Pie and Pastry Bible (165 page)

EQUIPMENT

A heavy saucepan, at least 5-cup capacity, ideally with a nonstick lining

In the saucepan, stir together the sugar and
cup of the water until the sugar is completely moistened. In a small saucepan, heat the remaining water until very hot and set it aside.

Heat the sugar syrup, stirring constantly, until the sugar dissolves and the syrup is bubbling. Stop stirring completely and allow it to boil undisturbed until it turns a deep amber (380°F.). Immediately remove it from the heat and slowly and carefully pour the remaining hot water into the caramel. It will bubble up furiously.

Return the caramel to low heat and use a high-temperature heat-resistant rubber spatula or a porcelain or wooden spoon to stir the mixture until smooth, scraping up the thicker part that settles on the bottom. Simmer it for 5 to 10 minutes, or until reduced to ¾ cup. Pour it into a heatproof glass measure and set it aside until cool. Stir in the optional liqueur.

Use a spoon to pour the caramel onto the dessert plates or drizzle it on top of a tart.

STORE

Room temperature, indefinitely.

POINTERS FOR SUCCESS

See page 601.

UNDERSTANDING

I adore the flavor of caramel, so I like to have as much depth of flavor as possible without any burnt flavor. I like to bring it up to 380°F. for maximum flavor. The darker you make the caramel, the less sweet it will seem, but you risk burning it if you don’t have an absolutely accurate thermometer (see page 673).

It’s best to have the water hot to avoid splattering when added to the hot caramel. Cold water, however, speeds the cooling and is practical if you’re pressured for time, but it must be added very slowly.

If unrefined sugar is used, the flavor will be more delicious, but over a period of weeks the sauce may crystallize because of impurities in the sugar.

CARAMEL FOR DIPPING

T
his is a transparent hard caramel that graces the tops of the cream puffs for the Gâteau St.-Honoré (page 538).

MAKES: ½ CUP
INGREDIENTS	MEASURE	WEIGHT
		VOLUME	OUNCES	GRAMS
sugar	1 cup	7 ounces	200 grams
water	liquid cup	2.7 ounces	78 grams
cream of tartar	teaspoon	•	•

EQUIPMENT

A heavy saucepan, at least 5-cup capacity, ideally with a nonstick lining

In the saucepan, stir together the sugar, water, and cream of tartar until the sugar is completely moistened. Heat, stirring constantly, until the sugar dissolves and the syrup is bubbling. Stop stirring completely and allow it to boil undisturbed until it turns a pale amber (350° to 360°F.). Immediately remove it from the heat and pour the caramel into a heatproof 1-cup glass measure. (This retains the heat, keeping the caramel fluid, and it can be placed in the microwave to reheat if necessary. If you don’t have a microwave, leave it in the pan.)

NOTE

Caramel can be made with no water by constantly stirring the sugar to prevent uneven browning. If the caramel will be used for dipping, just a few drops of lemon juice can be added to prevent crystallization. I find it far easier to add a little water to dissolve the sugar before allowing it to caramelize. The resulting caramel seems just as hard. Adding a large quantity of water, on the other hand, slows down caramelization, which results in a softer, stickier caramel.

POINTERS FOR SUCCESS

Most important: When making caramel, be careful to concentrate every moment. Sugar burns are extremely painful.

Do not make any form of caramel other than caramel sauce in humid weather—it will be sticky.

Use refined sugar that is absolutely free of impurities, to prevent crystallization.

To further prevent crystallization, do not allow any sugar crystals to get on the sides of the pan, and be sure to moisten all the sugar with the water. Stop stirring entirely as soon as it comes to a boil. If using a thermometer, be sure to rinse it and dry it if removing and reinserting in the syrup. If any sugar remains on the thermometer, it will cause crystallization.

Use a pan that conducts heat well (such as unlined copper, aluminum, or anodized aluminum) so that cooking stops soon after it is removed from the heat. Alternatively, have ready a larger pan or sink partly filled with cold water to immerse the bottom of the pan. Do not use a pan with a tin or nonstick lining, as its melting point is below that of caramel.
^*

To determine the color of the caramel, use an accurate thermometer or drop a bit of caramel on a white surface such as a porcelain spoon or a plate. When making spun sugar, too light a caramel produces a ghostly effect, too dark produces a brassy color when spun.