes in top.
3A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL:
Open bottom vent halfway. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over half of grill. Place wood chip packet, if using, on coals. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent halfway. Heat grill until hot and wood chips are smoking, about 5 minutes.
3B. FOR A GAS GRILL:
Place wood chip packet, if using, over primary burner. Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot and wood chips are smoking, about 15 minutes. Leave primary burner on high and off other burner(s). (Adjust primary burner as needed during cooking to maintain grill temperature around 350 degrees.)
4.
Clean and oil cooking grate. Rub tenderloin with oil and season with pepper. Place roast on hot side of grill and cook (covered if using gas) until well browned on all sides, 8 to 10 minutes, turning as needed. (If flare-ups occur, move roast to cooler side of grill until flames die down.)
5.
Move roast to cool side of grill, cover (position lid vent over meat if using charcoal), and cook until meat registers 115 to 120 degrees (for rare) or 120 to 125 degrees (for medium-rare), 15 to 30 minutes.
6.
Transfer roast to carving board, tent loosely with foil, and let rest for 10 to 15 minutes. Remove twine, cut into ¹⁄
2
-inch-thick slices, and serve.
MAKES ABOUT
1¹⁄
2
CUPS
This sauce will discolor if left to sit for too long; it’s best served within 4 hours of making it.
2–3 | slices hearty white sandwich bread, crusts removed, bread lightly toasted and cut into ¹⁄ |
1 | cup extra-virgin olive oil |
¹⁄ | cup lemon juice (2 lemons) |
2 | cups fresh cilantro leaves |
2 | cups fresh parsley leaves |
3 | tablespoons chopped pickled jalapeño slices |
1 | garlic clove, minced |
Salt |
Process bread, oil, and lemon juice in food processor until smooth, 10 to 15 seconds. Add cilantro, parsley, jalapeños, garlic, and ¹⁄
4
teaspoon salt and pulse until finely chopped (mixture should not be smooth), about 10 pulses. Season with salt to taste and transfer to serving bowl.
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
In addition to being an excellent accompaniment to beef, fish, and poultry, this sauce is also terrific spread on toasted bread or used as a dip for crudités.
1–2 | slices hearty white sandwich bread, crusts removed, bread lightly toasted, and cut into ¹⁄ |
3 | tablespoons slivered almonds, toasted |
1³⁄ | cups jarred roasted red peppers |
1 | small ripe tomato, cored, seeded, and chopped |
2 | tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil |
1¹⁄ | tablespoons sherry vinegar |
1 | large garlic clove, minced |
¹⁄ | teaspoon cayenne pepper |
Salt |
Process bread and almonds in food processor until nuts are finely ground, 10 to 15 seconds. Add red peppers, tomato, oil, vinegar, garlic, cayenne, and ¹⁄
2
teaspoon salt. Process until mixture has texture similar to mayonnaise, 20 to 30 seconds. Season with salt to taste and transfer to serving bowl. (Sauce can be refrigerated for up to 2 days.)
Although wholesale clubs offer whole beef tenderloins at an affordable price, most come “unpeeled,” with the fat and silver skin (a tough membrane) intact. Here’s how to trim a tenderloin for the grill. Expect to lose between 1 and 1¹⁄
2
pounds during the trimming process. A boning knife is the best tool for this task.
1.
Pull away outer layer of fat to expose fatty chain of meat.
2.
Pull chain of fat away from roast, cut it off, and discard chain.
3.
Scrape silver skin at creases in thick end to expose lobes.
4.
Trim silver skin by slicing under it and cutting upward.
5.
Remove remaining silver skin in creases at thick end.
6.
Turn tenderloin over and remove fat from underside.