Pie and Pastry Bible (13 page)

FOOD PROCESSOR METHOD

Cut the butter into small (about ¾-inch) cubes. Wrap it in plastic wrap and freeze it until frozen solid, at least 30 minutes. Place the flour, salt, optional baking powder, and cayenne pepper in a reclosable gallon-size freezer bag and freeze it for at least 30 minutes.

Place the flour mixture in a food processor with the metal blade and process for a few seconds to combine. Set the bag aside. Add the Cheddar cheese and process for about 20 seconds or until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add the frozen butter cubes and pulse until none of the butter is larger than the size of a pea. (Toss with a fork to see it better.) Remove the cover and add the water and vinegar. Pulse until most of the butter is reduced to the size of small peas. The mixture will be in particles and will not hold together. Spoon it into the plastic bag.

Holding both ends of the bag opening with your fingers, knead the mixture by alternately pressing it, from the outside of the bag, with the knuckles and heels of your hands until the mixture holds together in one piece and feels slightly stretchy when pulled.

Wrap the dough with plastic wrap, flatten it into a disc, and refrigerate for at least 45 minutes, preferably overnight.

HAND METHOD

Place a medium mixing bowl in the freezer to chill. Cut the butter into small (about ¾-inch) cubes. Wrap it in plastic wrap and refrigerate it for at least 30 minutes.

Place the flour, salt, optional baking powder, and cayenne pepper in a medium bowl and whisk to combine. Add the Cheddar cheese and rub the mixture between your fingers to blend it into the flour until it resembles coarse meal. Spoon the mixture, together with the cold butter, into a reclosable gallon-size freezer bag. Expel any air from the bag and close it. Use a rolling pin to flatten the butter into thin flakes. Place the bag in the freezer for at least 10 minutes or until the butter is very firm.

Transfer the flour mixture to the chilled bowl, scraping the sides of the bag. Set the bag aside. Sprinkle the ice water and vinegar onto the mixture, tossing it lightly with a rubber spatula. Spoon the loose mixture back into the plastic bag.

Holding both ends of the bag opening with your fingers, knead the mixture by alternately pressing it, from the outside of the bag, with the knuckles and heels of your hands until the mixture holds together in one piece and feels slightly stretchy when pulled.

Wrap the dough with plastic wrap, flatten it into a disc, and refrigerate for at least 45 minutes, preferably overnight.

STORE

Refrigerated, up to 2 days; frozen, up to 3 months.

POINTERS FOR SUCCESS

This dough needs to be kneaded until stretchy so that it is strong enough to use for wrapping around a freestanding meat loaf and not tear during baking.

MIRACLE FLAKY LARD PIE CRUST

F
or years I wondered why people raved about lard pastry. Mine was either falling-apart-tender or flaky and tough. But I’m glad to have persevered, because a lard crust made well has no equal. It is more tender, more flaky, and more crisp than any other and doesn’t shrink even if baked only an hour after mixing. It also browns less fast than a butter crust, making it convenient for pies that require longer baking.

Lard crust is ideal for savory pastries. You can use half butter, but it is not quite as light, though very close, and for savory food, I prefer the flavor of all lard.

Pastry flour produces the most tender crust. I like to roll out the dough on whole wheat flour for extra texture and flavor, which is compatible with the lard flavor. The success of this crust depends on the quality and temperature of the lard.

PASTRY FOR A 9-INCH PIE SHELL OR A 9½- BY 1-INCH TART SHELL MAKES: 13 OUNCES/370 GRAMS
INGREDIENTS	MEASURE	WEIGHT
	VOLUME	OUNCES	GRAMS
If using all purpose flour, reduce the water by 1 teaspoon for more tenderness.
†Use teaspoon if using rendered caul fat.
‡If using commercial lard, add ½ cup plus 2 teaspoons; if using rendered caul fat, use ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon (the weight remains the same).
pastry flour or bleached all-purpose flour	1 cups + 4 teaspoons 1 cups (dip and sweep method)	6.5 ounces	184 grams
salt	½ teaspoon†	•	•
baking powder	teaspoon	•	•
lard, cold	approx. ½ cup‡	4 ounces	113 grams
ice water	¼ liquid cup	2 ounces	59 grams
cider vinegar	4 teaspoons	0.7 ounce	20 grams
whole wheat pastry flour or whole wheat flour	approx. 2 tablespoons	•	•

Place a medium mixing bowl in the freezer to chill.

Place the flour, salt, and baking powder in a reclosable gallon-size freezer bag, and whisk them together. Using a melon bailer, scoop ½- to 1-inch balls of the lard directly into the flour, shaking the bag occasionally to distribute and cover them with the flour. If the room is warm and the lard starts getting very soft, place the bag in the freezer for about 10 minutes before proceeding. If it is still firm but squishable once it’s all been added, using a rolling pin, roll together the lard and flour until the lard is in thin flakes. Place the bag in the freezer for at least 30 minutes.

Empty the flour mixture into the cold bowl, scraping the sides of the bag to release all of it. Set the bag aside. Sprinkle on the ice water and vinegar, tossing gently with a rubber spatula to incorporate it evenly. Spoon the mixture back into the plastic bag. (If using caul fat, which is softer, the dough will already hold together, so it’s easier to empty it onto a piece of plastic wrap and knead it lightly from the outside of the wrap.)

Holding both ends of the bag opening with your fingers, knead the mixture by alternately pressing it, from the outside of the bag, with the knuckles and heels of your hands until the mixture holds together in one piece and feels slightly stretchy when pulled.

Sprinkle the dough on both sides with a little whole wheat flour, wrap it with plastic wrap, flatten it into a disc, and refrigerate for at least 45 minutes, preferably overnight.

STORE

Refrigerated, up to 2 days; frozen, up to 3 months.

NOTE

When rolling the dough, roll it directly on the counter or on plastic wrap. Sprinkle both sides of the dough and the counter or plastic wrap amply with whole wheat flour as needed to keep it from sticking. (The whole wheat flour will not toughen it and will give it extra crunch and a lovely, wheaty flavor.)

RENDERING LARD

When you render your own, you see what a beautiful creamy fat lard can be. Caul fat is easiest to render and stays the softest, but it is hard to find (see page 640). Leaf lard, the fat from around the kidneys, also has excellent flavor. A butcher will sometimes be willing to special-order it.