The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (187 page)

MAKES
³⁄
₄
CUP

Mix water and mustard in medium bowl until smooth. Add ketchup, Worcestershire, and soy sauce and mix thoroughly.

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

A glaze is the perfect way to enhance mild pork tenderloin—if you can get it to stick. We wanted lean yet tender meat coated with subtle spice and inviting sweetness. First, we settled on a stovetop-to-oven method that gave us a good crust and a moist, tender interior. For a balanced and substantial maple glaze that would adhere to the meat, we mixed the syrup with molasses and mustard, primed the tenderloin with cornstarch so the glaze would bond to it, and applied a second coat of the glaze when the meat was nearly done.

SERVES 6

If the pork is enhanced (injected with a salt solution), do not add salt to the cornstarch mixture in step 1.
If your tenderloins are smaller than 1¹⁄
₄
pounds, reduce the cooking time in step 3. If the tenderloins don’t fit in the skillet initially, let their ends curve toward each other; the meat will eventually shrink as it cooks. Make sure to cook the tenderloins until they turn deep golden brown in step 2 or they will appear pale after glazing. We prefer grade B maple syrup in this recipe. (Don’t be tempted to substitute imitation maple syrup—it will be too sweet.) Be sure to pat off the cornstarch mixture thoroughly in step 1, as any excess will leave gummy spots on the tenderloins.

1.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 375 degrees. Stir ¹⁄
₂
cup maple syrup, molasses, bourbon, cinnamon, cloves, and cayenne together in 2-cup liquid measure; set aside. Whisk cornstarch, sugar, salt, and pepper in small bowl until combined. Transfer cornstarch mixture to rimmed baking sheet. Pat tenderloins dry with paper towels, then roll in cornstarch mixture until evenly coated on all sides. Thoroughly pat off excess cornstarch mixture.

2.
Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Reduce heat to medium and place both tenderloins in skillet, leaving at least 1 inch in between. Cook until well browned on all sides, 8 to 12 minutes. Transfer tenderloins to wire rack set in rimmed baking sheet.

3.
Pour off excess fat from skillet and return to medium heat. Add syrup mixture to skillet, scraping bottom of skillet with wooden spoon to loosen any browned bits, and cook until reduced to ¹⁄
₂
cup, about 2 minutes. Transfer 2 tablespoons glaze to small bowl and set aside. Using remaining glaze, brush each tenderloin with approximately 1 tablespoon glaze. Roast until thickest part of tenderloins registers 130 degrees, 12 to 20 minutes. Brush each tenderloin with 1 tablespoon glaze and continue to roast until thickest part of tenderloins registers 145 degrees, 2 to 4 minutes longer. Remove tenderloins from oven and brush each with remaining glaze; let rest, uncovered, 10 minutes.

4.
While tenderloins rest, stir remaining ¹⁄
₄
cup maple syrup and mustard into reserved 2 tablespoons glaze. Brush each tenderloin with 1 tablespoon mustard glaze. Transfer meat to carving board and slice into ¹⁄
₄
-inch-thick pieces. Serve, passing extra mustard glaze separately.

Substitute dry sherry for bourbon and ¹⁄
₄
teaspoon smoked paprika and 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger for cinnamon, cloves, and cayenne pepper. Omit mustard in step 4.

Substitute 2 tablespoons frozen orange juice concentrate for 2 tablespoons molasses. Omit cinnamon, cloves, and cayenne pepper and add 2 small finely minced canned chipotle chiles plus 2 teaspoons adobo sauce to maple syrup mixture in step 1. Omit mustard in step 4.

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

We wanted a simple, straightforward approach to cooking pork tenderloin without drying it out, and we also wanted a couple of boldly flavored sauces that could accompany our tenderloin for a quick weeknight meal. Cutting the tenderloins into 1¹⁄
₂
-inch-thick medallions and tying them allowed us to create a beautiful sear on all sides in the time it took for the pork to cook through. The searing process had the extra benefit of producing enough fond to create an easy, flavorful pan sauce while the pork rested.

See “TURNING THE TENDERLOIN END PIECE INTO A MEDALLION” illustrations that follow recipe.

See “TYING PORK MEDALLIONS” illustrations that follow recipe.

SERVES 4 TO 6

We prefer natural to enhanced pork (pork that has been injected with a salt solution to increase moistness and flavor) for this recipe, though either will work. Begin checking the doneness of smaller medallions 1 or 2 minutes early; they may need to be taken out of the pan a little sooner.

Pat pork dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add pork cut side down and cook, without moving pieces, until well browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Flip pork and brown on second side, 3 to 5 minutes more. Reduce heat to medium. Using tongs, stand each piece on its side and cook, turning pieces as necessary, until sides are well browned and pork registers 145 degrees, 8 to 12 minutes. Transfer pork to serving platter and tent loosely with aluminum foil; let rest while making pan sauce, then serve.

The number of bacon slices you use will depend on how many medallions you have cut.

Place 12 to 14
bacon slices, slightly overlapping, in pie plate and cover. Cook in microwave until slices shrink and release about ¹⁄
₂
cup fat but are neither browned nor crisp, 1 to 3 minutes. Transfer bacon to paper towels until cool, 2 to 3 minutes. Wrap each piece of pork with 1 slice bacon and secure with 2 toothpicks where ends of bacon strip overlap, inserting toothpicks on angle and gently pushing them through to other side. Season pork with pepper (do not salt) and proceed with browning (time for searing sides may be slightly longer).

MAKES
1¹⁄
₃
CUPS, ENOUGH FOR 1 RECIPE
THICK-CUT PORK TENDERLOIN MEDALLIONS

1.
Combine cider, broth, vinegar, and cinnamon stick in medium saucepan; simmer over medium-high heat until liquid is reduced to 1 cup, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove cinnamon stick and discard. Set sauce aside until pork is cooked.

2.
Pour off any fat from skillet in which pork was cooked. Add 1 tablespoon butter and melt over medium heat. Add shallots and apple and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and beginning to brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove skillet from heat and add Calvados. Return skillet to heat and cook about 1 minute, scraping bottom of skillet with wooden spoon to loosen any browned bits. Add reduced cider mixture, any accumulated pork juices, and thyme; increase heat to medium-high and simmer until thickened and reduced to 1¹⁄
₄
cups, 3 to 4 minutes. Off heat, whisk in remaining 3 tablespoons butter and season with salt and pepper to taste. Pour sauce over pork and serve.

MAKES 1 CUP, ENOUGH FOR 1 RECIPE
THICK-CUT PORK TENDERLOIN MEDALLIONS

Pour off any fat from skillet in which pork was cooked. Add oil and heat skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and beginning to brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Increase heat to medium-high and add broth; bring to simmer, scraping bottom of skillet with wooden spoon to loosen any browned bits. Simmer until liquid is reduced to ¹⁄
₃
cup, 3 to 4 minutes. Add syrup, vinegar, mustard, and any accumulated pork juices and cook until thickened and reduced to 1 cup, 3 to 4 minutes longer. Season with salt and pepper to taste, pour sauce over pork, and serve.

MAKES
³⁄
₄
CUP, ENOUGH FOR 1 RECIPE
THICK-CUT PORK TENDERLOIN MEDALLIONS

Pour off any fat from skillet in which pork was cooked. Add oil and heat skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add ginger and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 15 seconds. Add hoisin sauce, orange juice, broth, and any accumulated pork juices and bring to simmer, scraping bottom of skillet with wooden spoon to loosen any browned bits. Simmer until liquid is reduced to 1 cup, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in sesame oil and scallions. Season with salt and pepper to taste, pour sauce over pork, and serve.