India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (246 page)

Punjabi By Nature
PUNJABI This is one of Delhi’s best-regarded Punjabi restaurants (now a reliable chain); at the Basant Lok venue there are two floors for diners, and a pub upstairs, all a mere 10 minutes’ drive west of Haus Khas Village (or 15 min. from Safdarjung’s tomb, the Hyatt Regency, or the Santushti Shopping Complex (see shopping below). Ask for a table by the atmospheric display kitchen. Try masala quail
(bataear masaledar)
or fresh
tandoori
pomfret, and take heed of the wine suggestions. The staff is particularly proud of the
raan-e-Punjab,
marinated whole leg of lamb cooked in the tandoor—you’re served the tender meat as it literally falls off the bone. If you’re adventurous, arrive for happy hour (4–8pm) and try the house specialty, a “golguppa” shot: a tiny
puri
(fried puffed bread) filled with spicy vodka, which you pop into your mouth whole.

11 Basant Lok, Vasant Vihar.
011/4151-6666
or -6667.
www.punjabibynature.in
. Main courses Rs 245–Rs 795. 10% service charge. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 12:30pm–midnight.

Smokehouse Grill
MODERN EUROPEAN All shades of wood, jute, and gorgeous lampshades make up most of what you can see behind and in-between the crowds that throng this happening spot. Retro nights on Friday’s are insane with a guarantee that you won’t be able to hear yourself think, but that’s the point—you are meant to indulge freely and wildly in the award-winning cocktails at the buzzing bar and then make your way to the dining area and get smoked! The seared John Dory was delicious, the steak less so, but the salads and apple martinis more than made up for it not to mention the baked white chocolate and blueberry cheesecake! Look out for owner Riyaz Amlani’s ultracool Kawasaki VN 2000 parked outside, which has become as synonymous with the restaurant as the tottering logo.

North Wing VIPPS Centre, LSC Masjid Moth, Greater Kailash II.
011/4143-5530.
www.smokehousegrill.in
. Reservations required for dinner. Main courses Rs 380–Rs 1150 AE, MC, V. Daily 12:30–3pm, 7:30pm–midnight; bar open till 1am.

Swagath
SOUTH INDIAN This might just be the best seafood restaurant in Delhi. Always busy, the place has a no-nonsense ambience over several floors in Defence Colony Market, a popular shopping destination in a relaxed residential area. The classic South Indian menu—Mangalorean, Maharashtran, Keralan, Malabari, and Chettinad cuisines—is a great testament to the diversity of Indian culinary influences. This is also the only place in town where you can sample “Bombay Duck”: dried, crispy fish that makes a finger-licking starter. We also love the garlicky prawns, done in butter and pepper followed by the “special fish”; be sure to specify
“surmai,”
which is the less bony kingfish (
bangda
—mackerel
—
is the bonier alternative). If you’re fond of Thai curries, you might like the taste of fish
gassi,
a Mangalorean-style dish with coconut gravy.
Tip:
If you’re feeling adventurous, the little mobile vendor stationed near Swagath’s entrance prepares excellent
paan.
Considered a digestive and a stimulant, these parcels of tobacco, betel nut, and other assorted ingredients (some even include low traces of opiate) may not be something you want to do regularly, but they’re certainly a vital part of Indian street culture. Ask for one of the sweeter blends and remember to chew, not swallow!

14 Defence Colony Market.
011/2433-7538.
www.swagath.in
. Reservations highly recommended. Main courses Rs 125–Rs 900. AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–11:30pm.

Inexpensive

Sagar
is one of Delhi’s favorite restaurant chains, serving reliable vegetarian South Indian food at reasonable prices till 11pm. Have one of the South Indian thali platters, and eat with your hands. End your meal with Madrasi filter coffee, or you can start your day the same way—the restaurant opens at 8am, which is the best time for traditional
idli
(South India’s favorite breakfast dumplings) and chutneys. You’ll battle to spend more than Rs 90 on food here. There’s a good outlet at 18 Defence Colony Market (
011/2433-3110;
www.sagarratna.in
), just 10 minutes from India Gate. When in Old Delhi, one must-see eatery is
Haldiram’s
(1454/2, Chandini Chowk
011/2883-3007;
www.haldiram.com
), always bustling with frenetic activity as locals flock to pick up the city’s most legendary range of Indian sweets. Another legendary shop, worth a look in even if only to bask in the historic glow of a place that served both Nehru and Indira Gandhi (not to mention other Indian prime ministers), is a
paratha
shop recognizable by the sign reading
the power of pranthas—pt. gaya prasad shiv charan
(
98-1126-3137
), which you’ll probably need your guide to help you seek out (it’s at 34 Gali Pranthe Wail, Chandni Chowk). This shouldn’t be too difficult, as the little eatery has been satisfying locals since 1872 and any guide worth his salt should know it. There are 20 different varieties of
paratha
available, and each comes with a thalilike plate filled with
sambals,
vegetables, lentils, and sauces to make a more substantial meal out of the popular street food. Grab a seat and join the Old Delhi locals.