India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (340 page)

Another good walk takes you through Old Manali (center of cheap backpackers’ accommodations), the temple dedicated to Manu, and beyond to silent hillside paths where you’ll encounter village women passing the day over idle gossip while their men unhurriedly herd goats and cows toward greener pastures at higher altitudes. Most visitors pay a visit to Manali’s two more modern Buddhist
gompas
in the town’s Tibetan quarter south of the bazaar.
Gadhan Thekchhokling gompa
was built in 1969, and is recognizable by its yellow, pagoda-style roof; memorial notices outside draw attention to the extermination of Tibetans in China.

Just 24km (15 miles) short of Manali is
Naggar,
which like Manali is slowly being wrecked by unchecked construction and tourism. Visit the
Nicholas Roerich Museum
(
01902/24-8290
or -8590; Tues–Sun 10am–1pm and 1:30–6pm), where the famous Russian artist lived from 1923 until he died in 1947. In this small but well-maintained museum, paintings and books by the prolific artist and philosopher are on display. In this stunning location, it’s easy to see why Roerich and his wife, Helena, were so inspired by their surroundings (though not everyone feels the same about his artworks). Also part of the estate is the
Urusvati Himalayan Folk Art Museum
(Tues–Sun 10am–6pm), created for the preservation of folk art and craft.

WHERE TO STAY

For those keen on outdoor pursuits like paragliding in summer and skiing in winter, you can skip the towns completely and head directly for
Solang Valley Resort
(
01902/25-6132;
www.solangvalleyresorts.com
; doubles from Rs 6,500), situated only 0.5km (0.3 miles) from the beautiful Solang Valley (about 45 min. from Manali town). Accommodations—in a small cluster of buildings that look like an unfortunate attempt to imitate a Swiss suburb—are very comfortable.

Mandi & Kullu

If you’re traveling by road from Shimla direct to either Manali or Dharamsala, it’s a good idea to take a break en route. In Mandi, 70km (43 miles) south of Kullu,
Raj Mahal
(
01905/22-2401,
-3434 or 98-1602-1126;
www.rajmahalpalace.com
), a creaky-floorboards “palace,” is recommended for its serious time-warp character. Book one of the four enormous Royal Suites (Rs 4,400 double), which showcase an assortment of kitsch furnishings and objets d’art (in one room a stuffed leopard grimaces on a table with rifles for legs!). Generally, the service at Raj Mahal is quite awful, and the ancient plumbing acts up at times, but as a place to lay your head for a night and as a base for visiting nearby Rewalsar, it’s adequate. If you’re after a more typical hotel experience, head on to
Apple Valley Resort
(
01902/26-0001
or -0006;
www.applevalleyresorts.co.in
), just short of Kullu town. Set on the banks of the Beas River, the luridly decorated country-style cabins with ivy-covered walls and stone chimneys are Rs 4,780 double, with all meals; insist on a cabin with a view. However, far better than either of these slightly institutional places is Banjara’s new, magnificently situated
Sojha Retreat
(
www.banjaracamps.com
) way off the beaten track (and a good 117km/73 miles, or 4 hr., short of Manali). Getting there requires quite a detour, heading first in the direction of Kinnaur before heading north of the Jalori Pass (3,223m/10,571 ft.), but its sublime mountain setting makes it a destination in its own right, with great walks (you can trek to Raghupur Fort or Serolser Lake) and excellent trout fishing in the nearby Tirthan River. A night in one of the 10 big pine rooms with attached bathrooms costs Rs 4,400 double, including all meals and taxes.

Manali

For the most atmospheric room in town, you’re best off in an original lodge apartment at
Jimmy Johnson Lodge
(aka Johnson Hotel, but not to be confused with the adjacent Johnson’s Lodge) or at
Negi’s Hotel Mayflower;
even better for a peaceful stay farther away from the main bazaar, is
Casa Bella Vista,
which has an inkling of small town glamour about it (all three are reviewed below). Alternatively, one of the most comfortable places in the vicinity of Manali is
Span Resorts,
which enjoys a superb riverside location (also reviewed below). If none of the following recommendations are available, Manali’s
Private Hoteliers’ Information Centre
(The Mall, near the taxi stand) is well established and can assist you in finding suitably priced accommodations if you haven’t prebooked. Note that during the busy season (mid-Apr to early July) you will have difficulty finding any decent guest accommodations in Manali (not necessarily a bad thing, considering how packed it gets).

Casa Bella Vista
As close as Manali is ever likely to come to a boutique-style lodge, this collection of two large self-contained cottages and two double rooms offers a very comfortable stay with accommodations that are clean, neat, and fairly new. Girimer and his Spanish wife, Marta, spent 3 years building this place and finally opened in 2007; they’ve had the foresight to pick a relatively peaceful location (some distance away from the center, but still with in easy walking distance of the town’s main market and the more bohemian vibe of Old Manali), and have left lots of space so it doesn’t feel cluttered, nor is it likely to become oversubscribed. Part of the setup includes an outdoor cafe with an open-air wood-burning pizza oven—it’s a really relaxing place to enjoy a beer and a simple meal (although you may feel sorry for the waiter running up and down the stairs to the kitchen). Already, it’s attracting its fair share of wealthy, sophisticated Indian families come to unwind on the lawn or browse at the small women’s boutique that adjoins the restaurant and library area.
Note:
In 2010, the couple will be opening a new guesthouse at the end of the same road.

Log Hut Rd., Manali 175 131.
01902/25-1985
or 98-1669-9663.
www.casabellavistamanali.com
. 2 cottages and 2 rooms. Rs 3,500 deluxe double, Rs 11,100 cottage (3 bedrooms; 6 people); Rs 900 extra person over 12; Rs 500 extra child 5–12. Rates exclude 10% tax. MC, V.
Amenities:
Restaurant; beer served; badminton; children’s playground; Wi-Fi (in restaurant; free). In room: TV, DVD (in cottage), fireplace (in cottage), heater, kitchen (in cottage).