The Second Avenue Deli Cookbook (17 page)

MAKES ABOUT
30

Called Jewish wontons or raviolis, kreplach are pasta dumplings, usually triangular in shape, filled with minced meat, onion-spiced potatoes, or cheese. Kreplach carries a lot of lofty symbolism; its triangular shape represents Judaism's three patriarchs: Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob. Equally lofty: the Jewish momma who can roll her kreplach dough to optimum thinness (so that, according to Sam Levenson, “a tempting bit of their buried treasure should show through”). If the wrappers are not paper-thin, your kreplach will taste like “craplach.” However, though we've included wrappers in this recipe, there's really no reason to knock yourself out making them. Just purchase wonton wrappers in a Chinese food store or supermarket, and making kreplach becomes a cinch. There's even a kosher brand called Nasoya, available in many supermarkets; look for it near the tofu.

1. Prepare a filling (see
options
) and refrigerate before you begin preparing dough. Sift flour and 1 teaspoon salt into a large bowl, and create a well in the center.

2. Pour eggs into the well, and, wetting your hands, knead into a dough. Add water, and continue kneading until dough is smooth. Roll dough into a ball, place it in a bowl, cover the bowl with a damp cloth, and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

3. On a well-floured board, roll dough as close as possible to paper-thinness with a floured rolling pin. Cut into 2-inch squares. You can roll each individual square a bit thinner before you fill it. Have bowl with beaten egg, a teaspoon, and filling at hand.

4. Place a flatware teaspoon of filling in the center of the square and fold diagonally to create a triangle. Seal sides with egg mixture.

5. Bring a pot of water to a vigorous boil, add 1 tablespoon salt, drop in the kreplach, and cook for 20 minutes. Serve in chicken soup or, for dairy fillings, with sour cream and fried onions.

1. Heat corn oil in a skillet, sauté onions until nicely browned, remove with a slotted spoon, and set aside. Add meat to the pan and sauté on high heat, stirring frequently until all meat is browned. Put the onions back in, and sauté with meat, stirring constantly for 1 minute. Let cool.

2. In a bowl, thoroughly mix meat-onion mixture with all remaining ingredients.

1. Heat corn oil in a skillet, and sauté onions until nicely browned. At the last minute, add garlic, which browns quickly.

2. In a large bowl, combine onion-garlic mixture with all other ingredients, and blend thoroughly.

1. Combine all ingredients in a bowl, and blend thoroughly.

MAKES
12
TO
14

Abe experimented until he came up with the lightest, fluffiest, most Jewish-motherly matzo balls imaginable.

1. Fill a large, wide stockpot three-quarters full of water, add 1 tablespoon of the salt, and bring to a rapid boil.

2. While water is boiling, crack eggs into a large bowl and beat thoroughly. Beat in schmaltz, ¼ teaspoon salt, pepper, and baking powder. Slowly fold in matzo meal, mixing vigorously until completely blended.

3. Wet hands and, folding the mixture in your palms, shape perfect balls about 1¼ inches in diameter (they will double in size when cooked). Gently place the matzo balls in the boiling water, and reduce heat to a simmer. Cook for 25 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and place 1 or 2 in each bowl of soup. Serve immediately.