India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (247 page)

Karim Hotel
MUGHLAI In the heart of Old Delhi, not far from the Jama Masjid, Old Delhis most famous eatery dates from 1913, when it was opened by a chef who claimed to have hailed from a family of royal cooks who served, among other guests, the great Mughal emperor Akbar. Don’t be put off by the informal setting; the food is very good. It’s primarily a meat-eaters’ hangout, with the real princely treats being the mutton
burra
kebabs. The butter-cooked chicken
(makhani murgh)
is also wonderful, as is the
badshahi badam pasanda,
mutton cooked with blended almonds and yogurt and fragrant spices. If you’re really adventurous, you can also sample exotic fare such as spiced goat feet, or the advance-order
bakra
feast—lamb stuffed with chicken, rice, eggs, and dried fruit, a meal made for a dozen people (about Rs 5,500). No doubt about it: This is the real deal.

16 Gali Kababian, Jama Masjid.
011/2326-4981
or -9880.
www.karimhoteldelhi.com
. Main courses Rs 51–Rs 250. No credit cards. Daily 7am–midnight.

Naivedyam
SOUTH INDIAN VEGETARIAN Delhi has five branches of this fantastic, cramped, and always busy little South Indian restaurant; the one in Hauz Khas (marked by the Nandi statue facing the front entrance) is the original, atmospherically decorated with mirror-framed Tanjore paintings and pillars that have been beautifully carved and embossed. Start your meal with a spicy peppery lentil soup, called
rasam,
which is drunk as a curative and is something of an acquired taste. Thalis, or multicourse platters, are served at mealtime, and are a good way to sample a variety of tastes from the south. Alternatively, you can choose from a whole range of
dosas
(rice and lentil flour pancake; ask the waiter for some advice regarding which to order), always served with chutney (made from ground coconut and green chilies, sometimes with mint), and
sambar,
a souplike concoction of lentils, tamarind, and vegetables. Tea and coffee are served in the style typical of the south; no alcohol is served.

1 Hauz Khas Village.
011/2696-0426.
Main courses Rs 60–Rs 200; thali Rs 125. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am–11pm.

Saucy Fingers

One of our absolute favorite eating experiences in Delhi has got to be
Khan Chacha Kabab Corner
(
98-1067-1103;
Mon–Sat noon–10pm, Sun 4–10pm), a hole-in-the-wall kebab counter in Khan Market serving legendary mutton seekh kababs, wrapped in light roomali rotis (Rs 55), from a tiny kitchen manned by a squadron of brothers who’ve continued what their father started back in 1972. These delicious, juicy meat-filled rolls are prepared while you wait and served as a take-away snack; you can hang around and munch them on the spot, or smuggle a batch into your hotel room and sit down to a feast.
Be warned:
They’re utterly addictive. Ask for onions and green chutney if you’d like to add a spicy edge, and be prepared for a deliciously decadent sauce to dribble down your chin. To get there, seek out the crowd of devotees that inevitably forms (at 75 Middle Lane); it’s right next to The Kitchen, a pretentious and anonymous neon-lit cafe.

SHOPPING

The Delhi shopping experience is every bit as exciting as that found in Mumbai and Jaipur, but the sprawling size of the city makes it difficult to cover all in one day—best to concentrate on one area at a time. If this is your first port of call, try not to load your luggage too early with stuff to take home; best to arrange for it to be shipped directly—ask your hotel to help you arrange this. There are literally hundreds of courier companies in the city; either ask your hotel to take care of it, or catch a cab to the closest courier (again, staff at any of our recommended hotels can recommend where to go) and ship it off yourself—it costs surprisingly little and we have always (touch wood!) been greeted by the welcome sight of our much cherished parcels on our return.

It is probably a good idea to kick off your shopping expedition with a stop at Dilli Haat (reviewed below) to get a perspective of the range of regional arts and crafts, and approximate prices. And if something here really captures your heart, purchase it and have it shipped home, for it may not be available when you return. Note that most shops (and markets) are open from 10am to 7pm and are closed on Sunday, unless mentioned otherwise. Besides the areas described below, you can spend an entire day covering the old city of Shahjahanabad (see “The Top Attractions,” earlier in this section). Finally, keep in mind that the recommended shops that follow are only a fraction of what’s out there; if you know what you’re looking for, it’s best to inquire at both your hotel and the Janpath tourist office for alternatives.

Connaught Place
If you want to get an idea of what lies ahead on your travels, visit a few of the 22
State Government Emporiums
that line Baba Kharak Singh Marg; some recommended options are Himachal for blankets and shawls in particular (
011/2336-3087
); Tamil Nadu (“Poompuhar”) for sandalwood objects (
011/2336-3913
); Uttar Pradesh (“Gangotri”) for the stone-inlay work made famous by the Taj, as well as copper/brasswork and leather goods (
011/2336-4723
);
Kashmir Emporium
for superb carpets; and Orissa (Utkalika) for fabrics and traditional paintings (the latter off the beaten tourist track). If you’re not moving on to Rajasthan, don’t miss visiting both this and
Gurjari Emporium.
These State Government Emporiums (like
Central Cottage Industries Emporium
(
www.cottageemporiumindia.com
) on nearby Janpath) have fixed prices, so you are spared the incessant haggling you’ll have to master elsewhere. One place where it’s worth bargaining is
Tibetan Market
(on Janpath), where it is said you will pick up a better selection of items (from antique locks to silver jewelry) at better prices than you will anywhere in Tibet. Having walked its length, you will find yourself in Connaught Place, the retail heart of imperial Delhi, where hundreds of outlets vie for your rupees. Visit
Banaras House
for saris and the most beautiful fabrics on earth (N-13 Connaught Place, opposite Scindia House;
011/2331-4751
). Head to
Jain Super Store
(172 Palika Bazaar, Gate 6;
011/2332-1031;
www.jainperfumers.com
) for perfumes, incense, and teas; it also has a store on Janpath called
Arihant Fragrances
(17 Main Market;
011/2335-3949
),
which sells lovely silver jewelry alongside fabulous scented products. Stop at
Shaw Brothers
(Shop 8, Palika Bazaar;
011/2332-9080;
www.shaw-brothers.com
) for pure, high-quality Kashmiri shawls and elegant Pashminas—even if you don’t buy, this is pretty much a must-see (note that the main showroom is in Defence Colony; call
011
/
4155-0858
for free transport if you’re very serious about buying). For beautiful (and expensive) gemstones, gold jewelry, and bridalwear, try
Bholanath Brothers
(L-23 Connaught Circus;
011/2341-8630
) or nearby
Kapur di Hatti
(L-16;
011/2341-7183
), which also has Kundan jewelry. The most famous shop in Connaught Place is
Fabindia
(see review below), specializing in stylish ethnic Indian homewear and clothing for all ages, at unbelievably low prices. Along the same lines is
The Shop
(10, Regal Bldg., Parliament St.;