The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (314 page)

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Authors: The Editors at America's Test Kitchen

Tags: #Cooking

BOOK: The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook
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THE ULTIMATE FLOURLESS CHOCOLATE CAKE

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

While all flourless chocolate cake recipes share common ingredients (chocolate, butter, and eggs), the techniques used to make them vary, as do the results. You can end up with anything from a fudge brownie to a chocolate soufflé. We wanted something dense, moist, and ultra-chocolaty, but with some textural finesse. We started with the chocolate. A cake made with unsweetened chocolate was neither smooth nor silky enough. Bittersweet and semisweet chocolate each won out; both delivered deep chocolate flavor and a smooth texture. Next we turned to the eggs, comparing cakes made with room-temperature whole eggs and whole eggs taken straight from the fridge. The batter made with chilled eggs produced a denser foam and the resulting cake boasted a smooth, velvety texture. And the gentle, moist heat of a water bath further preserved the cake’s lush texture.

THE ULTIMATE FLOURLESS CHOCOLATE CAKE

SERVES 12 TO 16

Even though the cake may not look done, pull it from the oven when it registers 140 degrees. It will continue to firm up as it cools. If you use a 9-inch springform pan instead of the preferred 8-inch, reduce the baking time to 18 to 20 minutes.

8

large eggs, chilled

1

pound bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped coarse

16

tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into ¹⁄
2
-inch pieces

¹⁄
4

cup strong brewed coffee, room temperature

Confectioners’ sugar or cocoa

1.
Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 325 degrees. Grease 8-inch springform pan, line with parchment paper, then grease sides. Wrap outside of pan with two 18-inch-square pieces of aluminum foil; set in roasting pan. Bring kettle of water to boil.

2.
Using stand mixer fitted with whisk, whip eggs on medium speed until doubled in volume, about 5 minutes.

3.
Meanwhile, melt chocolate with butter and coffee in large heatproof bowl set over saucepan filled with 1 inch of barely simmering water, stirring once or twice until smooth and very warm (should register about 115 degrees). Using large rubber spatula, fold one-third of egg foam into chocolate mixture until few streaks of egg are visible. Fold in remaining foam in 2 additions until mixture is totally homogeneous.

4.
Scrape batter into prepared pan and smooth top with rubber spatula. Set roasting pan on oven rack and pour enough boiling water into roasting pan to come about halfway up sides of springform pan. Bake until cake has risen slightly, edges are just beginning to set, thin glazed crust (like a brownie crust) has formed on surface, and cake registers 140 degrees, 22 to 25 minutes. Remove cake pan from water bath and set on wire rack; let cool to room temperature. Cover and refrigerate overnight. (Cake can be refrigerated for up to 4 days).

5.
About 30 minutes before serving, run thin knife between cake and sides of pan; remove sides of pan. Invert cake onto sheet of waxed paper, discard parchment, and turn cake right side up onto serving platter. Dust with confectioners’ sugar, if using, and serve.

CHOCOLATE RASPBERRY TORTE

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

Sachertorte, the classic Viennese dessert with layers of chocolate cake sandwiching apricot jam and enrobed in a creamy-rich chocolate glaze, always sounds more promising than it typically is in reality—dry, flavorless cake and sweet jam with little fruity complexity, all covered in a glaze that is nothing more than a thin, overly sugary coating. We set out to create a rich, deeply chocolaty dessert using Sachertorte as the inspiration, giving it our own spin by pairing the chocolate with raspberries. For a rich, fudgy base, we started by baking our Ultimate Flourless Chocolate Cake in two 9-inch pans, so we could sandwich the two cakes together rather than deal with halving a single delicate cake. But when we tried to pick up the second layer and, later, eat it, the dense cake tore and fell apart. Adding ground nuts gave it the structure it needed, plus a good boost of flavor. Since we were using the food processor to grind the nuts, we tweaked our cake recipe so that it could be prepared using the same appliance. The winning approach for our filling was to combine jam with lightly mashed fresh berries for a tangy-sweet mixture that clung to the cake. For the glaze, we kept things simple, melting bittersweet chocolate with heavy cream to create a rich-tasting, glossy ganache that poured smoothly over the cake. And to up the glamour quotient, we dotted fresh raspberries around the top perimeter of the torte and pressed sliced, toasted almonds along its sides.

See “ASSEMBLING CHOCOLATE RASPBERRY TORTE” illustrations that follow recipe.

CHOCOLATE RASPBERRY TORTE

SERVES 12 TO 16

Be sure to use cake pans with at least 2-inch-tall sides.

CAKE AND FILLING

8

ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped fine

12

tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into ¹⁄
2
-inch pieces

2

teaspoons vanilla extract

¹⁄
4

teaspoon instant espresso powder

1³⁄
4

cups (6¹⁄
8
ounces) sliced almonds, toasted

¹⁄
4

cup (1¹⁄
4
ounces) all-purpose flour

¹⁄
2

teaspoon salt

5

large eggs, room temperature

³⁄
4

cup (5¹⁄
4
ounces) sugar

FILLING

2¹⁄
2

ounces (¹⁄
2
cup) raspberries, plus 16 individual raspberries

¹⁄
4

cup seedless raspberry jam

GLAZE

5

ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped fine

¹⁄
2

cup plus 1 tablespoon heavy cream

1. FOR THE CAKE:
Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 325 degrees. Grease two 9-inch round cake pans, line with parchment paper, grease parchment, and flour pans. Melt chocolate and butter in large heatproof bowl set over saucepan filled with 1 inch of barely simmering water, stirring occasionally until smooth. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature, about 30 minutes. Stir in vanilla and espresso.

2.
Pulse ³⁄
4
cup almonds in food processor until coarsely chopped, 6 to 8 pulses, and set aside. Process remaining 1 cup almonds until very finely ground, about 45 seconds. Add flour and salt and continue to process until combined, about 15 seconds. Transfer almond-flour mixture to medium bowl. Process eggs until lightened in color and almost doubled in volume, about 3 minutes. With processor running, slowly add sugar and process until thoroughly combined, about 15 seconds. Using whisk, gently fold egg mixture into chocolate mixture until some streaks of egg remain. Sprinkle half almond-flour mixture over chocolate mixture and gently whisk until just combined. Sprinkle with remaining almond-flour mixture and gently whisk until just combined.

3.
Divide batter evenly between prepared pans and smooth tops with rubber spatula. Bake cakes until centers are firm and toothpick inserted in centers comes out with few moist crumbs attached, 14 to 16 minutes. Transfer cakes to wire rack and let cool completely in pans, about 30 minutes.

4.
Run paring knife around sides of cakes to loosen and invert cakes onto cardboard rounds cut same size as diameter of cake; discard parchment. Using wire rack, turn 1 cake right side up, then slide from rack back onto cardboard round.

5. FOR THE FILLING:
Place ¹⁄
2
cup raspberries in medium bowl and coarsely mash with fork. Stir in raspberry jam until just combined.

6. TO ASSEMBLE THE TORTE:
Spread raspberry mixture onto cake layer that is right side up. Top with second cake layer, leaving it upside down. Transfer assembled cake, still on cardboard round, to wire rack set in rimmed baking sheet.

7. FOR THE GLAZE:
Melt chocolate and cream in medium heatproof bowl set over saucepan filled with 1 inch of barely simmering water, stirring occasionally until smooth. Remove from heat and gently whisk until very smooth. Pour glaze onto center of assembled cake. Using offset spatula, spread glaze evenly over top of cake, letting it drip down sides. Spread glaze along sides of cake to coat evenly.

8.
Using fine-mesh strainer, sift reserved almonds to remove any fine bits. Holding bottom of cake on cardboard round with 1 hand, gently press sifted almonds onto cake sides with other hand. Arrange remaining 16 raspberries around circumference. Refrigerate cake on rack until glaze is set, at least 1 hour or up to 24 hours (if refrigerating cake for more than 1 hour, let sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes before serving). Transfer cake to serving platter and serve.

ASSEMBLING CHOCOLATE RASPBERRY TORTE

This approach creates a torte with a perfectly flat bottom and top.

1.
Run paring knife around sides of cakes and invert layers onto cardboard rounds cut same size as diameter of cake, then remove parchment paper.

2.
Using wire rack, turn 1 cake right side up, then slide from wire rack back onto cardboard round.

3.
Spread raspberry filling over cake layer that is right side up.

4.
Top with second cake, leaving bottom facing up, then use offset spatula to evenly spread glaze over top and sides.

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