The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (188 page)
Read The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook Online
Authors: The Editors at America's Test Kitchen
Tags: #Cooking
After cutting the tenderloins into symmetrical 1¹⁄
2
-inch medallions, you will inevitably have a few irregularly shaped pieces left over. The tapered end pieces of the tenderloin can be scored, folded, and tied into medallions (as shown here).
1.
Score tenderloin’s tapered end piece.
2.
Fold in half at incision.
3.
Tie medallion with kitchen twine, making sure top and bottom surfaces are flat.
Thick medallions allow for more browning, but they can flop over in the pan. To prevent this, tie each piece with twine or a strip of parcooked bacon secured with two toothpicks.
Kitchen Twine
BACON “TWINE”
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Pork tenderloin has a lot going for it—it’s supremely tender with a buttery, fine-grained texture; it’s easy to prepare; it cooks quickly; and its mild flavor is the perfect backdrop for a variety of sauces. But because it’s so lean, it’s usually served dry and overcooked. We wanted a recipe that would produce flavorful and juicy pork tenderloin every time. After attempting to cook the tenderloin in the oven at a wide range of temperatures, we discovered that the best approach was to start it on the stovetop (for a good sear) and then finish it in the oven (for gentle, even cooking). A pan sauce was a natural way to add flavor. While the meat was in the oven, we had plenty of time to deglaze the skillet and prepare the sauce.
SERVES 4
We prefer natural to enhanced pork (pork that has been injected with a salt solution to increase moistness and flavor) for this recipe. Because two are cooked at once, tenderloins larger than 1 pound apiece will not fit comfortably in a 12-inch skillet. If time allows, season the tenderloins up to 30 minutes before cooking; the seasonings will better penetrate the meat. The recipe will work in a nonstick or a traditional skillet. A pan sauce can be made while the tenderloins roast (recipes follow); if you intend to make a sauce, make sure to prepare all of the sauce ingredients before cooking the pork.
2 | (12- to 16-ounce) pork tenderloins, trimmed |
1¹⁄ | teaspoons kosher salt |
³⁄ | teaspoon pepper |
2 | teaspoons vegetable oil |
1 | recipe pan sauce or chutney (optional) (recipes follow) |
1.
Adjust oven rack to middle position; heat oven to 400 degrees. Sprinkle tenderloins evenly with salt and pepper; rub seasoning into meat. Heat oil in 12-inch ovensafe skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Place both tenderloins in skillet; cook until well browned, 3 minutes. Using tongs, rotate tenderloins ¹⁄
4
turn; cook until well browned, 1 to 2 minutes. Repeat until all sides are browned. Transfer tenderloins to rimmed baking sheet and place in oven (reserve skillet if making pan sauce); roast until tenderloins register 145 degrees, 10 to 16 minutes. (Begin pan sauce, if making, while meat roasts.)
2.
Transfer tenderloins to carving board and tent loosely with aluminum foil (continue with pan sauce, if making); let rest 10 minutes. Cut tenderloins crosswise into ¹⁄
2
-inch-thick slices, arrange on serving platter or individual plates, and spoon sauce, if using, over; serve.
MAKES
1¹⁄
2
CUPS, ENOUGH FOR 1 RECIPE PAN-SEARED OVEN-ROASTED PORK TENDERLOINS
1 | teaspoon vegetable oil |
1 | large onion, halved and sliced ¹⁄ |
³⁄ | cup port |
³⁄ | cup dried cherries |
2 | tablespoons orange marmalade |
3 | tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 3 pieces |
Salt and pepper |
1.
Immediately after placing pork in oven, add oil to still-hot skillet, swirl to coat, and set skillet over medium-high heat; add onion and cook, stirring frequently, until softened and browned around edges, 5 to 7 minutes (if drippings are browning too quickly, add 2 tablespoons water and scrape up browned bits with wooden spoon). Set skillet aside off heat.
2.
While pork is resting, set skillet over medium-high heat and add port and cherries; simmer, scraping bottom of pan with wooden spoon to loosen any browned bits, until mixture is slightly thickened, 4 to 6 minutes. Add any accumulated pork juices and continue to simmer until thickened, about 2 minutes longer. Off heat, whisk in orange marmalade and butter, 1 piece at a time. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
MAKES
¹⁄
2
CUP, ENOUGH FOR 1 RECIPE
PAN-SEARED OVEN-ROASTED PORK TENDERLOINS
A rasp-style grater is the best way to break down the garlic to a fine paste. Another option is to put the garlic through a press and then finish mincing it to a paste with a knife. If your garlic cloves contain green sprouts or shoots, remove the sprouts before grating—their flavor is bitter and hot. The initial cooking of the garlic off heat will prevent scorching.
10 | garlic cloves, peeled and grated to fine paste on rasp-style grater (2 tablespoons) |
2 | tablespoons water |
1 | tablespoon vegetable oil |
¹⁄ | teaspoon red pepper flakes |
2 | teaspoons packed light brown sugar |
3 | tablespoons lime juice (2 limes) |
¹⁄ | cup chopped fresh cilantro |
1 | tablespoon chopped fresh chives |
4 | tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces |
Salt and pepper |
1.
Immediately after placing pork in oven, mix garlic paste with water in small bowl. Add oil to still-hot skillet and swirl to coat; add garlic paste and cook with skillet’s residual heat, scraping bottom of skillet with wooden spoon to loosen any browned bits, until sizzling subsides, about 2 minutes. Set skillet over low heat and continue cooking, stirring frequently, until garlic is sticky, 8 to 10 minutes; set skillet aside off heat.
2.
While pork is resting, set skillet over medium heat; add pepper flakes and sugar to skillet and cook until sticky and sugar is dissolved, about 1 minute. Add lime juice, cilantro, and chives; simmer to blend flavors, 1 to 2 minutes. Add any accumulated pork juices and simmer 1 minute longer. Off heat, whisk in butter, 1 piece at a time. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
MAKES
¹⁄
2
CUP, ENOUGH FOR 1 RECIPE
PAN-SEARED OVEN-ROASTED PORK TENDERLOINS
4 | tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces |
2 | shallots, sliced thin |
2 | tablespoons water
|
1 | teaspoon packed light brown sugar |
³⁄ | cup balsamic vinegar |
2 | teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary |
1 | tablespoon Dijon mustard |
Salt and pepper |
1.
Immediately after placing pork in oven, add 1 tablespoon butter to still-hot skillet; when melted, stir in shallots, water, and sugar. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring frequently, until shallots are browned and caramelized, 7 to 10 minutes; set skillet aside off heat.
2.
While pork is resting, set skillet over medium-low heat and add vinegar; simmer, scraping bottom of skillet with wooden spoon to loosen any browned bits, until mixture is slightly thickened, 5 to 7 minutes. Add rosemary and any accumulated pork juices; continue to simmer until syrupy and reduced to about ¹⁄
3
cup, about 2 minutes longer. Off heat, whisk in mustard and remaining 3 tablespoons butter, 1 piece at a time. Season with salt and pepper to taste.