The Second Avenue Deli Cookbook (14 page)

BOOK: The Second Avenue Deli Cookbook
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1. Soak beans overnight in cold water that covers them by a few inches.
2. Pour the chicken soup into a large stockpot, and bring to a boil. Add drained beans, reduce heat, and simmer for 1 hour.
3. Add 2 cups water, celery, carrots, parsnips, onions, garlic, salt, and pepper to the pot. Simmer for 30 minutes.
4. Keeping your soup at a low simmer, spoon off 2 or 3 cups of clear soup as best you can (don't worry if there's a bean or a piece of onion in it). Pour oil into a medium saucepan and add flour, stirring well until it is completely dissolved and smooth. Put the roux pot on medium to high heat, and add the soup, a little at a time, stirring constantly to create a thick, totally smooth, pastelike roux. It will get a little less pastelike as you add more soup. Transfer the roux to the soup pot, and stir in well. This is a fairly thick soup.
Note:
Since you have to soak your beans overnight, plan advance preparation.

Cabbage Soup
SERVES
8
4 to 5 soup bones (get them from your butcher)
2 cups canned tomatoes, drained and chopped into ¾-inch pieces
2 cups chopped onion
1 tablespoon chopped or crushed fresh garlic
2 teaspoons salt
¼ teaspoon pepper
1 small to medium cabbage, coarsely chopped (about 2 pounds when chopped)
3 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons fresh-squeezed lemon juice
FOR THE ROUX
3 tablespoons corn oil
¼ cup flour
1. Bring 10 cups of water to a boil in a large stockpot. Add soup bones, tomatoes, onions, garlic, salt, and pepper; reduce heat, and simmer 1½ hours.
2. Remove and discard soup bones. Add cabbage, sugar, and lemon juice. Simmer for another 40 minutes. Skim off fat with a slotted spoon. If you prefer a brothlike cabbage soup, skip the next step; the roux is optional.
3. Keeping your soup at a low simmer, spoon off 3 cups clear broth. Pour corn oil into a medium saucepan, and add flour, stirring well until it is completely dissolved. Put the roux pot on medium to high heat, and add the soup, a little at a time, stirring constantly to create a thick, totally smooth, pastelike roux. It will get a little less pastelike as you add more soup. Transfer the roux to the soup pot, and stir in well.
Note:
If your soup bones had fat attached to them, check each bowl of soup before serving to make sure no pieces fell off.

Goulash Soup
SERVES
8
Hungarian soups are like stews, with large quantities of meat and vegetables in minimal broth. This goulash soup is best prepared a day in advance; it tastes much better on the second day.
1 tablespoon onion powder
1 tablespoon garlic powder
4 teaspoons salt
¼ teaspoon pepper
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 pounds stew beef, trimmed of fat and cut into 1-inch cubes
2 tablespoons schmaltz (substitute olive oil if you don't have schmaltz)
3 cups chopped onions
2 tablespoons finely chopped or crushed fresh garlic
1 tablespoon schmaltz or olive oil
2 cups green pepper, chopped into ¾-inch pieces
2 tablespoons paprika
2 tablespoons tomato paste
2 bay leaves
½ cup water
2 pounds Idaho potatoes (about 4½ cups), peeled and chopped into ¾-inch chunks
3 cups drained and coarsely chopped canned tomatoes
FOR THE ROUX
3 tablespoons corn oil
¼ cup flour
1. Mix onion powder, garlic powder, 2 teaspoons salt, pepper, and cayenne thoroughly in a large bowl. Add the beef cubes, and toss to coat evenly. Marinate in refrigerator for at least 6 hours.
2. Heat 2 tablespoons schmaltz in a large skillet, and sauté onions until browned. Add garlic at the last minute, and brown quickly. Remove onions and garlic with a slotted spoon to a large bowl. Add 1 tablespoon schmaltz to skillet, sauté green peppers, and set them aside in a different bowl.
3. In remaining schmaltz (add a small amount if needed), brown the meat on all sides. Add to bowl with onions and garlic; add paprika, tomato paste, and 2 teaspoons salt. Mix everything together thoroughly.
4. Transfer contents of bowl with meat into a large stockpot or Dutch oven; add bay leaves and ½ cup water. Cover, and simmer 1 hour and 20 minutes.
5. Uncover pot, and add potatoes, tomatoes, and 6 cups of water. Bring to a boil, lower heat, and simmer for 45 minutes. Add green peppers, and simmer for 15 minutes longer.
6. Keeping your soup at a low simmer, spoon off 4 cups clear soup as best you can (don't worry if there's a piece of onion in it). Pour corn oil into a medium saucepan, and add flour, stirring well until it is completely dissolved. Put the roux pot on medium to high heat, and add the soup, a little at a time, stirring constantly to create a thick, totally smooth, pastelike roux. It will get a little less pastelike as you add more soup. Transfer the roux to the soup pot, and stir in well.

Potato Soup
SERVES
10
Someone once said, “Rich men eat vichyssoise, poor men eat potato soup.” But money couldn't buy a better soup than this Russian peasant recipe.
10 cups clear chicken soup or stock
¾ cup celery, chopped into ¼-inch pieces
1 cup carrot, chopped into ½-inch pieces
1 cup parsnip, chopped into ¼-inch pieces
2 cups onion, chopped into ½-inch pieces
1½ pounds Idaho potatoes, peeled and chopped into ¾-inch pieces
1 pound round red potatoes, peeled and chopped into ¾-inch pieces
2 tablespoons finely chopped or crushed fresh garlic
Salt (the amount will depend on how much salt is in the chicken stock you use; if it's salty, you may not need any)
¼ teaspoon pepper
2 cups cooked spinach (optional)
2 tablespoons finely chopped dill (or a bit more to taste)
FOR THE ROUX
⅜ cup corn oil
6 tablespoons flour
1. Pour chicken soup into a large stockpot, and add celery, carrots, parsnips, and onions. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer for 20 minutes.
2. Add potatoes, garlic, salt (if needed), and pepper to pot. Cover, and simmer 30 minutes (or until potatoes are well cooked).
3. Keeping your soup at a low simmer, spoon off 3 cups clear soup as best you can. Pour corn oil into a medium saucepan, and add flour, stirring well until it is completely dissolved. Put the roux pot on medium to high heat, and add the soup, a little at a time, stirring constantly to create a thick, totally smooth, pastelike roux. It will get a little less pastelike as you add more soup. Transfer the roux to the soup pot, and stir in well. This is a fairly thick soup.
4. Stir in spinach and dill just prior to serving, and add salt to taste.
Note:
Spinach is not actually part of this recipe as served in the Deli. However, we were once having lunch on a day that spinach was the vegetable du jour, and we threw some into our potato soup and liked it. If you'd like to add spinach, add it only to the amount you're serving. It will get limp if refrigerated in the soup.

Turkey Gumbo
SERVES
8
10 cups plain chicken soup or stock
1 stalk celery, cut into sticks (approximately ¼ inch by 1 inch)
5-inch carrot, cut into sticks (approximately ¼ inch by 1 inch)
3 cups chopped onion
5-inch parsnip, cut into sticks (approximately ¼ inch by 1 inch)
¾ cup uncooked bow tie noodles
1 cup cooked white-meat turkey, chopped into ¾-inch pieces
½ cup fresh okra, cut into ¼-inch slices
½ cup frozen peas
1 tablespoon finely chopped or crushed fresh garlic
Salt (the amount will depend on how much salt is in the chicken stock you use; if it's salty, you may not need any)
¼ teaspoon pepper
1 cup cooked rice
FOR THE ROUX
3 tablespoons corn oil
¼ cup flour
1. In a large stockpot, place chicken soup, celery, carrots, onions, and parsnips. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat, and simmer for 20 minutes.
2. Add bow tie noodles and turkey, and simmer for 15 minutes.
3. Add okra, peas, garlic, salt (if needed), and pepper, and simmer for 5 minutes.
4. Add rice, and simmer for 3 minutes.
5. Keeping your soup at a low simmer, spoon off 3 cups clear soup as best you can. Pour corn oil into a medium saucepan, and add flour, stirring well until it is completely dissolved. Put the roux pot on medium to high heat, and add the soup, a little bit at a time, stirring constantly to create a thick, totally smooth, pastelike roux. It will get a little less pastelike as you add more soup. Transfer the roux to the soup pot, and stir in well.

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