Near a Thousand Tables (52 page)

market towns of, 194-95

pesticide use in, 209

wheat yields in, 207

Epicharmus, 102-3

Epictetus, 112

Epps's cocoa, 189

ergotism, 89

Eskimos, 54, 60, 63-64

Essay on Abstinence from Animal Food as a Moral Duty, An
(Ritson), 42-43

Ethiopia, 2, 7, 23, 41, 81, 90, 124, 130, 158, 165

Fagan, Brian, 87

famines, 27, 138, 204-6

Farfán, Agustín, 38

fast food, 19, 20, 96, 146, 190, 219, 220-23

fat consumption, 53-54, 218

fat-tailed sheep, 77

Ferreri, Marco, 204

Fiji Islands, 6, 23, 28, 29, 32, 53, 136

fire, 1-12, 77, 82, 91

animal exploitation of, 9-10

carrying vs. kindling of, 12

as divine gift, 7-8

domestication of, 8-10

in game management, 59, 62, 65, 70

social effects of, 11-12

firepot cookery, 76

Fisher, M. F. K., 109, 111

fish farming, 73-75, 202

fishing, 57, 61, 67, 72-75

Fletcher, Horace, 45-46, 47

Fogg, Wayne, 91-92

foodism, 113, 224

food magic, 20, 21-54

aphrodisiacs in, 32-33, 52

cannibalism as, 27-29, 35, 52

character-forming, 42-43

chastity promoted by, 33, 43

explanations sought for, 31-32

proscribed foods in, 31-32

sacred foods in, 29-31, 86, 99, 100, 176

sympathetic, 33, 42

totemic foods in, 32
see also
dietetics

Forster, Johann Reinhold, 39, 184-85

Framingham study, 54

Francatelli, Charles Elmé, 187-89

France, 19, 102, 122-23, 141, 147-48, 150, 151, 179, 181, 191

Algeria conquered by, 173-74

canning in, 212-13

cuisine of, 55, 90, 124, 126, 127, 132-35, 144, 146, 167

fast food in, 220

meat consumption in, 202

France gourmande, La
(Dumontelli), 124

Frankhthi Cave site, 57

Franklin, Sir John, 213

Frederick II, Holy Roman Emperor, 120

Frederik Hendrik Island, 82

freeze-drying, 155, 211

frozen foods, 214, 215, 218, 219, 222, 223

fusion food, 137, 222, 223

Gage, Thomas, 182

Galen, 34, 35, 37, 123-24, 135

Gama, Vasco da, 36-37, 157-59

Gandhi, Mohandas K., 18, 150

Garcilaso de la Vega, 60

Garrido, Juan, 169, 171

garum sauce, 121, 124

gathering, 57, 58, 59, 62, 78-79, 81, 86-87, 176

as beneficial lifestyle, 82-83 genetically modified foods, 79, 209-10

Genghis Khan, 113

Gerbert of Aurillac, 119

Gesta Romanorum,
123

Gilman, Charlotte Perkins, 18

Giraldus Cambrensis, 33

gold trade, 150-51

González, Pedro, 40

Goody, Jack, 129

Gouffré, Jules, 214

Graham, Sylvester, 43-44

grande bouffe, La,
204

grasses, 79, 85, 88-94, 173

alcoholic drinks from, 95-96

inedible, 88, 170

selective breeding of, 87
see also specific grasses

gravlax, 4, 7

Great Plains, 169-74

Greeks, ancient, 26, 34, 119, 121, 123, 165, 175

cuisine of, 89, 135-36

proscribed foods of, 135

spice trade of, 154-55

trade of, 148-49

Gregory, Bishop of Langres, 126

Grimod de La Reynière, 213

Guadeloupe, 21-22

Guido of Spoleto, 102

Haber, Fritz, 193

haggis, 16

Hale, Sarah, 107

Harlan, Jack R., 79, 82-83

Harris, Marvin, 71

Harrop, George, 49

Hartmann von Aue, 118

Hatshepsut, Queen, 153-54

Hauser, Gayelord, 49

haute cuisine, see elite food styles

Hawaiians, 98, 167

Hay, William, 49

“health” diets, 27, 29, 34, 40-52, 72, 204, 218-19

breakfast cereals in, 44, 45

coarse vs. refined flour in, 51-52

fad, 48-49, 223

high-protein, 46-48, 51, 54

low-fat, 54

low-protein, 43, 44, 45-46, 201

nutritionists and, 44-52

proscribed foods in, 41-43, 45, 47

as pseudo-scientific, 40-41, 45-46, 54

vegetarian, 41-44, 47

vitamins in, 48, 50, 51

whole wheat flour in, 43-44

in World War II, 50-52

Heinz, Henry J., 217, 221

Heliogabulus, Emperor of Rome, 113-14, 117, 191

Henri IV, King of France, 122

Henry II, King of England, 122, 157

herding, 16, 55-75, 76-79, 87, 91

advantages of, 69

animal domestication and, 56, 58, 59, 61, 70

bacteria and, 71-72

cattle, by cowboys, 68, 193-94

dairying enabled by, 70-72

disease reservoirs created by, 68, 75

enhanced cuisine provided by, 69-72

nomadic, by Mongols, 76-78

origins of, 58-66

reindeer management as, 66-68

of scarce prey species, 73-74

selective breeding in, 56, 57, 58, 60, 69, 70, 77, 206

snail farming as, 55-58

trained dogs in, 66, 67, 68

Hermippus, 148

Herodotus, 22, 135

Hershey, Milton Snavely, 198-99

Hill, James, 194

Hines, Daniel, 108

Hines, Duncan, 134

Hirst, Damien, 35

Homer, Winslow, 14

hominy grits, 144

Hopkins, Frederick Gowland, 50

“Horseback Dinner,” 114-15

Hudgins, Sharon, 17

Huichol, 30

Humbert of Romans, 126

humors, theory of, 34, 37, 39, 53

hunting, 57, 58, 71-75, 91, 110, 170

aristocratic, 65-66, 72-73, 81

costliness of, 62-63

as enjoyable pursuit, 61-62, 83

fishing as form of, 57, 61, 72-75

seasonal, 65
see also
gathering

hunting cultures, 4, 59-68, 79, 87, 176

agriculture avoided by, 79, 82-83

animal assistants of, 62-63, 66

classic meal of, 66

competition among, 63, 64, 73

dairy products rejected by, 70

dependence on prey animal in, 66, 68

easier lifestyle of, 82, 83

extinctions caused by, 63, 64, 73, 75, 85

game management of, 59, 62, 65-68

nutritional profiles of, 62

overkill by, 63-64, 69, 73

scavenging in, 61

techniques of, 59-60, 62, 63-65, 66, 70

Huntley, Joseph, 196-97

Huxham, John, 39

Ibn Battuta, 150-51

imperialism, 140-48, 149-50, 166-67, 181

colonialism and, 140, 141-44, 146-47, 171-74, 201

countercolonialism and, 140, 144-46

famine and, 205-6

frontier cuisines and, 140, 141-43

high cuisines and, 140-41

Incas, 60, 129, 149

India, 92, 93, 123, 150, 155, 158, 179, 180

cuisine of, 15, 112, 126, 137, 139-40, 144, 167, 168, 175

famines in, 205, 206

humoral dietary theory in, 34

royal banquets in, 104

industrialization, 84, 124, 180, 183, 187-224

of agriculture, 191-93, 206-10

cheap food as goal of, 202, 204, 223

city growth and, 190, 194

distribution in, 193-96

environment of, 187-90

famines and, 204-6

giant food firms in, 189, 217, 222-23

mealtimes changed by, 190, 219-20, 221, 222

nutrition revolution and, 202-4

population growth and, 189, 202, 210

production and supply in, 189-202, 222

reversing excesses of, 222-24

wartime logistics in, 190
see also
processed foods

Iran, 34, 139-40

Ireland, 14, 26, 165, 167, 168, 179, 180, 204-5

Iroquois, 177

irradiation, 214, 223

Italy, 55, 124-25, 126-27, 137, 156-57, 158, 166, 167, 178, 198, 220

Ivanhoe
(Scott), 133

Jackson, James Caleb, 44

Japan, 5, 17-18, 96, 98, 136, 137, 174

dairy products rejected in, 71

etiquette of, 118

Heian period of, 110

intellectual games in, 115

kaiseki ryori of, 109-11

Jericho, 81, 95

Jerusalem artichokes, 167, 176

Johnson, John Lawson, 201

Johnson, Samuel, 105, 133

Judaism, 31-32, 127, 139

Junger, Sebastian, 73

Jungle, The
(Sinclair), 216

Juvenal, 113

kangaroo management, 59, 70

kava, 53

Kellogg, J. H., 44, 45, 46, 48, 201

Kennedy, John F., 134

Knossos, 103

Korean War, 136

koumiss, 78

Lacandona, 183

lactose intolerance, 70-71, 138

Ladies' Home Journal,
220

Lady Frederick
(Maugham), 106-7

Lamb, Charles, 8-9

La Pérouse, Jean-François de, 39-40, 164

Lapita culture, 98

Laplace, Pierre-Simon, Marquis de, 47

la Roque, Jean de, 181

Las Casas, Bartôlomé de, 26

La Varenne, François Pierre, 123

Lawes, John, 192-93

LeFanu, James, 53-54

Leo Africanus, 78

Léry, Jean de, 26

Lévi-Strauss, Claude, 17

Liebig, Baron Justus von, 46, 200-201

Liebling A. J., 105-6, 134

Lind, James, 38-39

Lipid Research Clinics study, 54

Lipton, Thomas, 195-96

live foods, 2

Livy, 116

Lobo, Jeronimo, 41

Looking Backward
(Bellamy), 220

Louis XIII, King of France, 122

Louis XIV, King of France, 105, 122-23, 179

Lucan, 123

Lynceus, 135-36

MacBride, David, 39

McCarrison, Sir Robert, 51

McCollum, Elmer, 48

MacDonald, Betty, 193

McDonald's, 221, 222-23

McNeill, John, 73

Magellan, Ferdinand, 37

Magendie, François, 200

Maimonides, 31-32

maize, 81, 88, 92, 93-94, 96, 98, 99, 144

cooking of, 94

ecological exchange of, 167, 169, 176-79, 185

sacred, 30, 86, 100, 176

Makassar, 160-61

Malaspina, Alessandro, 40

Malinowski, Bronislaw, 5

manioc, bitter, 10-11

Manuel the Fortunate, King of Portugal, 158

Maoris, 23, 64, 138, 184-85

margarine, 190, 196, 201-2, 204, 218

Mars, Forrest, 199

Masai, 2, 51, 78

Masquerade
(Satterthwaite), 132-33

Massialot, François, 123

Mastrillo, Nicolás de, 136

Maugham, Somerset, 2, 106-7

Max Havalaar, Or, the Coffee Auctions of the Dutch Trading Company
(Dekker), 145, 182

Maximinus the Thracian, 102

Maya, 30, 136

Mead, Richard, 39

meat extracts, 46-47

as processed food, 196, 199-201

meats, 11, 51, 58, 62, 112, 120, 142, 164, 170, 188, 193, 200, 202, 214

biochemical changes in cooking of, 10, 69

ceremonial, 30-31

ersatz substitutes for, 218-19

hanging of, 4, 69

in high-protein diets, 46-48, 51, 54

Mongol horsemen's tenderizing method for, 4, 77

proscribed, 31-32

as proscribed food, 41-43, 45

raw, 6-7

wild, fruit sauces for, 69-70

Medici, Catherine de, 122

Mège-Mouriés, Hippolyte, 201

Mencius, 112

Mesopotamia, 56, 89, 104, 111, 153, 211

Mexico, 30, 93-94, 127-29, 137, 141, 168, 169, 171, 172, 174, 207

microwave cookery, 18, 19-20, 222

Middle Ages, 6, 23, 70, 77, 93, 115, 117, 119-21, 126, 150-51, 175

banqueting halls of, 104

cross-cultural eating in, 139-40

fresh and preserved foods in, 155, 211

ranching in, 172

ready-prepared meals in, 220, 221

spice trade in, 155, 156, 180-81

milk, 4, 51, 70-72, 204, 213

digestibility of, 70-71, 138

mare's, 77-78

preserved, 213, 214
see also
dairy products

millet, 78, 88, 90-92, 93, 96, 144, 170

Mirande, Yves, 105-6

Moby Dick
(Melville), 25

Moche, 73, 129

molasses, 144, 168

mollusk farming, 55-58, 74

Moluco, Sancho, 160

Mongols, 4, 6, 60, 76-78, 197

Montagu, Lady Mary Wortley, 109

Montaigne, Michel Eyquem de, 26, 105

Montezuma, 127-28, 168

Moroccan cuisine, 146-47

Morton, W. V., 195

Mosley, Sir Oswald, 194-95

Murrie, R. Bruce, 199

Napoleon I, Emperor of France, 43, 113, 122, 133, 141, 179

nardoo plant, 10, 82

Native Americans, 24, 144, 168, 170, 172, 173, 174, 176-77

alleged cannibalism of, 23

courtly cuisine of, 127-29

decimation of, by Old World diseases, 68, 166

dogs as sacred food of, 31

game management of, 59, 62, 65

maize and, 30, 93-94, 96, 99

marine fishing by, 73

overkill hunting by, 63-64

roots and tubers of, 99-100

wine and, 169

Natufian culture, 81

“natural” foods, 2, 18

Nenets, 2, 67, 68

Nepal, 6

Nero, banquets of, 104

Netherlands, 144

coffee trade of, 182

cuisine of, 145-46

salt trade of, 150, 151-52

spice trade of, 151, 159-61, 166-67

New Guinea, 12, 24, 27-28, 81, 82, 98, 99

New Zealand, 137, 138, 168, 184-85

Nichols, Thomas, 175

Nicholson, George, 42

nomadism, 16-17, 67, 140

Mongol, 4, 6, 60, 76-78, 197

Nuer, 2

Odell, Arthur, 204

Odyssey
(Homer), 13, 17, 22, 125

offal, 125-26

On Cannibals
(Montaigne), 26

organic farming movement, 224

Orr, John Boyd, 51

Orwell, George, 148

Oslo study, 54

Oswald, John, 42

Ottoman Empire, 140-41

Oviedo, Gonzalo Fernández de, 175

oysters, 1-3, 4, 125

dishes made with, 2-3, 126

in shell middens, 57

Packer, Alferd, 24, 25