India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (341 page)

Jimmy Johnson Lodge
Set among lovely lawns, this “lodge” was the first inhabited property in New Manali, and it offers a choice of vintage or modern accommodations not too far from the thick of things. Now run by Piya, the cosmopolitan granddaughter of the man who built the original stone lodge apartments, Johnson’s may be relatively close to the bazaar, but it remains a tranquil spot with lovely views. If you opt for one of the slate, stone, and wood guest rooms in the upper complex, ask for a corner unit—these are larger and have extra windows from which to enjoy the mountain scenes. If you’d prefer an old-fashioned experience, the three huge ivy-covered stone-walled balconied suites (“cottages”) in the original building are atmospheric curiosities, with aging furnishings, original fittings, and loads of space. Wood-beam ceilings, screened windows, and small, homey kitchens add to the ambience. Ask for cottage II, which is the neatest and quietest, although a bit pricier than the rest. A real highlight here is the presence of Manali’s chicest dining option.

Circuit House Rd., Manali 175 131.
01902/25-3023,
-3764, or 98-1627-3023. Fax 01902/24-5123.
www.johnsonhotel.in
. [email protected]. 18 units, all with shower only. In season Rs 2,250 standard double, Rs 2,500 deluxe double, Rs 5,000–Rs 5,625 cottage (sleeps 4). Rates discounted in off season. Rates exclude 10% tax. MC, V (credit cards payments have a 21⁄2% surcharge).
Amenities:
Restaurant (The Johnson’s Café; see “Where to Dine,” below), bar; airport transfers (drop only; Rs 1,500); room service. In room: TV, fan or heater on request.

Negi’s Hotel Mayflower
In a town overflowing with characterless hotels, this handsome, unpretentious, and comfortable option comes as quite a relief. Rooms are massive, with wooden floors and paneling, rocking chairs by the fireplace, tasteful lamps with rice-paper shades, desks in cozy corners, warm sitting areas, and spotless bathrooms (with bathtubs) overlooking the pine forests—what more could you possibly want? Even the standard double rooms have enough room for a few children. Best of all is the veranda that runs the length of the facade, furnished with wicker chairs to lounge around in while sipping cups of lemon tea. The extremely reserved proprietor keeps a low profile, but thankfully not in the kitchen—his Irish stew, roast lamb, caramel custard with stewed apricots, and bread and butter pudding are legendary. Manager Dharamendra looks after each of his guests with real care and can help with planning a detailed itinerary.

Club House Rd., Manali 175 131.
01902/25-2104
or -0256. Fax 01902/25-3923.
www.negismayflower.com
. [email protected]. 19 units. Rs 2,200 double, Rs 2,500 suite; Rs 350 extra bed. Rates exclude 10% tax. MC, V.
Amenities:
2 restaurants (1 in the garden); airport transfers (Rs 900–Rs 2,000); room service. In room: TV, fireplace (in some), heater.

Span Resorts
A riverside location, 15km (9 1⁄3 miles) from the center of Manali, makes this resort a peaceful respite from the crowds, enhanced by the generous range of amenities and outdoor activities on offer. Accommodations are in stone-and-wood cottages shaped like stars and spread around well-maintained grounds; they’re comfortable and offer a fair degree of privacy. Riverside units, with wooden floors, are the best. There isn’t a heck of a lot of space, but each cottage has a fireplace and a covered porch from which to appreciate the relaxed setting and mountain views. There is plenty to keep you occupied during the snowy season, including what may be the best-stocked bar in the state.

Kullu-Manali Hwy., P.O. Katrain 175 129. Info
01902/24-0138
or -0538. Fax 01902/24-0140.
www.spanresorts.com
. [email protected]. Reservations: Vijaya (1st Floor), 17 Barakhamba Rd., New Delhi 110 001.
011/2331-1434.
Fax 011/2335-3148. 30 units. Rs 6,300 standard double, Rs 6,800 deluxe double, Rs 7,800 elite double. Rates include breakfast; 10% tax extra. 25% discount in off season. AE, DC, MC, V.
Amenities:
2 restaurants, card room, bar; badminton; basketball; billiards; children’s park; croquet; darts; fishing; heath club; library; minigolf; outdoor pool; room service; tennis; table tennis. In room: A/C, TV, minibar.

WHERE TO DINE

Cool cafe-style joints are all the rage in Manali—especially in the backpacker-haunted quarter of
Old Manali,
where you can sit for hours, chilling out to the pleasant vibrations of good music, decent coffee, and a generally laidback crowd; the best of these is
The Lazy Dog Café
(reviewed below). Bear in mind that most of these joints don’t take credit cards (they’re usually only open in the summer months, Apr–Oct, so operate cash businesses), and on the odd occasion you might be forced to put up with ill-mannered dope-smoking groups. Although you’ll just as easily find a crowd of very sociable, mindful types.

If you’re prepared to travel a bit to track down good Tibetan cuisine, ask your driver to head for
Phunsok,
a family run eatery on the riverbank 2.5km (1 1⁄2 miles) from Manali toward Solang (it’s on the left-hand side just ahead of the turn to Vashisht). Food is freshly cooked so don’t expect it to arrive in any hurry; seating is outdoors, and you can enjoy the scenery while you wait. For fine Tibetan fare (and a very warm, sociable vibe) closer to town, stop by Old Manali’s
Yangkhor Garden
(
01902/25-4160
or 98-0525-7981), presided over by a jolly Tibetan mother figure named Kumsamg. It’s a seasonal restaurant (which shifts to Goan in the winter) and feels bit like a fifties diner, with red vinyl sofa benches, a TV in the corner, classic rock tunes, and an intimate lounge atmosphere—not to mention a photo of the Dalai lama peering down at you from one wall. The ceiling is strung with bags of water said to scare away the flies—and it seems to work. Kumsamg’s menu is a mixed and multifangled one; Italian, Indian, and even Chinese items are available, but stick to the Tibetan dishes, and ask Kumsamg to help you understand the difference between
thukpa, tingmo,
thanthuk, and fingsha;
if you can’t decide, ask for a plate of steaming
momos
(dumplings).