Sunday Brunch (2 page)

COOKING TIPS AND GUIDELINES

EGGS—PERFECT EVERY TIME

Poaching

The easiest way to poach eggs is in an egg poacher pan. This consists of a shallow saucepan with a poaching frame that has cups for the eggs and a lid. The advantage of this neat and efficient method is that it produces softly cooked eggs that are uniform in shape.

Another technique is to cook the eggs in a large, heavy frying pan of simmering water to which 1 tbsp of white vinegar has been added for every 1-qt/960-ml of water. (The vinegar helps the eggs hold together.) The eggs should be added to the pan, one at a time, by breaking each onto a saucer, and then sliding it in. It is also helpful, but not essential, to stir the water with a wooden spoon while the eggs are poaching to help them cook evenly. Cooked eggs are best removed with a slotted spoon or spatula.

Frying

For this quick method, a heavy or nonstick frying pan is a must. You melt butter (count on 1½ to 2 tsp per egg) in the pan over medium heat and, when it is just starting to foam, add the eggs, one at a time, by breaking each onto
a saucer, and then sliding it in. The heat should be reduced to low once all the eggs are added. The eggs need to be basted with the warm butter until the whites are set but the yolks still soft.

Scrambling

The secret to extra creamy, moist scrambled eggs is to incorporate bits of butter or cream cheese into the beaten eggs before cooking. Butter or even oil is then heated in a nonstick frying pan set over medium heat. Once the beaten eggs are poured into the pan, they should be stirred constantly, until set but still glistening.

Baking

All you need to make baked or shirred eggs are small individual baking dishes. Crème brûlée dishes or custard cups both work well. You simply butter them, slide in the eggs, and add seasonings. The trick is to check on the eggs once they start to set and take them out when the whites are firm and the yolks are still soft.

Omelet Making

Many people are intimidated by the thought of making omelets, but nothing could be simpler or quicker if you remember several things. A good frying pan is an essential—a nonstick or well-seasoned cast-iron one works best. Second, always add enough butter or oil to the pan so that the omelet will cook evenly and not stick. And third, make certain the temperature is hot enough so that the egg mixture will begin to set when poured into the pan, but not burn. Finally, you’ll need to tilt the pan several times and lift up the edges of the eggs as they cook to let some of the uncooked mixture run underneath.

G
RIDDLE
S
ECRETS

Pancakes and Waffles

When combining the dry ingredients for pancake or waffle batters, it is important to whisk well so that the baking powder, in particular, is well distributed. When adding the dry ingredients to the liquid ones or vice versa, mix just until combined, but do not overbeat.

For pancakes, using either a griddle or large, heavy frying pan will yield griddle cakes that cook evenly and brown nicely. For medium-size griddle cakes, use a ¼-cup/60-ml ladle or measuring cup. Pancakes are ready to be turned when the bottoms are brown and bubbles appear on top. Cooked pancakes can be kept warm for a few minutes by placing them in a single layer on a heated platter and covering them loosely with foil.

For waffles, it’s always a good idea to coat your waffle iron with nonstick spray even if it has a nonstick surface. Set it on the medium-high setting and follow the manufacturer’s
directions. For medium-size waffles, use a ½-cup/120-ml ladle or measuring cup. Keep cooked waffles warm by placing them on a baking sheet in a low oven until all the waffles are cooked.

B
AKING
N
OTES FOR
Q
UICK
B
READS

• For muffins, scones, biscuits, popovers, and other quick breads, it’s essential for the oven temperature to be as accurate as possible. Keep a thermometer in the oven to verify the temperature.
  
• Always give the oven plenty of time, usually about 20 minutes or longer, to preheat before baking.
  
• Eggs used in baking batters are best at room temperature.
  
• Use the type of flour called for in the recipe. The scones in this book are extra tender because they are made with cake flour rather than all-purpose flour.
  
• When baking muffins, grease the tins even if they are nonstick, or use paper liners.
  
• Be aware that baking times can vary slightly from those listed in the directions of a recipe.
  

EQUIPMENT ESSENTIALS

Brunch cookery does not require a lot of fancy equipment, but there are some basics that are helpful to have on hand. Consider the following a quick checklist.

For the Stove Top

• One medium and one large, heavy frying pan, preferably cast iron and/or nonstick
  
• One heavy griddle, if possible a large one that covers two burners
  

For the Oven

• Two large, heavy baking sheets, at least one that is rimmed
  
• Two standard and two mini-muffin tins, preferably nonstick
  
• Two 9-in/23-cm tart pans, one with a removable bottom
  
• One medium and one large oven-to-table baking dish
  
• Set of six 4- to 6-
  OZ
  /115- to 170-g ramekins or custard cups
  

Useful Utensils

• Whisks, rubber spatulas (heat-resistant ones are particularly useful), and metal spatulas
  
• Stand or hand mixer
  

Special Equipment

• Waffle iron
  
• Popover pan
  
• Egg poacher pan
  

A
long time ago when I was taking my first cooking classes, a student asked our talented Cordon Bleu-trained teacher what her favorite ingredients were. Without missing a beat, she reeled off a list and, not surprisingly, eggs were at the top. What she loved about them was their versatility.

When it comes to brunch, nothing is more popular or lends itself more readily to variation than eggs. You can poach, fry, scramble, and bake eggs, or turn them into omelets, all in only a few minutes time. The recipes in this chapter reflect wide-ranging choices. Beautiful poached eggs, with pillowy-soft whites and golden, runny yolks, are the basis for a New Orleans-inspired rendition of eggs Benedict. Another delectable entrée stars fried eggs, served sunny-side up, atop sautéed wild mushrooms and toasted sourdough slices. There’s also a classic version of exceptionally creamy scrambled eggs along with several variations. Baked or shirred eggs are simplicity itself and can be enhanced, as they are here, with tempting garnishes like fresh crab and crème fraîche. For omelet lovers, you’ll find three mouthwatering, distinctive fillings.

Whatever method you choose, always make an effort to buy the freshest eggs possible. Look for locally raised ones at farmers’ markets; they often boast deep golden yolks due to the feed given the hens. If purchasing eggs at the supermarket, pick up the carton with the latest expiration date. Although I am partial to brown eggs (I like that rustic hue), whites work equally well. The choice is yours.

Eggs are the quintessential morning food and often the mainstay of brunches. The entries in this chapter should provide ample inspiration for making one of nature’s most glorious foods into something extra special.

Poached Eggs, Asparagus, and Chorizo

Poached eggs set atop a mound of sleek asparagus spears, garnished with crispy bits of Spanish chorizo and toasted bread crumbs, make a simple yet impressive morning entrée. The sausage and bread crumbs contrast with the tender asparagus as well as with the soft eggs with their runny, sauce-like yolks.

Serves 4

PREP TIME:

15 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME:

45 minutes

MAKE AHEAD:

Partially

1 ½ tbsp olive oil

½ cup/30 g coarse fresh bread crumbs (see
cooking tip
)

4
OZ
/115 g Spanish chorizo cut into ½-in/12-mm cubes (use the Spanish-style chorizo in casing, not loose Mexican-style chorizo)

1 ¼ lb/680 g medium asparagus

Kosher salt

1 tbsp unsalted butter, diced

2 tsp fresh lemon juice

2 to 3 tbsp white or cider vinegar

4 eggs

Freshly ground black pepper

COOKING TIP:

To make bread crumbs, use a 1- to 2-day-old good-quality peasant or country bread with crusts removed. Process large chunks of it in a food processor to make coarse crumbs. Sourdough bread works particularly well.

1. Heat 1 tbsp of the olive oil until hot in a medium, heavy frying pan set over medium heat. Add the bread crumbs and cook, tossing constantly, until golden and crisp, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the crumbs to a plate. (Crumbs can be prepared 1 hour ahead; cover and leave at room temperature.)

2. Heat the remaining ½ tbsp oil in the same frying pan set over medium heat. When hot, add the chorizo and stir until lightly browned, 3 minutes. Remove and set aside. (Chorizo can be prepared 1 hour ahead; leave at room temperature.)

3. Trim and discard 2 to 3 in/5 to 7.5 cm of the tough bases of the aparagus spears. Add the asparagus and 1 tsp salt to a large frying pan filled halfway with simmering water. Cook until the spears are just tender, 4 minutes. Drain and toss the asparagus in a large bowl with the butter and lemon juice. Season with salt and cover with foil.

4. Bring a large frying pan filled halfway with water to a boil. Add the vinegar and gently break each egg into a saucer and slide it into the water. Swirl the water with a wooden spoon while the eggs are cooking. Cook until the eggs are just set but the yolks are still soft, 3 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain well. (If you have an egg poacher, cook according to the manufacturer’s directions until the eggs are set.)

5. Mound some asparagus spears on each of four dinner plates. Top each serving with a poached egg and sprinkle with the chorizo and bread crumbs. Season the eggs with several grinds of pepper and a pinch of salt and serve.

Eggs Benedict with New Orleans Accents

I spent my college years in New Orleans, where frequent trips for breakfast at Brennan’s always included eggs Benedict. Theirs were prepared the traditional way with a toasted English muffin that was topped with Canadian bacon, a poached egg, and classic hollandaise. For a new version, I replaced the muffin with andouille-studded cornbread, and the bacon with sliced tomatoes. Of course, I included the anchor of this dish—a soft poached egg—and for the hollandaise I added a spicy accent of cayenne. I also made the sauce quickly in a processor rather than slowly at the stove.