Sunday Roasts (20 page)

This dish is visually striking with its sleek dark grains of wild rice studded with bursts of color from red and green grapes. There’s an interesting contrast of textures too—both wild and brown rice and some walnuts provide crunch, while the roasted grapes are juicy and soft. This recipe serves twelve, so it is a perfect accompaniment to a big roasted bird.

Serves 12

COST
: Moderate

PREP TIME
: 25 minutes, including toasting the walnuts

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: about 2 hours

6 tbsp/85 g unsalted butter

1 cup/100 g chopped shallots

1 cup/115 g chopped celery

2 cups/430 g wild rice

5 cups/1.2 L chicken broth, plus more if needed

1 tbsp dried thyme

Kosher salt

1 cup/215 g brown rice

1½ cups/225 g red seedless grapes

1½ cups/225 g green seedless grapes

2 tbsp olive oil

1½ tsp balsamic vinegar

1 cup/115 g walnuts, toasted and chopped

1 tbsp grated orange zest

1.
In a large, heavy pot (with a lid) melt the butter over medium heat until hot. Add the shallots and celery. Stir and cook until softened, for about 8 minutes. Add the wild rice and stir to coat with the butter. Add 5 cups/1.2 L of the broth, the thyme, and 1½ tsp salt and bring the mixture to a simmer. Cover and cook for 30 minutes. Add the brown rice and cover and cook for 40 to 50 minutes more, or until all liquid has been absorbed and the rice is tender but still has a little bit of crunch. If necessary, you can add ¼ cup/120 ml or slightly more broth to finish cooking the rice. (The rice can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cool, cover, and refrigerate. Reheat, stirring, over medium-low heat.)

2.
While the rice is cooking, prepare the grapes. Arrange a rack at center position and preheat the oven to 350°F/180°C/gas 4.

3.
Place the grapes on a large, rimmed baking sheet/tray and drizzle them with the oil; using a wooden spoon, stir to coat well. Roast, stirring once, until the grapes begin to wrinkle and some have collapsed, for about 15 minutes. Remove them to a bowl and toss with the balsamic vinegar. (The grapes can be prepared 4 hours ahead; leave at room temperature.)

4.
Stir the walnuts, orange zest, and the grapes and their juices into the rice. Season with salt. Serve the rice mounded in a large shallow bowl.

SERVE WITH
: This beautiful rice would make a glorious side dish to Golden Cider-Roasted Turkey ; “Never Fail” Roast Turkey with Shallot Pan Gravy ; Turkey Breast with Cremini, Porcini, and Pancetta Stuffing ; or as a filling for Crown Roast of Pork with Tarragon-Mustard Butter .

A classic British side dish to roast beef, Yorkshire pudding is prepared with a simple popover-type batter of eggs, flour, milk, and butter, to which pan drippings are added. In this version, the usual beef drippings are replaced with smoky bacon, while another boost of flavor comes from minced fresh sage. The pudding, baked in a shallow pan, puffs up dramatically around the sides while it is in the oven and takes on a rich golden color. The Yorkshire in the name is for one of England’s northern counties where this pudding originated.

Serves 8

COST
: Inexpensive

PREP TIME
: 10 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 1 hour

7 or 8 bacon slices (about 6 oz/170 g), cut into 1-in/2.5-cm pieces

2 tbsp unsalted butter, melted (if needed)

1½ cups/175 g flour

3 tbsp minced fresh sage

1 tsp kosher salt

1½ cups/360 ml whole milk

3 large eggs

1.
Arrange a rack at center position and preheat the oven to 450°F/230°C/gas 8.

2.
In a large, heavy frying pan set over medium heat, fry the bacon until crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon to drain on paper towels/absorbent paper. Transfer the bacon drippings to a heat-proof measuring cup to yield ¼ cup/60 ml. (If necessary, add enough melted butter to make this amount.) Pour the drippings into a 9-by-13-in/23-cm-by-33-cm baking dish and place it in the oven to heat the drippings for 10 minutes.

3.
In a medium bowl, mix together the flour, half of the sage, and salt. In a large bowl, whisk together the milk and eggs. Whisk the flour mixture into the egg mixture until no lumps remain and the mixture is smooth. Stir in two-thirds of the bacon pieces.

4.
Remove the hot baking pan from the oven and, using mitts or potholders (so that you do not burn yourself), tilt the pan several times to spread the drippings evenly over the bottom. Pour the batter into the pan.

5.
Bake for 15 minutes, and then reduce the heat to 350°F/180°C/gas 4. Continue to bake until the pudding is golden brown and puffed, for 12 to 15 minutes more. When done, the sides will have puffed way above the edges of the pan. Do not open the door while baking.

6.
Remove the pudding from the oven. Sprinkle the remaining bacon and sage over the pudding.

COOKING TIP
: If you plan to serve the Standing Rib Roast with Porcini Mushroom Sauce with this Yorkshire pudding, you can easily coordinate the two dishes. During the last 30 minutes of roasting the beef, cook the bacon and prepare the batter for the pudding. Remove the cooked roast and tent it with foil. While the roast is resting, center the rack in the oven and raise the temperature to 450°F/230°C/gas 8. Place the dish with the drippings in the oven for 10 minutes. Add the batter and bake the pudding. Since the roast needs to rest for 35 to 40 minutes, it will be ready to carve when the pudding comes out of the oven.

SERVE WITH
: The Standing Rib Roast with Por-cini Mushroom Sauce is the ideal roast to pair with this side. It would also be delicious with Pepper-Crusted Sirloin Roast with Horseradish Crème Fraîche .

A glorious array of roasted root vegetables distinguishes this bread dressing from others. They add bursts of color and a slight caramelized sweetness to the dish. Don’t let the long list of ingredients keep you from trying this delectable dressing. The vegetables can be roasted and the sourdough bread cubed and toasted a day ahead, so that at serving time a quick assembly and baking is all that is necessary.

Serves 10

COST
: Inexpensive

PREP TIME
: 30 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 2 hours, 30 minutes

6 cups/255 g ½-in/12-mm sourdough bread cubes (without crust)

10-oz/280-g bag frozen pearl onions (see market note)

¾ lb/340 g carrots, peeled and cut into slices ½ in/12 mm thick

¾ lb/340 g parsnips, peeled and cut into slices ½ in/12 mm thick

¾ lb/340 g rutabagas/swedes, peeled and cut into ½-in/12-mm cubes

2/3 cup/165 ml olive oil

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 lb/455 g cremini/brown mushrooms, cleaned and, if large, halved

6 large garlic cloves, peeled

2 tsp dried thyme

2 tsp dried crushed rosemary (see cooking tip)

1½ tsp dried sage leaves, crumbled

3 tbsp unsalted butter, melted, plus more for greasing the baking dish

1½ cups/360 ml reduced-sodium chicken broth, plus more as needed

3 large eggs

1.
Arrange a rack at center position and preheat the oven to 325°F/165°C/gas 3. Spread the bread cubes on a rimmed baking sheet/tray, and bake until dry and lightly browned, tossing once or twice, for 20 to 25 minutes. (The bread can be toasted 1 day ahead; cool, cover, and keep at room temperature.)

2.
Arrange one rack at top position and another at lower position and raise the oven temperature to 425°F/220°C/gas 7.

3.
Place the onions, carrots, parsnips, and rutabagas/swedes on a large rimmed baking sheet/tray and toss with half of the oil. Spread them in a single layer and season generously with salt and pepper. Place the mushrooms and garlic on another rimmed baking sheet/tray and toss with the remaining oil. Spread them in a single layer and salt and pepper generously.

4.
Roast the onions, carrots, parsnips, and rutabagas until tender and brown around the edges, stirring every 15 minutes, for about 50 minutes. Roast the mushrooms and garlic until tender, stirring once, for 20 to 30 minutes.

5.
Combine the vegetables and the mushrooms in a large bowl. In a small bowl, smash the roasted garlic cloves with a fork until pureed. Add the mashed garlic, thyme, rosemary, and sage to the vegetables and toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper. (The vegetables can be prepared 1 day ahead; cool, cover, and refrigerate.)

6.
Arrange a rack at center position and reduce the heat to 375°F/190°C/gas 5. Butter a 9-by-13-in/23-by-33-cm or similar-size baking dish.

7.
Add the bread cubes to the vegetables. In a medium bowl, whisk together the broth, eggs, and 3 tbsp butter, and stir into the vegetables until all the liquids have been absorbed and the mixture is moist. If necessary, add extra broth. Spread the dressing in the prepared dish and bake until lightly browned and crisp on top, for about 35 minutes.

MARKET NOTE
: Frozen pearl onions, which are peeled and ready to use, work fine in this recipe and are a big time-saver. Avoid frozen ones in a cream sauce. Defrost and pat them dry before using.

SERVE WITH
: This is a perfect side to Golden Cider-Roasted Turkey ; “Never Fail” Roast Turkey with Shallot Pan Gravy ; or Turkey Breast with Cremini, Porcini, and Pancetta Stuffing .

It’s the extras—the glistening chutneys, the bracing salsas, the tangy relishes, the aromatic butters—that make roasts complete. They play an essential role, contributing contrasting flavors and textures and bursts of color. If a roast could be compared to that classic wardrobe item, the little black dress, then these extras would be the must-have accessories—the perfect jewelry and whiff of perfume.

Fruit chutneys with their spicy, sweet, and tart flavorings are superb partnered with lamb, turkey, and pork. Both Golden Cider-Roasted Turkey and “Never Fail” Roast Turkey with Shallot Pan Gravy taste even more inviting when topped with spoonfuls of Cranberry and Dried Cherry Chutney. Roast racks of pork served with glorious Apple Chutney create a symphony of textures, flavors, and colors.

Salsas and relishes are beautiful accompaniments to many other roasted main dishes, such as Cumin-Rubbed Pork Tenderloins with Fresh Peach Salsa and Boneless Leg of Lamb with Tomato-Olive Relish. Homemade Barbecue Sauce and Provence’s famous garlic mayo, Aioli, are other condiments that enhance roasted specialties.

Seasoned butters often play dual roles: They baste meat, fish, and poultry while roasting, and then are spooned atop the cooked slices as a garnish. Spring-Herbs Butter is employed both to baste and embellish a leg of lamb, and Tarragon-Mustard Butter plays the same roles for a top loin of veal and a crown roast of pork.

Accessorize, accessorize, the fashion world declares. The same mantra works in the kitchen. Don’t forget those special extras that turn a basic roast into a dazzling ensemble.

My longtime assistant and friend, Emily Bell, is the queen of chutneys. I’ve never been to her house when she didn’t pull a new creation from her pantry. This apple chutney, which she invented one fall, is one of my favorites. Diced Gala apples, with their bright red skins left on, are simmered with onions and spices in a mixture of sugar and vinegar. Sweet, tart, and peppery, this chutney never fails to delight.

Makes about 1½ cups/400 g

COST
: Inexpensive

PREP TIME
: 15 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 45 minutes, plus 15 minutes or more for the chutney to cool

2 large Gala apples, unpeeled

3 tbsp olive oil

1 cup/125 g chopped onion

1 tsp minced garlic

2/3 cup/130 g light brown sugar

2 tsp country-style Dijon mustard

2 tsp minced fresh ginger

¾ tsp ground coriander

¼ tsp ground cinnamon

Generous pinch of cayenne pepper

1/3 cup/165 ml cider vinegar

1.
Halve and core the apples, then cut them into ½-in/12-mm dice.

2.
In a medium, nonreactive saucepan, heat 2 tbsp of the oil over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic and sauté, stirring, until onions are softened, for about 3 to 4 minutes.

3.
Add the remaining 1 tbsp oil to the saucepan and stir in the diced apples. Sauté, stirring frequently, until the apples are translucent and lightly browned, for 5 to 6 minutes. Add the brown sugar, mustard, ginger, coriander, cinnamon, and cayenne and stir until the sugar starts to melt. Add the vinegar and bring the mixture to a simmer. Cook, stirring frequently, until the mixture thickens and the liquids are syrupy, for 10 to 12 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and let the chutney cool to room temperature. (The chutney can be prepared 3 days ahead; cool, cover, and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature for 30 minutes before using.)

SERVE WITH
: This recipe is called for in Racks of Pork with Apple Chutney and would also make a splendid counterpoint to roast poultry and lamb.