Ready for Dessert (4 page)

RAMEKINS AND CUSTARD CUPS

You can use elegant porcelain 4-ounce (60-ml) ramekins or basic 6-ounce (180-ml) Pyrex custard cups that are available in supermarkets and hardware stores. Really, any ovenproof custard cups are fine to use. You may have good luck searching garage sales and antique stores for vintage sets.

ROLLING PIN

There are lots of rolling pins out there made from modern materials, but I’m hopelessly attached to ones made from good old-fashioned wood. I’ve switched from one with handles and ball bearings to the simple kind, just a spindle of wood, otherwise known as a French rolling pin. Use whichever kind of rolling pin you prefer.

SAUCEPANS AND SKILLETS

Cheap pots and pans are badly balanced, warp easily, and don’t last. They also have hot spots which will cause your food to cook unevenly. Worst of all, they’re a pain to clean. This is one category of kitchen equipment that I refuse to compromise on.

My favorite cookware is made by All-Clad. It’s well designed, solid, cooks evenly, and has handles that stay cool on the stovetop. If you can, go to a cookware store, heft as many pans as you can, and get what feels right for you. Good cookware is an excellent investment that few cooks regret making, and starter sets are an inexpensive way to start a collection.

For the purposes of the recipes in this book, a small saucepan is one that holds up to 2 quarts (2 liters), a medium saucepan holds up to 4 quarts (4 liters), and a large saucepan (or Dutch oven) holds more than 4 quarts (4 liters). A large skillet measures at least 10 inches (25 cm) in diameter.

I use nonstick skillets for frying crêpes. When the nonstick finish begins to show any signs of aging, I replace the pan. Recent to the market and worth investigating are “green” nonstick cookware that claim to be made by eco-friendly methods.

SCALE

Since many pastry recipes call for ingredients that are impractical to measure by volume, like chocolate, you’ll want to have an accurate scale. I recommend a digital one. Unless you’re a scientist, it need not be the pinnacle of precision. A reasonably priced one is adequate for home bakers.

SPATULAS, SPOONS, AND LADLES

I favor heatproof silicone spatulas. Since discovering them, all other rubber spatulas have been relegated to the drawer of
RIP
kitchen utensils. I use a heatproof spatula for everything from mixing ice cream custards to stirring caramel. I’m partial to Le Creuset spatula “spoons,” which have a slight curve to their blades and are good for scooping and folding ingredients; they just feel right in my hand. I keep at least five or six heatproof spatulas in my kitchen.

Both straight and offset (angled) metal icing spatulas are good for decorating, spreading icings, and leveling the surface of batters. I have both types in two sizes: small, with a 4-inch (10-cm) blade, and large, with an 8- to 10-inch (20- to 25-cm) blade. I don’t use them often, but when I need one, I’m always glad that I have it on hand. Wide metal or plastic spatulas are useful for removing cookies from baking sheets.

For stirring, both stainless and wooden spoons are suitable utensils. A 1- or 2-ounce (30- to 60-ml) ladle is handy for tempering eggs for custards, pouring crêpe batter, and, of course, ladling sauces.

STAND MIXER

A good, sturdy stand mixer is likely to be your biggest expense as a baker. I use a KitchenAid 5-quart mixer because that’s the machine I feel most comfortable with, having used it as a pastry chef in restaurants.
Make sure that the stand mixer you use is powerful and stable so it doesn’t walk off the counter while it’s beating a batter and you’ve turned your back.

I also recommend buying an extra stand-mixer bowl and extra paddle and whisk attachments. Having doubles will save you the trouble of scrambling to wash and dry them when you need clean equipment midway through a recipe. If you don’t have room for a stand mixer, a powerful handheld mixer is the next best thing.

STORAGE CONTAINERS

Having frequently used ingredients in easy-to-access containers is a pleasure for any baker. There’s nothing more frustrating than trying to scoop flour out of a crinkly paper sack. Plastic tubs with airtight lids will keep things fresh and organized. I keep flour, sugar, and nuts in rectangular plastic containers, available at restaurant supply stores and cookware shops, although to be honest, I’ve scored a lot of my best ones at garage sales and thrift stores.

Always store cookies in an airtight container at room temperature. Tin or plastic works best. I don’t recommend those ceramic cookie jars because they’re just too tempting to steal from.

STRAINERS

I use a stainless steel fine-mesh strainer for straining custards and infusions. A strainer can also double as a sieve for sifting, mixing, and aerating dry ingredients, and for dusting baked goods with powdered sugar.

TART PANS

Sometimes called quiche pans, tart pans are two-piece metal pans with removable bottoms that fit into shallow rings with scalloped sides. The tart recipes in this book call for 9-inch (23-cm) round tart pans. You can also use a straight-sided tart ring—a bottomless form that needs to be placed on a flat baking sheet lined with parchment paper or a silicone mat.

THERMOMETERS

Check the accuracy of your oven periodically with an oven thermometer. An instant-read thermometer is useful for checking the temperature of custards, and a candy or jelly thermometer, preferably one with a metal back (ones made entirely of glass break too easily), is handy for ensuring that candies and preserved fruits are cooked to the correct temperature. After using a candy thermometer, clean it and store it right away in a sturdy cardboard tube from a roll of paper towels to prevent breakage.

TIMERS

Since timing is critical for most baked goods, especially cookies, always use a timer. Most stoves have one built in, but it may not be as accurate as a digital or wind-up model.

WHISKS

You should have a wide balloon whisk for whipping anything in a bowl (such as egg whites) and a long, straight whisk for whisking in saucepans. Buy only good-quality whisks that can stand up to being whacked against a bowl or the sides of a pan. Use a metal whisk for whipping egg whites, as a silicone one can harbor oil that will prevent the whites from whipping up properly.