The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (228 page)
Read The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook Online
Authors: The Editors at America's Test Kitchen
Tags: #Cooking
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Grilled Tuscan-style steaks can be raw on the inside even when the outer crust is perfectly seared, and the flavor of the olive oil and lemon juice just doesn’t come through. We wanted perfectly grilled steak accented by olive oil to complement the flavor of the meat and lemon juice, to sharpen the flavors of the dish and cut its richness. For our version, we seared the steaks on the hotter side of a two-level fire, then moved them to the cooler side of the grill to finish cooking, as we do with our grilled porterhouse and T-bone recipe. To bring out the full, fresh flavor of the olive oil and lemon juice, we drizzled them over the steak after cooking rather than before, as many recipes recommend.
SERVES 4 TO 6
Be sure to buy steaks that are at least 1 inch thick.
2 | (1³⁄ |
Salt and pepper | |
3 | tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil |
Lemon wedges |
1A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL:
Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter three-quarters filled with charcoal briquettes (4¹⁄
2
quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over half of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
1B. FOR A GAS GRILL:
Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave primary burner on high and turn other burner(s) to low.
2.
Clean and oil cooking grate. Pat steaks dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Place steaks on hot side of grill with tenderloin sides (smaller side of T-bone) facing cool side of grill. Cook (covered if using gas) until dark crust forms, 6 to 8 minutes. (If steaks start to flame, move them to cooler side of fire and/or extinguish flames with squirt bottle.) Flip steaks and turn so that tenderloin sides are facing cool side of grill. Continue to cook (covered if using gas) until dark brown crust forms on second side, 6 to 8 minutes longer.
3.
Transfer steaks to cool side of grill with bone side facing hot side of grill. Cover grill and continue to cook until meat registers 115 to 120 degrees (for rare) or 120 to 125 degrees (for medium-rare), 2 to 4 minutes longer, flipping halfway through cooking.
4.
Transfer steaks to carving board, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 10 minutes. Cut strip and tenderloin pieces off bones, then cut each piece crosswise into ¹⁄
4
-inch slices. Transfer to serving platter, drizzle with oil, and serve with lemon wedges.
Rub halved garlic cloves over bone and meat on each side of steaks before seasoning with salt and pepper.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
For a grilled steak that sported a dark (but not blackened) crust, smoky aroma, and deep grilled flavor, we first seared the meat directly over a hot fire, then gently finished cooking it over indirect heat. Since a T-bone is really two steaks—a tender New York strip steak on one side of the bone and a buttery, quicker-cooking tenderloin on the other, we positioned the meat so that the tenderloin always faced the cooler side of the grill, which prevented that portion from becoming overcooked and dry. Salting the meat for one hour before grilling boosted flavor from crust to bone.
See “SLICING T-BONE AND PORTERHOUSE STEAKS” illustrations that follow recipe.
SERVES 4 TO 6
Be sure to buy steaks that are at least 1 inch thick.
2 | (1³⁄ |
2 | teaspoons salt |
2 | teaspoons pepper |
1 | recipe |
1.
Season entire surface of each steak with 1 teaspoon salt and let sit at room temperature for 1 hour. Pat steaks dry with paper towels and season each with 1 teaspoon pepper.
2A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL:
Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter three-quarters filled with charcoal briquettes (4¹⁄
2
quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over half of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
2B. FOR A GAS GRILL:
Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave primary burner on high and turn other burner(s) to low.
3.
Clean and oil cooking grate. Place steaks on hot side of grill with tenderloin sides (smaller side of T-bone) facing cool side of grill. Cook (covered if using gas) until dark crust forms, 6 to 8 minutes. (If steaks start to flame, move them to cooler side of fire and/or extinguish flames with squirt bottle.) Flip steaks and turn so that tenderloin sides are facing cool side of grill. Continue to cook (covered if using gas) until dark brown crust forms on second side, 6 to 8 minutes longer.
4.
Brush with butter, if using, and transfer steaks to cool side of grill with bone side facing hot side of grill. Cover grill and continue to cook until meat registers 115 to 120 degrees (for rare) or 120 to 125 degrees (for medium-rare), 2 to 4 minutes longer, flipping halfway through cooking.
5.
Transfer steaks to carving board, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 10 minutes. Cut strip and tenderloin pieces off bones, then cut each piece crosswise into ¹⁄
4
-inch slices. Serve.
MAKES ABOUT 6 TABLESPOONS, ENOUGH FOR 1 RECIPE
GRILLED PORTERHOUSE OR T-BONE STEAKS
4 | tablespoons unsalted butter, melted |
2 | tablespoons minced shallot |
1 | garlic clove, minced |
1 | tablespoon minced fresh chives |
Salt and pepper |
Combine all ingredients in bowl and season with salt and pepper to taste.
1.
Cut along bone to remove large top loin, or strip, section.
2.
Cut smaller tenderloin section off bone.
3.
Cut each large piece crosswise into ¹⁄
4
-inch-thick slices for serving.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
We wanted an Argentine-style grilled steak with a mahogany-hued char that snapped with each bite and tasted the way a roaring fireplace smells: woody (not smoky). We chose well-marbled strip steak for its beefy flavor and moist meat. To give our steaks authentic Argentine wood-smoke flavor, we added wood chip packets to the grill. For the steaks’ requisite deep-brown char, we needed to get the exterior bone-dry. To do this, we sprinkled the steaks with salt and cornstarch (which helped dry out the exterior) and then left them uncovered in the freezer. Finally, all we needed was the traditional steak condiment, chimichurri sauce, which we made with parsley, cilantro, oregano, garlic, red wine vinegar, red pepper flakes, and salt—all emulsified with extra-virgin olive oil.
SERVES 6 TO 8
Our preferred steak for this recipe is strip steak, also known as New York strip. A less expensive alternative is a boneless shell sirloin steak (or top sirloin steak). Four medium wood chunks, unsoaked, can be substituted for the wood chip packets on a charcoal grill.
SAUCE
¹⁄ | cup hot water |
2 | teaspoons dried oregano |
1 | teaspoon salt |
1¹⁄ | cups parsley leaves |
²⁄ | cup cilantro leaves |
6 | garlic cloves, minced |
¹⁄ | teaspoon red pepper flakes |
¹⁄ | cup red wine vinegar |
¹⁄ | cup extra-virgin olive oil |
STEAKS
1 | tablespoon cornstarch |
1¹⁄ | teaspoons salt |
4 | (1-pound) boneless strip steaks, 1¹⁄ |
4 | cups wood chips, soaked in water for 15 minutes and drained |
Pepper |
1. FOR THE SAUCE:
Combine water, oregano, and salt in small bowl and let sit until oregano is softened, about 15 minutes. Pulse parsley, cilantro, garlic, and pepper flakes in food processor until coarsely chopped, about 10 pulses. Add water mixture and vinegar and pulse to combine. Transfer mixture to bowl and slowly whisk in oil until emulsified. Cover with plastic wrap and let sit at room temperature for 1 hour.
2. FOR THE STEAKS:
Combine cornstarch and salt in bowl. Pat steaks dry with paper towels and place on wire rack set in rimmed baking sheet. Rub entire surface of steaks with cornstarch mixture and place steaks, uncovered, in freezer until very firm, about 30 minutes.
3.
Using 2 large pieces of heavy-duty aluminum foil, wrap soaked chips in 2 foil packets and cut several vent holes in tops.
4A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL:
Open bottom vent halfway. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over grill. Place wood chip packet on coals. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent halfway. Heat grill until hot and wood chips are smoking, about 5 minutes.
4B. FOR A GAS GRILL:
Place wood chip packet directly on primary burner. Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot and wood chips are smoking, about 15 minutes. Leave all burners on high.
5.
Clean and oil cooking grate. Season steaks with pepper. Place steaks on grill, cover, and cook until beginning to brown on both sides, 4 to 6 minutes, flipping halfway through cooking.
6.
Flip steaks and cook until well browned on first side, 2 to 4 minutes. Flip steaks and continue to cook until meat registers 115 to 120 degrees (for rare) or 120 to 125 degrees (for medium-rare), 2 to 6 minutes longer.
7.
Transfer steaks to carving board, tent loosely with foil, and let rest for 10 minutes. Cut each steak crosswise into ¹⁄
4
-inch slices. Transfer to serving platter and serve, passing sauce separately.