Near a Thousand Tables (48 page)

85
experimentation with plants:
C. O. Sauer,
Agricultural Origin and Dispersals
(New York, 1952).

85
and grazing herds:
R. J. Braidwood and B. Howe, eds.,
Prehistoric Investigations in Iraqi Kurdistan
(Chicago, 1960).

85
food sources were few:
K. Flannery, “The Origins of Agriculture,”
Annual Reviews in Anthropology,
ii (1973), 271-310.

85
“human communities”:
E. S. Anderson,
Plants, Man and Life
(London, 1954), pp. 142-50.

85
where people lived:
C. B. Heiser,
Seed to Civilization: The Story of Food
(Cambridge, Massachusetts, 1990), pp. 14-26.

85
existing foodstuffs:
Binford and Binford, eds.,
New Perspectives in Archaeology; M. Cohen, The Food Crisis in Prehistory
(New Haven, 1977).

85
as a cause:
B. Bronson, “The Earliest Farming: Demography As Cause and Consequence,” in S. Polgar, ed.,
Population, Ecology and Social Evolution
(The Hague, 1975).

86
supplies are secure:
B. Hayden, “Nimrods, Piscators, Pluckers and Planters: The Emergence of Food Production,”
Journal of Anthropological Research,
ix (1953), 31-69.

86
kind of conviviality:
B. Hayden, “Pathways to Power: Principles for Creating Socioeconomic Inequalities,” in T. D. Price and G. M. Feinman, eds.,
Foundations of Social Inequality
(New York, 1995), pp. 15-86.

86
religious response:
Harlan,
Crops and Man,
pp. 35-36.

87
to tell apart:
S. J. Fiedel,
Prehistory of the Americas
(New York, 1987), p. 162.

87
varieties of beans:
G. P. Nabhan,
The Desert Smells Like Rain: A Naturalist in Papago Indian Country
(San Francisco, 1982);
Enduring Seeds: Native American Agriculture and Wild Plant Conservation
(San Francisco, 1989).

87
“when planted”:
B. Fagan,
The Journey from Eden: The Peopling of Our World
(London, 1990), p. 225.

87
without husking:
D. Rindos,
The Origins of Agriculture: An Evolutionary Perspective
(New York, 1984).

88
loss of the main crop:
K. F. Kiple and K. C. Ornelas, eds.,
The Cambridge World History of Food,
2 vols. (Cambridge, 2000), i, 149.

89
“supply trains”:
C. I. Beckwith,
The Tibetan Empire in Central Asia: A History of the Struggle for Great Power Among Tibetans, Turks, Arabs and Chinese During the Early Middle Ages
(Princeton, 1987), p. 100.

90
“be abundant”:
A. Waley,
The Book of Songs Translated from the Chinese
(London, 1937), p. 17.

90
trees and scrub:
D. N. Keightley, ed.,
The Origins of Chinese Civilization
(Berkeley, 1983), p. 27.

90
occasional rhinoceros:
K. C. Chang,
Shang Civilization
(New Haven, 1980), pp. 138-41.

91
ground in Shansi:
Waley,
Book of Songs,
p. 24.

91
“pink-sprouted and white”:
Ibid., p. 242.

91
over the ruins:
K. C. Chang,
Shang Civilization
(New Haven, 1980).

91
indigenous to China:
Te-Tzu Chang: “The Origins and Early Culture of the Cereal Grains and Food Legumes,” in Keightley, ed.,
Origins of Chinese Civilization,
pp. 66-68.

92
carried home:
W. Fogg, “Swidden Cultivation of Foxtail Millet by Taiwan Aborigines: A Cultural Analogue of the Domestica of Serica Italica in China,” in Keightley,
Origins of Chinese Civilization,
pp. 95-115.

92
the millet stocks:
Waley,
Book of Songs,
pp. 164-67.

92
the mountains in 664:
K. C. Chang, “Origins and Early Culture,” p. 81.

92
monitored and destroyed:
K. C. Chang,
Shang Civilization,
pp. 148-49. The paragraphs on millet in China are derived from F. Fernández-Armesto,
Civilizations
(London, 2000), pp. 251-53.

92
until the nineteenth:
A. G. Frank,
ReOrient: Global Economy in the Asian Age
(Berkeley, 1998); J. Goody,
The East in the West
(London, 1996); F. Fernández-Armesto,
Millennium
(London, 1995; rev. ed., 1999).

93
third millennium
B.C.:
I. C. Glover and C. F. W. Higham, “Early Rice Cultivation in South, Southeast and East Asia,” in Harris,
Origins,
pp. 413-41.

93
wore skins:
H. Maspero,
China in Antiquity
(n.p., 1978), p. 382.

94
maize cultivation:
D. W. Lathrap, “Our Father the Cayman, Our Mother the Gourd,” in C. A. Reed, ed.,
Origins of Agriculture
(The Hague, 1977), pp. 713-51, at 721-22.

94
second millennium
B.C.:
Coe,
America's First Cuisines,
p. 14.

94
“habits of life”:
Darwin,
Variation of Animals and Plants,
i, 315.

95
tempted to conquest:
Fernández-Armesto,
Civilizations,
p. 210.

96
“in companionable villages”:
P. Pray Bober,
Art, Culture and Cuisine: Ancient and Medieval Gastronomy
(Chicago, 1999), p. 62.

96
surrounding bracts:
Heiser,
Seed to Civilization,
p. 70.

97
farmed plant:
M. Spriggs, “Taro-Cropping Systems in the South-east Asian Pacific Region,”
Archaeology in Oceania,
xvii (1982), 7-15.

98
nine thousand years ago:
J. Golson, “Kuku and the Development of Agriculture in New Guinea: Retrospection and Introspection,” in D. E. Yen and J. M. J. Mummery, eds.,
Pacific Production Systems: Approaches to Economic History
(Canberra, 1983), pp. 139-47.

98
a few days:
Heiser,
Seed to Civilization,
p. 149.

99
shrines and nurseries:
D. G. Coursey, “The Origins and Domestication of Yams in Africa,” in B. K. Schwartz and R. E. Dummett,
West African Culture Dynamics
(The Hague, 1980), pp. 67-90.

99
New Guinea:
J. Golson, “No Room at the Top: Agricultural Intensification in the New Guinea Highlands,” in J. Allen et al., eds.,
Sunda and Sabul
(London, 1977), pp. 601-38.

99
earliest anywhere:
J. G. Hawkes, “The Domestication of Roots and Tubers in the American Tropics,” in D. R. Harris and G. C. Hillman, eds.,
Foraging and Farming
(London, 1989), pp. 292-304.

100
“else to eat”:
J. V. Murra,
Formaciones económicas y políticas del mundo andino
(Lima, 1975), | pp. 45-57.

100
“good to drink”:
J. Lafitau,
Moeurs des sauvages amériquains, comparés aux moeurs des premiers temps,
2 vols. (Paris,
N. D.),
i, 100-101.

102
four hundred oysters at a sitting:
M. Montanari,
The Culture of Food
(Oxford, 1994), pp. 10-11.

102
hallowed by risk:
Ibid., pp. 23, 26.

103
“scorpion-fish”:
Quoted in Dalby,
Siren Feasts,
pp. 70-71, translation modified.

103
and so on:
M. Girouard,
Life in the English Country House
(New Haven, 1978), p. 12.

103
above subsistence level:
B. J. Kemp,
Ancient Egypt: Anatomy of a Civilization
(London, 1989), pp. 120-28.

104
“will have departed”:
Fernández-Armesto,
Civilizations,
pp. 226-27.

104
were served:
Flandrin and Montanari,
Histoire de l'alimentation,
p. 55.

104
“the platter itself”:
Montanari,
Culture of Food,
p. 22.

104
the broken bits:
O. Prakash,
Food and Drinks in Ancient India from Earliest Times to c.
1200 A.D.
(Delhi, 1961), p. 100.

104
wafers and cakes:
T. Wright,
The Homes of Other Days: A History of Domestic Manners and Sentiments in England
(London, 1871), p. 368. See also J. Lawrence, “Royal Feasts,”
Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery, 1990: Feasting and Fasting: Proceedings
(London, 1990).

104
walk to a waddle:
H. Powdermaker, “An Anthropological Approach to the Problems of Obesity,”
Bulletin of the New York Academy of Medicine,
xxxvi (1960), in C. Counihan and P. van Esterik, eds.,
Food and Culture: A Reader
(New York, 1997), pp. 203-10.

105
out in sweat:
S. Mennell,
All Manners of Food
(Oxford, 1985), p. 33. On Louis XIV's eating habits, see B. K. Wheaton,
Savouring the Past: The French Kitchen and Table from 1300 to 1789
(London, 1983), p. 135.

105
jug of water:
Brillat-Savarin,
Philosopher in the Kitchen,
pp. 60-61.

105
“reward of pleasure”:
Ibid., p. 133.

106
“‘baked in the ashes'”:
A. J. Liebling,
Between Meals: An Appetite for Paris
(New York, 1995), p. 6.

106
“somewhat forgotten”:
The Warden
(London, 1907), pp. 114-15.

107
“having too much”:
Levenstein,
Revolution at the Table,
pp. 7-14.

108
“when I go there”: New Yorker,
1944, quoted in J. Smith,
Hungry for You
(London, 1996).

109
unit of weight:
W. R. Leonard and M. L. Robertson, “Evolutionary Perspectives on Human Nutrition: The Influence of Brain and Body Size on Diet and Metabolism,”
American Journal of Human Biology,
vi (1994), 77-88.

109
“but not us”:
J. Steingarten,
The Man Who Ate Everything
(London, 1997), p. 5.

109
few leaves at one side:
M. F. K. Fisher and S. Tsuji in S. Tsuji,
Japanese Cooking: A Simple Art
(Tokyo, 1980), pp. 8-24.

110
“on a silver bowl”:
I. Morris, ed.,
The Pillow-Book of Sei Shonagon
(Harmondsworth, 1967), pp. 69, 169.

110
“dried beans”:
L. Frédéric,
Daily Life in Japan at the Time of the Samurai, 1185-1603
(London, 1972), p. 72.

110
“eating and drinking”:
Captain Golownin,
Japan and the Japanese, Comprising the Narrative of a Captivity in Japan,
2 vols. (London, 1853), ii, 147.

110
“their game”:
R. Alcock,
The Capital of the Tycoon: A Narrative of a Three Years' Residence in Japan,
2 vols. (London, 1863), i, 272.

111
club for foreigners:
J. Street,
Mysterious Japan
(London, 1922), pp. 127-28.

111
recapture its spirit:
S. Tsuji,
Japanese Cooking,
pp. 8-14, 21-22.

111
fat and water:
Bober,
Art, Culture and Cuisine,
pp. 72-73.

111
good for stomachache:
Flandrin and Montanari,
Histoire de l'alimentation,
p. 72.

111
“most its own”:
A. Waley,
More Translations from the Chinese
(New York, 1919), pp. 13-14, quoted in Goody,
Cooking, Cuisine and Class
(Cambridge, 1982), p. 112; translation modified.

112
clotted cream and cheese:
Athenaeus,
The Deipnosophists,
iv, 147, trans. C. B. Gulick, 7 vols. (London, 1927-41), ii (1928), pp. 171-75.

112
taken indecorously:
A. Waley,
The Book of Songs
(New York, 1938), x, 7-8.

112
ever creative tension:
Goody,
Cooking, Cuisine and Class,
p. 133.

113
“sea-urchin at a glance”:
Juvenal, Satire 4, 143.

113
scattered with pearls:
T. S. Peterson,
Acquired Tastes: The French Origins of Modern Cuisine
(Ithaca, 1944), p. 48.

114
flamingos' tongues:
C. A. Déry, “Fish As Food and Symbol in Rome,” in Walker, ed.,
Oxford Symposium on the History of Food
(Totnes, 1997), pp. 94-115, at p. 97.

114
nausea in their readers:
E. Gowers,
The Loaded Table: Representations of Food in Roman Literature
(Oxford, 1993), pp. 1-24, 111.

114
white wine:
Montanari,
Culture of Food,
p. 164.

114
“between their legs”:
O. Cartellieri,
The Court of Burgundy
(London, 1972), pp. 40-52.

114
“persecuted by the Turks”:
Ibid., pp. 139-53.

115
what they had eaten:
D. Durston,
Old Kyoto
(Kyoto, 1986), p. 29.

115
“nature provides them”:
J.-C. Bonnet, “The Culinary System in the Encyclopédie,” in R. Forster and O. Ranum,
Food and Drink in History
(Baltimore, 1979), pp. 139-65, at p. 143.

116
pepper and knot grass:
Hu Sihui,
Yinshan Zhengyao—Correct Principles of Eating and Drinking,
quoted in Toussaint-Samat,
History of Food,
p. 329.