Near a Thousand Tables (47 page)

46
“concentrated form”:
Ibid., p. 31. Henry Chavasse thought children should be protected from vegetables.
Advice to Mothers on the Management of Their Offspring
(1839), quoted in S. Mennell, “Indigestion in the Nineteenth Century: Aspects of English Taste and Anxiety,”
Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery, 1987: Taste: Proceedings
(London, 1988), pp. 153-66.

47
“chew the residue”:
Brillat-Savarin,
Philosopher in the Kitchen,
p. 304.

47
“an old vinegar-barrel”:
J. H. Salisbury,
The Relation of Alimentation and Disease
(New York, 1888), p. 94.

47
tear and digest meat:
Ibid., pp. 145-48.

48
“meat if desired”:
Ibid., pp. 97-98, 127, 135, 140.

48
“on every jar'”:
Levenstein,
Revolution at the Table,
p. 41.

48
until the 1930s:
Ibid., p. 149.

48
unhealthy food doles:
D. A. Roe,
A Plague of Corn: The Social History of Pellagra
(Ithaca, 1973); E. H. Beardsley,
A History of Neglect: Health Care for Blacks and Millworkers in the Twentieth-Century South
(Knoxville, 1987).

48
“white-flour bread”:
Ibid., p. 155.

48
Cream of Wheat:
Ibid., p. 159.

49
“Grapefruit-juice Diet”:
H. Levenstein,
Paradox of Plenty: A Social History of Eating in Modern America
(Oxford, 1993).

49
the Duchess of Windsor:
Ibid., pp. 11-12.

49
“fat rolls off”:
B. G. Hauser,
The Gayelord Hauser Cookbook
(New York, 1946).

49
“improperly balanced”:
L. R. Wolberg,
The Psychology of Eating
(London, 1937), p. x.

49
“Greenland Eskimo”:
Ibid., pp. 36-38.

50
“into his mouth”:
Ibid., p. 18.

50
produced by rotting:
P. M. Gaman and K. B. Sherrington,
The Science of Food
(Oxford, 1996), p. 102.

50
“high natural levels”:
Levenstein,
Paradox of Plenty,
p. 21.

50
“The oomph vitamin”:
Ibid., p. 22.

50
U.S. Food Agency:
Ibid., p. 64.

51
“kill more Japs”:
Ibid., pp. 69, 71, 75-76, 95.

51
colitis and dysentery:
R. McCarrison,
Nutrition and Health
(London, n.d.), p. 18.

51
Kikuyu neighbors:
Ibid., pp. 23, 51, 75, 78.

52
weight equally:
J. LeFanu,
Eat Your Heart Out: The Fallacy of the Healthy Diet
(London, 1987), pp. 56-61.

52
according to Jolan Chang:
J. Chang,
Zest for Life: Live Disease-Free with the Tao
(Stockholm, 1995).

52
“forces”
restored: Ibid., p. 23.

52
“all the same”:
G. B. Bragg and D. Simon,
The Ayurvedic Cookbook
(New York, 1997).

52
“the effects are amazing”:
U. Lecordier,
The High-Sexuality Diet
(London, 1984), pp. 17-23.

52
“for many centuries”:
H. C. Lu,
The Chinese System of Using Foods to Stay Young
(New York, 1996), p. 27.

52
“eat brain”:
J.-M. Bourre,
Brainfood
(Boston, 1990), pp. 57-65.

53
increased cholesterol:
Jansen,
Food and Nutrition in Fiji,
ii, pp. 554-69.

53
button mushrooms:
Lu,
Chinese System of Using Foods,
p. 9.

53
“tea prevents scurvy”:
Ibid., pp. 10-18.

54
“non-alcoholic punch”:
“The British Are Digging Their Own Graves with Their Teeth,”
Northants Chronicle and Echo,
quoted in LeFanu,
Eat Your Heart Out,
p. 21.

54
no weight gain at all:
Ibid., pp. 28-29.

54
high cholesterol counts:
H. L. Abrams, “Vegetarianism: An Anthropological-Nutritional Evaluation,”
Journal of Applied Nutrition,
xii (1980), 53-87.

54
foraging cultures:
L. L. Cavalli-Sforza, “Human Evolution and Nutrition,” in D. N. Walcher and N. Kretchmer, eds.,
Food Nutrition and Evolution: Food As an Environmental Factor in the Genesis of Human Variability
(Chicago, 1981), p. 2.

55
“Water Buffalo”:
Quoted in F. T. Cheng,
Musings of a Chinese Gourmet
(London, 1962), p. 73.

55
“lobster and foie gras”:
Flandrin and Montanari,
Histoire de l'alimentation,
p. 776.

56
plenty of meat:
D. Brothwell and P. Brothwell,
Food in Antiquity
(London, 1969), p. 67.

56
for invalids:
P. J. Ucko and G. W. Dimbleby, eds.,
The Domestication and Exploitation of Plants and Animals: A Survey of the Diet of Early Peoples
(Baltimore, 1998).

56
heart of Boston:
Clark,
Oysters of Locqmariaquer,
pp. 39-40.

56
today's equivalents:
Brothwell and Brothwell,
Food in Antiquity,
p. 64; J. G. Evans, “The Exploitation of Molluscs,” in Ucko and Dimbleby,
Domestication and Exploitation
(London, 1969), pp. 479-84.

57
tuna bones:
Dalby,
Siren Feasts,
p. 38.

57
Mesolithic middens:
G. Clark,
World Prehistory in New Perspective
(New York, 1977), pp. 113-14.

57
natural oyster beds:
Clark,
Oysters,
p. 39; M. Toussaint-Samat,
History of Food
(London, 1992), p. 385.

58
bigger game:
Flandrin and Montanari,
Histoire de l'alimentation,
p. 41.

58
crop failure:
K. V. Flannery, “Origins and Ecological Effects of Early Domestication in Iran and the Near East,” in Ucko and Dimbleby,
Domestication and Exploitation,
pp. 73-100.

59
developed together:
T. Ingold, “Growing Plants and Raising Animals: An Anthropological Perspective on Domestication,” in D. R. Harris, ed.,
The Origins and Spread of Agriculture and Pastoralism in Eurasia
(London, 1996), pp. 12-24; H.-P. Uepermann, “Animal Domestication: Accident or Intention,” in ibid., pp. 227-37.

59
were encouraged:
W. Cronon,
Changes in the Land: Indians, Colonists and the Ecology of New England
(New York, 1983), pp. 49-51.

60
“whole race to degenerate”:
C. Darwin,
The Variation of Animals and Plants Under Domestication,
2 vols. (London, 1868), ii, 207-9.

61
“It was gorgeous”:
J. M. Barrie,
The Admirable Crichton,
Act 3, Scene 1.

62
“meat I wanted”:
Lévi-Strauss,
Raw and the Cooked,
p. 82.

62
animals into traps:
T. F. Kehoe, “Coralling: Evidence from Upper Paleolithic Cave Art,” in L. B. Davis and B. O. K. Reeves, eds.,
Hunters of the Recent Past
(London, 1990), pp. 34-46.

62
vitamin C:
S. B. Eaton and M. Konner, “Paleolithic Nutrition: A Consideration of Its Nature and Current Implications,”
New England Journal of Medicine,
cccxii (1985), 283-89; S. B. Eaton, M. Shostak and M. Konner,
The Stone-Age Health Programme
(London, 1988), pp. 77-83.

64
to their enemies:
O. Blehr, “Communal Hunting As a Prerequisite for Caribou (Wild Reindeer) As Human Resource,” in Davis and Reeves,
Hunters of the Recent Past,
pp. 304-26.

64
hungry for fat:
B. A. Jones, “Paleoindians and Proboscideans: Ecological Determinants of Selectivity in the Southwestern United States,” in Davis and Reeves,
Hunters of the Recent Past,
pp. 68-84.

64
a one-ton lizard:
J. Diamond,
Guns, Germs and Steel: The Fates of Human Societies
(London, 1997), p. 43.

65
dance could begin:
L. van der Post,
The Lost World of the Kalahari
(London, 1961), pp. 234-40.

65
killing grounds:
J. C. Driver, “Meat in Due Season: The Timing of Communal Hunts,” in Davis and Reeves,
Hunters of the Recent Past,
pp. 11-33.

66
“they are thirsty”:
G. Parker Winship, ed.,
The Journey of Coronado
(Golden, 1990), p. 117.

67
to live on:
L. Forsberg, “Economic and Social Change in the Interior of Northern Sweden, 6,000
B.C.
-1,000
A.D.
,” in T. B. Larson and H. Lundmark, eds.,
Approaches to Swedish Prehistory: A Spectrum of Problems and Perspectives in Contemporary Research
(Oxford, 1989), pp. 75-77.

67
a surprising appetite:
Donner,
Among the Samoyed,
p. 104.

67
six hundred strong:
R. Bosi,
The Lapps
(New York, 1960), p. 53.

67
to winter quarters:
A. Spencer,
The Lapps
(New York, 1978), pp. 43-59.

68
two thousand reindeer:
P. Hadjo,
The Samoyed Peoples and Languages
(Bloomington, 1963), p. 10.

68
with his teeth:
Donner,
Among the Samoyed,
p. 106.

68
it to the corral:
J. H. Cook,
Fifty Years on the Old Frontier
(Norman, 1954), pp. 14-18.

68
Native American populations:
N. D. Cook,
Born to Die: Disease and New World Conquest, 1492-1650
(Cambridge, 1998), p. 28.

68
“exchange genes”:
J. McNeil,
Something New Under the Sun
(London, 2000), p. 210.

69
two stomachs:
R. J. Adams,
Come an' Get It: The Story of the Old Cowboy Cook
(Norman, 1952), quoted in A. Davidson,
The Oxford Companion to Food
(Oxford, 1999).

70
a domestic breed:
See Diamond,
Guns, Germs and Steel,
pp. 168-75.

70
on capture:
G. C. Frison, C. A. Reher and D. N. Walker, “Prehistoric Mountain Sheep Hunting in the Central Rocky Mountains of North America,” in Davis and Reeves,
Hunters of the Recent Past,
pp. 218-40.

71
unused to it:
M. Harris,
Good to Eat: Riddles of Food and Culture
(London, 1986), pp. 131-32.

73
previous centuries combined:
McNeil,
Something New Under the Sun,
p. 246.

73
zero in 1980:
Ibid., pp. 248-51; L. P. Paine,
Down East: A Maritime History of Maine
(Gardiner, 2000), pp. 118-33.

74
the tide falls:
Jansen,
Food and Nutrition in Fiji,
i, 397.

75
usual habitat:
Toussaint-Samat,
History of Food,
pp. 326-27.

76
“vanish completely”:
Trans. William Radice (London, 2000).

77
“‘feed like princes'”:
Brillat-Savarin,
Philosopher in the Kitchen,
pp. 243-44.

78
gather them wild:
Leo Africanus, quoted in M. Brett and E. Femtress,
The Berbers
(Oxford, 1996), p. 201.

80
farming came about:
A. B. Gebauer and T. D. Price, “Foragers to Farmers: An Introduction,” in
The Transition to Agriculture in Prehistory
(Madison, 1992), pp. 1-10.

80
“period of civilisation”:
Darwin,
Variation of Animals and Plants,
i, 309-10.

80
“in New York”:
Diamond,
Guns, Germs and Steel,
pp. 14-22.

81
“seas of wild rice”:
C. A. Reed, ed.,
Origins of Agriculture
(The Hague, 1977), p. 370.

81
ninth millennium
B.C.:
J. R. Harlan, “The Origins of Cereal Agriculture in the Old World,” in Gebauer and Price, “Foragers to Farmers,” pp. 357-83, 363.

82
more tyranny:
M. N. Cohen and G. J. Armelagos,
Paleopathology at the Origins of Agriculture
(New York, 1984), pp. 51-73.

82
way of life:
L. R. Binford, “Post-Pleistocene Adaptations,” in S. R. Binford and L. R. Binford, eds.,
New Perspectives in Archaeology
(Chicago, 1968), pp. 313-41; M. D. Sahlins, “Notes on the Original Affluent Society,” in R. B. Lee and I. DeVore, eds.,
Man the Hunter
(Chicago, 1968), pp. 85-88;
Stone Age Economics
(Chicago, 1972), especially pp. 1-39.

82
“work as hard”:
J. R. Harlan,
Crops and Man
(Madison, 1992), p. 27.

82
be highly toxic:
T. Bonyhady,
Burke and Wills: From Melbourne to Myth
(Balmain, 1991), pp. 137-39, 140-41.

83
“living conditions”:
J. R. Harlan,
Crops and Man
(Madison, 1992), p. 27.

83
“‘cut wheat'”:
Ibid., p. 8.

85
climatic prerequisites:
V. G. Childe,
Man Makes Himself
(London, 1936);
Piecing Together the Past
(London, 1956).