India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (146 page)

Museum Rd. Napier Museum
0471/231-8294.
Sri Chitra Art Gallery
0471/247-3952.
Purchase tickets for all museums at the ticket booth. Admission to Museum and Art Gallery Rs 10. Thurs–Sun and Tues 10am–4:45pm; Wed 1:30–4:45pm.

Padmanabhaswamy Temple
This Dravidian-style Vishnu temple, said to be the largest in Kerala, may be off-limits to non-Hindus, but the “temple guides” manage to target foreigners with great ease, leading them to the obligatory spots from which to photograph the seven-story-high entrance tower, or
goparum,
which is pretty much all that can be viewed from the outside. The temple—one of 108 sacred Vishnu temples in India—is believed to have come into existence on the first day of the Kaliyuga era (3102
B.C.
). Legend has it that the temple “materialized” after a sage prayed to Vishnu asking him to appear in a form that he could comprehend with his limited human vision—but the greater part of the complex was built during the 18th century. The temple is fronted by a massive tank, where devotees take ritual dips. Alongside a promenade are stalls selling ritual items, religious souvenirs, and flowers for use inside the temple.

Fort, Trivandrum.
0471/245-0233.
Closed to non-Hindus. 4am–noon and 5–7:30pm.

Puthenmalika (Kuthiramalika) Palace Museum
A secret, private passage is believed to connect Padmanabhaswamy Temple with this Travancore-style palace, built in the early 18th century by the social reformer Maharajah Swathi Thirunal Balarama Varma, a poet and distinguished musician. Known as the Horse Palace because of the 122 carved horse brackets that buttress the exterior walls, the buildings include elaborate carvings, among them two extravagant thrones—one made from 25 elephant tusks, another made entirely from Bohemian crystal. Visitors are also allowed into the maharaja’s music room, from where you get the same view of the temple that was apparently a source of inspiration to the erstwhile ruler. Despite the value of much of the collection, the buildings are in need of renovation; the beauty of the carved teakwood ceilings and collected objets d’art are sometimes masked by insufficient lighting and neglectful curatorship. You’ll be taken around by an “official” guide—obviously he’ll require a small tip.

100m (328 ft.) from the temple, Fort.
0471/247-3952.
Entrance Rs 20 adult, Rs 10 children. Tues–Sun 8:30am–1pm and 3–5:30pm.

ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

Shree Karthika Thirunal Theatre
(alongside Lucia Continental Hotel;
0471/247-1335
), in Trivandrum’s Fort district, holds regular classical dance-theater performances (mostly Karnatic, but also Hindustani) throughout the year. The theater has its own company but hosts outside groups showcasing various genres, including Kathakali, Mohiniattam, and Bharatanatyam.

You can observe
Kalaripayattu
martial arts classes, and even arrange special performances or lecture demonstrations, through
C.V.N. Kalari
(East Fort, Trivandrum;
0471/247-4182;
www.cvnkalarikerala.com
). Established in 1956, this institution has represented India at numerous international festivals.

WHERE TO STAY & DINE

Walk up the spiraling incline of
Maveli Coffee House
(btw. the Tourist Reception Centre and KSRTC bus stand; daily 7:30am–10pm), if only to be able to say afterward that you’ve dined in one of the world’s oddest restaurants, which somewhat resembles a squat, ocher-colored version of Pisa’s leaning tower. Located diagonally opposite the railway station, this unique coffeehouse was designed by Laurie Baker, the renowned English architect who pioneered environmentally sustainable architecture and worked on hundreds of projects in southern India before passing away in Trivandrum, his adopted home, in 2007. It’s a favorite hangout for the locals and an interesting spot in which to spend some time rubbing shoulders with the groundlings and businesspeople who come here for their
idlis,
dosas,
and
chai
or coffee.

If you’re exploring the Secretariat, head across the road to
Arul Jyothi
(Mahatma Gandhi Rd.; daily 6:30am–10pm). The capital’s civil servants pile in here at lunchtime, when there’s much ordering of
thalis
(the ubiquitous platter featuring Indian breads and various curries and chutneys) and wonderful
masala dosas.
If you’re keen to browse newspapers from back home, stop at the British Library nearby; it has a good collection of magazines and international dailies (just show your passport to enter). Alternatively,
Kadaleevanam
(Prakrithi Bhojanasala Hotel Mas Annexe, near the SL Theatre, Chettikulangara;
0471/247-2780;
daily 8am–9:30pm; no credit cards), where the owners pride themselves on the fact that they have no fridges or freezers (all food, cooked on wood fires, is served within 3 hr. or not offered to customers) and use only organically grown vegetables and whole grains, apparently prepared according to the principles of naturopathy. The set meal will run you a mere Rs 100.