Sunday Roasts (22 page)

Fragrant fresh tarragon and mint are the key players in this simple composed butter. They lend color as well as bright, refreshing flavors to the melange. A hint of tarragon vinegar counters the butter’s sweetness.

Makes about ½ cup/140 g

COST
: Inexpensive

PREP TIME
: 10 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 15 minutes

½ cup/115 g unsalted butter, at room temperature

2 tbsp minced fresh tarragon

2 tbsp minced fresh mint

1 tbsp tarragon vinegar

1 tsp kosher salt

In a medium bowl, use a fork to stir together the butter, tarragon, mint, vinegar, and salt until well blended. (The butter can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature before using.)

SERVE WITH
: This butter is used to baste the Orange-Studded Leg of Lamb with Spring-Herbs Butter and to flavor the Spring Vegetables Tossed in Spring-Herbs Butter . Also try it on roasted salmon fillets, roast chicken, and asparagus.

Although only a handful of ingredients is needed for this seasoned butter, they all work together to produce a rich, complex taste. Fresh tarragon and crushed fennel seeds offer a hint of anise flavor, while the heat of the mustard and the sharp accent of vinegar balance the sweetness of the butter.

Makes about ¾ cup/170 g

COST
: Inexpensive

PREP TIME
: 10 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 15 minutes

½ cup/115 g unsalted butter, at room temperature

4 tbsp/7 g minced fresh tarragon

1½ tbsp Dijon mustard

1 tbsp tarragon vinegar

1½ tsp fennel seeds, crushed

½ tsp kosher salt

In a medium nonreactive bowl, mix together the butter, tarragon, mustard, vinegar, fennel seeds, and salt until well blended. (The butter can be prepared 1 day ahead; cover and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature before using.)

SERVE WITH
: This butter is a key flavoring for the Roast Veal with Tarragon-Mustard Butter and the Crown Roast of Pork with Tarragon-Mustard Butter . It would also be delicious brushed on roasted salmon or chicken or as a seasoning for asparagus or fresh peas.

Creamy, smooth, and ivory-hued, this garlic-scented mayonnaise is a specialty of Provence. It’s a snap to make when you prepare it with a food processor; count on just 10 minutes to whip it up. If you don’t have a food processor, follow the directions for the hand method in the cooking tip at the end of the recipe.

Makes about 2 cups/480 ml

COST
: Inexpensive

PREP TIME
: 10 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 15 minutes when using a food processor and slightly longer for the hand method

3 medium garlic cloves, peeled and minced

½ tsp kosher salt

2 large egg yolks plus 1 large egg, at room temperature (see note)

2 tbsp plus 1 tsp fresh lemon juice

Generous pinch cayenne pepper

¾ cup/180 ml olive oil

¾ cup/180 ml canola or vegetable oil

1.
Use a fork to mash the garlic and salt together in a small bowl until the mixture resembles a coarse paste.

2.
Place the egg yolks, egg, lemon juice, and cayenne pepper in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Process for several seconds until all ingredients are well blended. Combine the oils in a measuring cup with a spout. With the processor running, slowly add the oils in a thin stream through the feed tube until all the oil has been added and the mixture is thick and smooth. (Most processors have a small hole in the bottom of the feed tube that will dispense the oil automatically in a thin stream.) Add the garlic mixture and process for several seconds more.

3.
Place the mayonnaise in a nonreactive serving bowl, cover, and refrigerate. (Mayonnaise can be prepared 2 days ahead; keep covered and refrigerated.)

COOKING TIP
: For handmade mayonnaise, rinse a mixing bowl with hot water and dry it well. Add 3 yolks (instead of 2 yolks and 1 whole egg), the lemon juice, and cayenne. Very slowly, whisk in the oil a drop or two at a time. After ½ cup/120 ml has been added, start to add the oil in a very thin stream. Whisk in the garlic mixture.

SERVE WITH
: This mayo is especially good with roasted fish and is called for in the Blue Heron’s Striped Bass with Summer Herbs, Tomatoes, and Aioli . Use it for sandwiches made with leftover roast beef, lamb, chicken, or veal.

NOTE:
There are uncooked eggs in this recipe. Food safety experts caution that consuming raw eggs can expose you to salmonella contamination. Immune-compromised patients, the very young, and the elderly should not eat raw eggs.

All the classic flavor notes—sweet, tart, hot, and spicy—can be found in this sauce. Although the ingredients are typical of those used in commercial barbecue sauces, this one is so much more complex and delicious. It can be prepared several days ahead and also freezes well.

Makes about 3 cups/810 g

COST
: Inexpensive

PREP TIME
: 20 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 1 hour

4 tsp canola oil

1 cup/125 g chopped onion

1 cup/280 g ketchup/tomato sauce

2/3 cup/130 g packed light brown sugar

2/3 cup/165 ml cider vinegar

¼ cup/60 ml unsulphured molasses/treacle

2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce

2 tbsp instant coffee powder

2 tsp yellow mustard

2 tsp chili powder

1 tsp ground cumin

¼ tsp ground cinnamon

¼ tsp cayenne pepper

In a large, heavy saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. When hot, add the onion and sauté until translucent, for 4 to 5 minutes. Whisk in 1½ cups/360 ml water, the ketchup/tomato sauce, brown sugar, vinegar, molasses/treacle, Worcestershire sauce, coffee powder, mustard, chili powder, cumin, cinnamon, and cayenne pepper. Bring the mixture to a boil, stirring continuously. Lower the heat and simmer until the mixture has reduced to about 3 cups/810 g, for about 30 minutes. (The sauce can be prepared 5 days ahead; cool, cover, and refrigerate. It can also be frozen for up to 2 months. Defrost and reheat when needed.)

SERVE WITH
: This sauce is called for in Four-Hour Roasted Pork Shoulder for Pulled Pork Sandwiches and in Chili-Roasted Baby Backs with Homemade Barbecue Sauce . It’s also delicious brushed on roast chicken.

meat cut equivalents