The Naked Pint (4 page)

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Authors: Christina Perozzi

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Maybe the only ester you know is your Aunt Esther in Poughkeep sie, but we’re talking about the chemical compounds that yeast emits in beer. There are many different combinations of esters, but simply put, they are chemical compounds that our brains perceive as pleasant flavors and aromas. Brewers can choose these flavors and aromas based on the yeast strain they use. For instance, Hefeweizen yeast gives off banana and clove esters. Esters can be fruity like pears, strawberries, plums, and figs; they can be spicy like cloves, nutmeg, and pepper; they can be flowery like geranium and jasmine; and they can be herbaceous like sage and lavender. These are flavors you want hanging out in a wheat beer.
You Put Coriander Where? Adjuncts and Flavorings
Sometimes a brewer wants to get a little crazy and add something to the mix that is not a basic ingredient. These are called
adjuncts
and
flavorings
. This is a big trend in brewing in America today and makes beer one of the most diverse and interesting beverages on earth. Adjuncts are unmalted grains that are added as a supplement to malted barley. These may be used to provide more sugar or to add a specific mouthfeel or flavor. Flavorings are any herb, spice, flower, and so on that are added to lend a specific flavor to the brew. Here are some examples of ingredients that might be added by creative brewers:
ADJUNCTS:
Oats, rice, rye, corn, candi sugar (often used in Belgian beers), and wheat are all common adjuncts used to produce anything from a richer flavor to a specific mouthfeel or head retention.
 
FLAVORINGS:
Fruits (cherry, curacao orange peels, juniper berry, peach, apple, currant, raisin, strawberry) have been used to enhance beer, and herbs, spices, and other crazy stuff (sage, chamomile, coriander, cloves, nutmeg, rosemary, chilies, chocolate, coffee, honey, molasses, nut extracts, spruce tips) have been used as additional flavorings in beer.
The use of additional ingredients underlines our point that the homogenized, industrialized light beer we Americans have been drinking doesn’t even scratch the surface of what our beer drinking experience could and should be. If you feel like having a chocolate bar, an orange sherbet, or a licorice whip, you could find it in beer.
There are some purists, however, who don’t agree with this new fangled beer making. The Germans (big surprise) are among the brewers who pooh-pooh the addition of anything other than the original four ingredients—malt, hops, water, and yeast—to make their beer.
REINHEITSGE-WHAT? GERMAN BEER PURITY LAW
Almost every town and village in Germany has at least one brewery, and some have more than one. In fact, Germany has over 1,300 breweries, more than half of which are in Bavaria in southern Germany. This means that about a third of all the breweries in the world are in Germany.
The Germans don’t make and drink just any beer. Like old French wines with their distinct AOC rules and regulations, Germans have rigid and particular ideas about the ingredients, quality, and origin of their beer. For Germans, a beer must have been brewed according to the Reinheitsgebot.
REINHEITSGEBOT:
(n) Literally means “purity order.” In the 16th century the Bavarian court was concerned about the ingredients that were being used in beer. Brewers used to color their beers with soot or lime, and beans and peas were being used in addition to grains as malt. In 1516, Duke William IV passed a law that restricted the brewing of beer and stipulated that only barley (or wheat) hops and water were allowed to be used in beer (they didn’t know about the function of yeast in 1516).
The beer styles in Germany vary greatly, extending far beyond the lagers and light beers that we Americans associate with Germany. (Note: Many of us Americans associate this lightness with the beer Heineken, which is not German but Dutch, and is an industrialized beer.) Germans make ales and lagers that run the gamut in color, from the lightest of light Kristallklar to the darkest of dark Schwarzbier.
What’s Your Type? Beer Styles
M
ost every beer is given a name based on its general flavor profile, its origin and history, or both. This name is known as the beer’s style. The style is usually the first thing you know about a beer, as it’s often on the label, so it’s helpful to understand the attributes of the various beer styles.
We explained earlier that all beers are either ales or lagers. In addition, ales and lagers are broken down into styles. For instance, a Pilsner is a style of lager, a Dopplebock is a style of lager, a Porter is a style of ale, a Stout is a style of ale, an India Pale Ale is a style of ... got it?
Beers are categorized on the basis of historical tradition, ingredients, and sensory characteristics. According to the Beer Judge Certification Program, which is highly respected in the beer world and the go-to for beer style guidelines, flavors that are most important to a beer style are type and strength of malt, yeast strain, strength of bitterness, and type and strength of hops. Aromatics that are most important to a beer style include strength and type of malt aroma, strength and type of hop aroma, and yeast ester aroma. The feel of a beer in the mouth, from the thickness of the liquid to the amount of prickli ness from the carbonation, are also important factors in determining a beer style. The visual characteristics that are most important to a beer style are color, clarity, and the nature of the head (for example, the thickness).
Whether the beer is dubbed Bavarian Hefeweizen or Russian Imperial Stout, the name hints at what the aromatics are like, how strong it is, what sort of body it has, how it was brewed, and even what its history is. There are many, many variations of each particular style, and each brewer makes his or her own version of specific styles, but knowing a beer’s style gives you a general idea of what to expect.
Here are some examples of common beer styles:
AMERICAN ALL -MAL T LAGER:
The designation “all-malt lager” means that no adjuncts were used. Though pale in color, these beers will display a broader depth of flavor and a more complex bitterness than the industrialized mass-produced lagers promoted during football games.
 
PILSNER:
A type of lager named after the city in which it was created, Plzen, Bohemia (in what is now the Czech Republic). The beer is crisp, clear, and light straw to golden in color, finishing clean and dry.
 
PALE ALE:
A type of English ale that is usually bitter (hoppy) and higher in alcohol content than your average Pilsner.
 
INDIA PALE ALE (IPA):
A beer created by British brewers who were sending their Pale Ales to India. They found that the ales were going bad on the long journey, so they added more alcohol and hops to help preserve them, creating a bigger brew. IPAs today are generally bitter and higher in alcohol than a Pale Ale.
 
WHEAT BEER:
Simply put, an ale or lager brewed with a portion of malted wheat in the mash. There are two common types of wheat beers: Hefeweizen (light, fruity, unfiltered wheat beer) and Dunkelweizen (darker unfiltered wheat beer).
 
WITBIER:
A Belgian-style ale that’s very pale in color but cloudy in appearance both because it is unfiltered (meaning the yeast has been kept in) and because a high level of wheat and sometimes oats are used in the brewing process. These beers are spiced, often with coriander, orange peel, or herbs. The crispness and slight twang come from the wheat and the high level of carbonation. A popular style often replicated well in the United States.
 
BROWN ALE:
Brown Ales are typically rather malty and often full in body. They tend to have a nutty, toasty character, some with lighter notes and others with a heavy malt quality.
 
PORTER:
This is a dark ale and is generally not too high in alcohol content. The name of the style comes from its popularity with the street and river porters of London in the 18th century.
 
STOUT:
Porters were so popular that the English started making Double Porters and Extra Stout Porters, which eventually became known simply as Stouts. These ales are black ales that use deeply roasted barley for their toasty character and dark color. Stouts vary greatly in alcohol content, sweetness, and bitterness. Though these attributes change from stout to stout, the richness of the roasted barley is the common thread.
 
DUBBEL:
A Belgian-style ale that is usually dark in color, with a dark fruit profile of figs and plumbs, and a spice profile of clove, nutmeg, and similar spices. Dubbels have a mild hop bitterness and are effervescent and medium to full-bodied. Dubbel refers to the use of up to twice the amount of malt used in a standard Belgian Ale.
 
TRIPEL:
Tripel
refers to part of the brewing process in which brewers use up to three times the amount of malt used in a standard Belgian Ale. Traditionally, Tripels are yellow to gold in color with a dense, creamy head. The aroma and flavors are complex, often spicy, yeasty, and fruity, with a semisweet finish. Small amounts of spices and herbs are sometimes added as well. Tripels are notoriously alcoholic, and the best crafted ones hide this character, so proceed with caution: sip slowly.

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