Near a Thousand Tables (51 page)

219
reheated before serving:
Gaman and Sherrington,
The Science of Food,
pp. 242, 244-46.

219
infected other meat:
Postgate,
Microbes and Man,
p. 68.

220
modern France:
J. Claudian and Y. Serville, “Aspects de l'evolution recente de comportement alimentaire en France: composition des repas et urbanisation,” in Hemardinquer,
Pour une histoire de l'alimentation,
pp. 174-87.

220
culture in history:
M. Carlin, “Fast Food and Urban Living Standards in Medieval England,” in M. Carlin and J. T. Rosenthal, eds.,
Food and Eating in Medieval Europe
(London, 1998), pp. 27-51, at p. 27.

220
“Go dine, go”:
Ibid., pp. 29, 31.

220
“eat today”:
Levenstein,
Revolution at the Table,
p. 163.

221
“for dessert”:
Ibid., p. 106.

221
lowfat milk:
Ibid., p. 113.

221
cream of mushroom soup:
Ibid., pp. 122-23.

221
“cloves or cinnamon”: Fast Service
magazine, 1978, quoted in Levenstein,
Paradox of Plenty,
p. 233.

222
to test:
Levenstein,
Revolution at the Table,
p. 227.

222
tableside microwaves:
Ibid., p. 128.

224
“Arcadian past”:
Highgrove,
pp. 30, 276.

Abd al-Latif al-Baghdadi, 120-21

Afghanistan, 83, 137

agriculture, 58, 72, 76-100, 119, 165, 176, 190, 194

benefits of, 83

chemicals in, 192-93, 206, 208-9, 224

disadvantages of, 81-83

as divine gift, 86

draft animals and, 83

ecological damage caused by, 208-9, 223-24

genetic modification in, 79, 209-10

hunter-gatherers avoidance of, 79, 82-83

impact of, 87

industrialization of, 191-93, 206-10

“miracle” crops in, 206-8

selective breeding in, 79, 87, 93, 97, 191-92, 206-7
see also
grasses; roots and tubers

agriculture, origins of, 76-87

beer in, 96

competitive feasting in, 86, 96

gathering and, 78-79, 81, 86-87

independent occurrences of, 85, 86-87

oasis hypothesis of, 84-85

plant domestication in, 80-81

population pressures in, 85-86

postglacial context of, 84, 88-89, 96

as religious response, 86, 96

Airport Diner, menu of, 107

Alcock, Sir Rutherford, 110

Alexis, 116

Algeria, 173-74

Andean peoples, 30, 86, 99, 129, 136, 149, 155, 176, 211

Anson, George, 38, 39

Antiphanes, 116-17

aphrodisiacs, 32-33, 52

Apicius, 117, 155

Appert, Nicolas, 212-13

Arabs, 112, 118, 146-47, 173

cuisine of, 117, 119-21, 139, 155

spice trade of, 153, 154-55, 156

Arawaks, 21-22, 24

Archestratus of Gela, 12, 136

Assyria, royal banquets of, 104

Athenaeus of Naucratis, 111-12

Augustus Caesar, 113

Ausonius, 2

Australia, 168, 184, 185-86, 215

Australian aboriginals, 2, 62

agriculture avoided by, 79

fire in game management of, 59, 70

fire mythology of, 8

kava's effect on, 53

megafauna extinctions and, 64

nardoo plant detoxified by, 10, 82

avocados, 167

Aztecs, 8, 168

banquets of, 127-29

cannibalism of, 22, 28

dietary restrictions of, 32

maize and, 30

tribute paid to, 128, 149-50

Bachelard, Gaston, 11-12

Bacon, Francis, 211

bacteria, 11, 68, 71-72, 76, 166, 210, 211-13, 214, 215, 217, 218-19

Baghdad Cook, The,
120

bananas, 168, 169, 174-76

Banks, Sir Joseph, 185-86

Banyankole, 104

barley, 81, 88, 89-90, 93, 95, 96, 185

Barrie, J. M., 61, 64

Barthélémy, Abbé, 122

Barthes, Roland, 135

Bartram, William, 129

Bechuanas, 145

beer, 96, 103

Bellamy, Edward, 220

Bellon, Pierre, 127

Bemba, 32

berebere sauce, 7

beriberi, 35, 38, 136

Bernáldez, Andrés, 139

bighorn sheep, 70

Binford, Lewis, 82

Birdseye, Clarence, 215

biscuits, mass-produced, 196-97

bison, American, 63, 66, 168, 170, 171, 172, 173

black-eyed peas, 19, 144

Blane, Gilbert, 39

blood, 51, 78

blood puddings, 16

Borden, Gail, 213

Borlang, Norman E., 209

Berwick's Baking Powder, 189

bottle gourd, 94

botulism, 11, 213

Bowyer, Thomas, 146

brain food, 52

Braudel, Fernand, 206

Brazil, 26, 71, 165, 180, 181, 182

bread, 51-52, 96, 97, 103, 126, 127, 138, 143, 171

breadfruit, 163, 164

breakfast cereals, 44, 45, 97, 132

Breuil, Henri, 8

Brillat-Savarin, Jean-Anthelme, 7, 20, 33, 46-47, 77, 105, 117, 149

brochettes, 16

Brown and Polson, 189 Burbank, Luther, 191-92

Burger King, 222

Bushmen, 54, 64-65

butter, 51, 71, 151, 201, 204, 211, 218

Cajun cuisine, 143

Campbell's soup, 223

Cangapol “el Bravo,” 172

cannibalism, 20, 21-29

criminal, 24-25

cultural relativism and, 26-27

as “custom of the sea,” 25, 26

defenders of, 26

derivation of term, 22

as excuse for exploitation, 23

famine, 27

as food magic, 27-29, 35, 52

historical reports of, 21-23

opportunistic, 25

purpose of, 27-29

reality of, 24

survival, 25-26

vegetarianism as prevention of, 42

war as context of, 28

of white men, natives' belief in, 23-24

canning, 190, 212-14, 217, 219, 223

Caréme, Antoine, 117, 122

Caribs, 21-22

Carleton, Mark, 207

Carlyle, Thomas, 19

Carr, Jonathan Dickson, 197

Carroll, Lewis, 1, 119

Carson, Rachel, 209

cassava, 98, 99, 100, 107, 169, 175, 178

caviar, 127

Celsus, 56

chain stores, 195-96

Champlain, Samuel de, 36, 167

Chang, Jolan, 52

Charlemagne, 102

Charles, Prince of Wales, 224

cheeses, 4, 71-72, 151, 167, 215, 217

chicken, 120, 125, 126, 164, 168

processing of, 193, 219, 224

chickpeas, 137, 139

chilies, 142, 145, 146, 162, 167, 168, 180, 182-83

China, 6, 9, 60, 68, 81, 90-93, 98, 137, 138, 143, 147, 174, 175, 221

courtly cuisines of, 111

dairy products rejected in, 71

dietetics of, 34, 53

etiquette of, 118

famines in, 205

fish farming in, 74

millet in, 90-92

New World crops in, 167, 177, 178-79, 180

oysters in, 3

Peking Man in, 8

rice in, 90, 91, 92-93, 149, 179

Shang dynasty of, 90-91, 92

spice trade of, 155, 160

turtle shell divination in, 90-91

Chittenden, Russel H., 46

chocolate, 128, 150

ecological exchange of, 157, 165, 169, 181, 182-83

as processed food, 183, 196, 197-99

Cicero, 31

cinnamon, 153, 154-55, 159, 161-62, 181, 182

clambakes, 14

Clodius Albinus, 102

Coen, Jan Pieterszoon, 160

coffee, 157, 165, 181-82, 183

Colin, Joseph, 213

collard greens, 19, 144, 168, 204

Colman's mustard, 189

Coltelli, Francesco Procopio dei, 181

Columbus, Christopher, 21-22, 68, 154, 158, 161, 165, 167, 169

Confucius, 112

Constable, John, 47

Cook, Captain James, 23, 39, 40, 183-85

Cook, James H., 15, 68

cookery, 12-18, 97

boiling, 14, 16, 17, 214

ember, 12, 13

firepot, 76

frying, 17-18

hot-stone, 13-15, 17

microwave, 18, 19-20, 222

pressure cooker, 213, 214

reheating, 20

roasting, 12-13, 16, 17

cooking, 1-20, 94

as accidental discovery, 8-9

alternative forms of, 3-4, 164, 211, 215

benefits of, 10-11

biochemical changes in, 10, 69, 119

communal eating engendered by, 4, 11-12, 19

decline of, 18-20

as defining human characteristic, 3

disease prevented by, 11

fast food vs., 19

first evidence of, 3

pleasurable eating produced by, 102

of poisonous foods, 10-11, 82, 100

social effects of, 4-6, 10, 11, 18, 20

wild animals and, 9-10

cooking pits, 14-15, 17

Cook Islands, 8, 14

cookware, 14, 15-18

animal parts as, 14, 15-17

basketware, 15

earthenware, 15, 17-18

metal, 16

shells as, 15

weapons as, 16, 17

corn, hi-lysine, 218

corn bread, 144

couscous, 146

Crosby, Al, 165, 171, 185

cross-cultural eating, 131-32, 221-23

in antiquity, 135-36

cultural barriers to, 131-38, 148

cultural magnetism in, 138-40

famine and, 138

“international” cuisine in, 137-38, 149

in Middle Ages, 139-40

migrants and, 133-34, 136, 144-45, 147-48, 174

“national” cuisines and, 137, 167

tourism and, 138

traditional cuisines and, 137, 216, 222-23

war and, 138
see also
imperialism; trade

Cruise, Richard, 185

Cry of Nature, The
(Oswald), 42

Curiel, David, 152

Dahl, Roald, 198

Dahmer, Jeffrey, 24-25

dairy products, 70-72, 77-78, 122, 193, 214

cheeses, 4, 71-72, 151, 167, 215, 217

Dakota, 7-8

Darwin, Charles, 47, 60, 80, 94, 145, 192

De Bry, Theodore, 23

deficiency diseases, 35-40, 48, 50, 53, 94, 136 Dekker, Eduard Douwes, 145, 182

Denmark, 7, 57

Dias, Bartolomeu, 157-58

Díaz, Bernai, 127-28

dietetics, 33, 34-54

of abundance, 52-54

arbitrary categories in, 34-35

brain food in, 52

curative, 34-40, 53, 119-20

deficiency diseases in, 35-40, 48, 50

fat consumption and, 53-54, 218

humoral dietary theory in, 34, 37, 39, 53

proscribed foods in, 34, 35

vitamins and, 35-40
see also
“health” diets

difrusionism, 58-59

Dissertation upon Roast Pig, A
(Lamb), 8-9 divination, 30, 86, 90-91

dogs, 60, 62-63, 66, 67, 68, 91, 135, 164

Douglas, Mary, 32, 132

Dumontelli, Fulbert, 124

Dunn-Meynell, Hugo, 14

Early, Eleanor, 221

ecological exchanges, 79, 162, 163-86

in antiquity, 165

avocados in, 167

balance of power shifted by, 167

bananas in, 168, 169, 174-76

cassava in, 99, 167, 169, 178

chocolate in, 157, 165, 169, 181, 182-83

coffee in, 157, 165, 181-82, 183

diseases in, 68, 166

livestock in, 68, 165, 166, 168, 169, 171, 172, 183-86

maize in, 167, 169, 176-79, 185

“New Europes” in, 185-86, 191

nutritional benefits of, 166, 168, 169

peanuts in, 165, 167, 180

political consequences of, 166-67, 177-78

population growth and, 166, 179-80

potatoes in, 100, 165, 167, 168, 169, 176, 178-80, 184, 185

rice in, 165, 168, 169, 174

in scientific revolution, 167

sugar in, 166-67, 169, 180-81, 182, 183

sweet potatoes in, 166, 169, 178-79, 184

wheat in, 95, 165, 168, 169-74, 177

Edda,
104

Edwards, Bryan, 164

Egypt, ancient, 34, 84, 89, 103-4, 111, 135, 149, 153-54

elite food styles, 10, 55, 66, 81, 86, 89, 96, 98, 101-30, 132-33, 139, 183

in Africa, 129-30

Arabian, 117, 119-21, 139, 155

austerity in, 110, 112-13, 115

banquets in, 104, 109, 111-12, 113-15, 116-17, 120, 122, 127-29, 130

chocolate in, 183

conspicuous consumption in, 66, 103, 109, 113-14, 128

cooks and, 109, 116-17

courtly cuisines in, 98, 109-23, 124, 127-30

cross-class transfers of, 123-27

diverse provenance of ingredients in, 148-49

diversity in, 109

embourgeoisement of, 119-23

etiquette in, 105, 113, 117-19

excessive quantities in, 101-8, 109, 111-12, 113

food aesthetics in, 120

food distribution and, 103-4, 188

heroic eating in, 102, 104-8, 109, 112, 114, 122-23

intellectual games in, 115

menus for, 105, 106, 107, 111-12, 121, 123, 128-29

of Native Americans, 127-29

novelty in, 113-15

obesity aesthetics in, 102, 104

painstaking preparation in, 111-12, 113, 115-17, 124

in paradise, 102-3

privileged foodstuffs in, 124, 129, 130

recipes for, 111, 116-17, 119, 120-21, 122, 123, 124, 125, 140, 155, 156

refinement in, 109-11, 126

Renaissance, 109, 121-23, 125

sauces in, 115-17, 119, 125

seasoning in, 115, 120-22, 124, 130, 153;
see also
spice trade

service in, 147-48

social benefits of, 102, 103-4

tableware for, 106, 109, 112, 120, 148

unseasonal dishes in, 114

in U.S., 107-8

wild foods in, 69-70, 72

Ellington, Duke, 107-8

El Niño events, 205, 206

England, 26, 51, 151, 165, 166-68, 171-72, 174-75, 191, 194-97, 205

canning in, 213-14

chocolate in, 182, 198, 199

cuisine of, 2-3, 69-70, 121, 124, 126, 127, 133, 144, 167-68, 169

fast food in, 220

French cuisine rejected by, 132-35