Ready for Dessert (3 page)

EGGS

All the recipes in this book use large eggs. For purposes of measurement, one large egg contains 2 tablespoons of white and 1 tablespoon of yolk. When a recipe calls for room temperature eggs, remove them from the refrigerator 30 minutes before using. If you forget to take them out, put the eggs (in their shells) in a bowl filled with warm water for 5 minutes before using.

ESPRESSO

The bold flavor of espresso is important in my recipes that call for it, so do not substitute coffee. If you don’t have an espresso machine, consider making a deal with your local barista, trading a slice of cake for a few shots. Otherwise, I recommend an inexpensive stove-top espresso-maker called a
moka
pot. Non-purists can mix 1 heaping teaspoon of instant espresso powder (or to taste, depending on the brand) with ¼ cup (60 ml) of boiling water and use that in place of espresso.

FLOUR

Nearly all of the recipes in this book that use flour use all-purpose flour. Either bleached or unbleached is suitable. There are a couple recipes that call for cake flour and one that calls for buckwheat flour. Buckwheat flour is available in well-stocked supermarkets and natural food stores.

GELATIN

Granules of gelatin need to be softened before they’re heated or added to other ingredients. To soften, sprinkle them evenly over the surface of the cold water called for in the recipe, then let stand for 5 minutes. Once “bloomed,” stir the swollen granules and the liquid over very low heat until just dissolved, or heat the water or liquid called for in the recipe, then pour over the softened gelatin and stir until dissolved.

Gelatin-based desserts need to chill for several hours or overnight to set, so plan accordingly. If you want a gelatin dessert (such as
panna cotta
or
gelée
) to set quickly, put the mixture in a metal bowl set over an ice bath and stir constantly with a rubber spatula to promote even jelling and
discourage lumps from forming until the mixture is cool but still fluid. Pour it into the serving dishes or molds and refrigerate until set. Chilling the serving or storage containers before filling them will speed things up, too.

Most packets of gelatin contain 2¼ teaspoons (7g) of powder. If you purchase gelatin that’s loose, use that measurement as your guideline.

MILK, CREAM, AND CRÈME FRAÎCHE

In this book, “milk” always means whole milk. Do not substitute low-fat or nonfat milk unless the recipe indicates you can, as you won’t be satisfied with the results.

I strongly recommend finding good heavy cream from a local dairy that has not been ultrapasteurized and has a fresh, sweet taste. Keep it well chilled until ready to use. If you are making whipped cream, it’s a good idea to chill the bowl and the beaters before whipping the cream.

Crème fraîche is cream that has been cultured, giving it a slight tang and a thick, silky richness. You can make your own version of crème fraîche: mix 1 cup (250 ml) of heavy cream with 1 tablespoon of buttermilk (or crème fraîche from a previous batch) and store it in a warm place until thickened, about 24 hours. Crème fraîche is also available in well-stocked supermarkets and online (see
Resources
). Homemade crème fraîche will keep for about 1 week.

NUTS

Most of the nuts called for in this book are easily obtainable. Nuts do not improve with age, so buy them from places that sell lots of them and whose supply is constantly refreshed. Farmers’ markets are wonderful sources of nuts, as growers usually sell them as close to harvest as possible.

The primary enemy of oil-rich nuts is rancidity. Pecans and hazelnuts are especially vulnerable. Check for visible mold or signs of infestation before buying. Bakers with lots of freezer space at home, which excludes me, may wish to store them in the freezer.

OIL

Some recipes in the book call for vegetable oil. Any neutral-tasting, unflavored oil is suitable. One exception to the unflavored rule is Lion & Globe peanut oil, which has the flavor of roasted peanuts. It’s stocked in Asian markets. When available, I like to use it in my
Fresh Ginger Cake
.

SPICES

Most of the recipes specify ground spices. But certain spices, like nutmeg and cardamom, should be freshly ground right before using, because once ground, they quickly lose their distinct aroma. Nutmeg can be grated with a rasp-style grater; cardamom seeds are best ground with a mortar and pestle or spice grinder, or can be crushed in a sturdy freezer bag with a rolling pin.

Buy ground spices in small quantities and use them within a year. There are excellent spice merchants in cities and online (see
Resources
), and it’s always worth searching out top-quality spices for best results.

SUGAR AND OTHER SWEETENERS

Sugar is, of course, a sweetener. It also provides moisture, and in small quantities, it heightens the flavors of fruits, chocolate, and other ingredients. Granulated white sugar is the most widely used type, but there are a few other sugars and liquid sweeteners that I bake with.

Granulated White Sugar

When “sugar” is called for in the recipes, I mean granulated white sugar. Baker’s sugar or superfine sugar is finely ground granulated sugar. It can be used anywhere granulated sugar is called for.

Brown Sugar

Both light and dark brown sugars are fluffed up during processing and need to be firmly packed into a measuring cup for proper measurement. Use the type of brown sugar called for in the recipe for the best results.

Coarse-Crystal Sugar

Just as its name suggests, granules of coarse-crystal sugar are large and coarse. When sprinkled over a cookie or pastry before baking, the sugar gives the finished dessert a pleasant crackly crunch. Raw coarse-crystal sugars, some known as turbinado or demerara sugar, are amber in color, while other types are white or translucent. I prefer the raw ones. Hawaiian washed raw sugar made by C&H Sugar Company is available in supermarkets on the West Coast. You can buy coarse-crystal sugar online (see
Resources
) or in natural food and baking supply stores.

Powdered Sugar

Sometimes called confectioners’ sugar, this is pulverized white sugar with a small amount of starch added to prevent caking. If it’s lumpy, sift before using. Because it contains starch, powdered sugar shouldn’t be substituted for granulated sugar.

Agave Nectar

Obtained by juicing agave plants, this naturally sweet nectar has become popular because of its low glycemic index and because it’s a natural alternative to refined sugars. I like it because the taste doesn’t overpower other ingredients. It’s available in natural food stores in light and dark varieties, and I’ve offered it in a few recipes as an alternative to corn syrup. If using it in place of corn syrup, use a light agave nectar that has a mild flavor.

Corn Syrup

Light corn syrup is vital in a few recipes to prevent sugar from recrystallizing or because it provides the correct texture. If it’s possible to substitute another liquid sweetener, I’ve indicated so in the recipe.

Honey

Any locally produced honey is always better than bland supermarket varieties. Some are syrupy sweet and others, such as chestnut and buckwheat, have a pleasant bitter edge. My taste tends toward the latter, but you can use any kind when a recipe calls for honey. If your honey crystallizes, warm the jar in a small saucepan of barely simmering water, or in a microwave, until it liquefies.

Maple Syrup

This natural product comes in various grades. I always get one labeled “dark amber,” which has a stronger maple flavor than light amber syrups.

Molasses

When called for in recipes, use mild-flavored unsulphured molasses (sometimes called “light” molasses, which can be confusing as “light” is a term often used to describe reduced-calorie products). Both “full flavor” and blackstrap molasses have rather assertive flavors that can easily dominate, which is why I prefer lighter-flavored molasses. But, if you like a strong molasses flavor, feel free to use “full flavor” or blackstrap.

TAPIOCA

Pearls of tapioca are made by squeezing manioc (aka cassava) root over a hot plate; when the sap hits the plate, it bounces off and creates little pearls. Grind tapioca pearls into a fine powder and you get tapioca flour, an excellent thickener. Tapioca flour is available at Asian markets and from the King Arthur Flour Company (see
Resources
). Small pearl tapioca, which is used in
Coconut Tapioca Pudding
is easily found in Asian markets and is not the same as the boxed quick-cooking tapioca stocked in supermarkets.

VANILLA

I don’t mind spending top dollar for wonderful vanilla and I treat my bottles of extract and vanilla beans like precious jewels. Store vanilla beans in an airtight container in a cool, dry place—but not in the refrigerator where the moisture invites mold.

Even if I use a vanilla bean in a recipe, I always add a capful of vanilla extract as well, as I find that the extract provides a dynamic vanilla flavor, while the bean provides something more perfumed and aromatic.

If you wish to substitute one for the other, 1 vanilla bean is the equivalent of 2 to 3 teaspoons of extract, depending on the quality of the bean. Due to variations in strength, substitutions using vanilla bean pastes and powder can vary. I find ½ teaspoon powder or paste equals the strength of 1 teaspoon vanilla extract.

Vanilla Extract

Be sure to only use pure vanilla extract. There simply is no substitute. Tahitian vanilla has a delicate floral scent and flavor and I like it with desserts that feature tropical fruit. Bourbon vanilla is more assertive and is best used in cakes and cookies as it stands up well to baking. Real Mexican vanilla is excellent, although hard to find. It’s my favorite vanilla of all. (Beware of the cheap imitation stuff that’s sometimes labeled “real” and sold by the quart to tourists south of the border.) Vanilla extract should be stored in a cool, dark place and kept tightly capped.

Vanilla Beans

The fragrant dried and cured pods of a tropical orchid are ideal for steeping in ice cream and custard mixtures. Avoid cheap vanilla beans, which often smell smoky, as well as beans that are dried out and brittle. A good sniff should help you gauge the quality of the vanilla beans.

To use vanilla beans, split them lengthwise with a paring knife and scrape the tiny flavorful seeds into whatever you’re cooking. The pod can be used for infusing flavor as well. You can reuse the pods by rinsing and drying them thoroughly, then storing them embedded in white sugar, or in a jar of rum or bourbon.

Vanilla Bean Paste and Powder

Both of these are made with dried vanilla beans and seeds that are ground to a fine powder. Vanilla bean paste is made by macerating the powder in a sweetened liquid base. See above for substitutions.

While it’s nice to have an arsenal of fancy equipment
, most bakers can get by pretty well with the basics: a set of measuring spoons and cups, a couple of nesting bowls, a saucepan and a skillet, a spatula, a few knives, and a whisk. Of course, baking is much easier and more enjoyable if you have a few extra spatulas on hand; a top-quality, sharp knife is not only easier to use, but safer too; and an electric stand mixer makes beating batters and doughs a breeze.

I’ve enjoyed a grand American-style designer kitchen equipped with a professional multiburner stove with enough BTUs to cater dinner for a few hundred. I’ve also baked in a tiny apartment with an oven I wouldn’t wish on my worst enemy and a counter so small that two bowls couldn’t sit on it side by side. The two kitchens produced identical results. The secret is being able to adapt to your circumstances.

I don’t call for any fancy equipment. Everything used in this book can be found in most hardware or cookware stores, or even in the housewares aisle at your local supermarket. And, of course, with the Internet, everything is just a few clicks away.

The biggest tip I can offer about kitchen equipment is to buy the best you can. Fortunately, the best isn’t always the most expensive. When in doubt, commercial-quality gear from a restaurant supply store is a good bet. Anything that can stand up to abuse day after day will likely do pretty well in your home kitchen, too.

BAKING DISHES

Recipes in this book that require a baking dish are scaled for 2-quart (2-liter) rectangular or oval baking dishes. Porcelain, ceramic, and earthenware are the most common materials. Enamel-coated cast iron bakers don’t break as easily but are heavier and more expensive. A very large baking dish or roasting pan is necessary to make a water bath for gently baking custards and delicate cakes such as
Chocolate Orbit Cake
.

BAKING SHEETS

You should have at least two baking sheets. Mine measure about 12 by 18 inches (30 by 46 cm) and have sides that can contain runny cake batters and give me something to grip when moving cookies about during and after baking. If you prefer, you can use rimless baking sheets for cookies. Avoid flimsy baking sheets and ones with a dark finish as they heat too quickly, causing cookies to burn on their bottoms. Insulated baking sheets, dark or otherwise, protect against burnt bottoms, although you may need to increase the baking time if using this type.

CAKE DOME

If you make lots of cakes, a covered cake stand, or cake dome, is a worthwhile purchase. It’s a great way to present and store cakes, especially ones that are glazed, frosted, or have sticky surfaces, because the domed cover leaves the icing unscathed. Cake stands can be found at cookware stores and restaurant supply shops. Beautiful vintage stands can be sleuthed out in antique shops and flea markets by those with a sharp eye.

CAKE PANS

Cake pans come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and materials. The recipes in this book use only a few different types, but it’s important to use the right shape and size so that your cake bakes up properly.

Round Cake Pans

Many of the cake recipes in this book call for a 9-inch (23-cm) round cake pan with sides 2 to 3 inches (5 to 8 cm) high. Pans that are shallower don’t hold enough batter for these cakes.

Springform Pans

A 9-inch (23-cm) springform pan is necessary for delicate cakes that can’t be removed from their pans by flipping them out. I use one with a glass bottom, which makes serving a whole lot easier (and prettier). Most springform pans leak, so before filling it with batter, wrap yours securely on the outside and up the sides with a single sheet of aluminum foil, making sure there are no tears or openings.

Bundt Pans

For some recipes, you’ll need a 10-cup (2.5 liter) Bundt cake or tube pan about 10 inches (25 cm) in diameter. These days, Bundt pans are made with a variety of decorative patterns and elaborate designs, but I’m a bit of a traditionalist and prefer those that are simple and elegant. Note that the shape and design of the Bundt pan can affect the cake’s baking time.

Muffin Tins

For cupcakes, I use a standard muffin tin with cups that are 2½ inches (7 cm) across the top, and hold ½ cup (125 ml) of batter in each. For
Green Tea Financiers
I use a mini muffin tin with 24 tiny cups, each with a 1½-tablespoon capacity.

COOLING RACKS

A flat wire rack is useful for cooling cakes and sheets of just-baked cookies. You may need more than one if the recipe yields a lot of cookies.

CUTTING BOARDS

I recommend plastic cutting boards for baking tasks because they don’t absorb odors and are dishwasher safe. I reserve one specifically for cutting fruits, which garlic and onions aren’t allowed anywhere near. (I pity the person who grabs the wrong one in my kitchen and begins mincing garlic without asking first.)

FOOD MILL

They’ve fallen out of favor, but food mills do a great job of separating the seeds from the pulp of raspberries and blackberries without cracking the seeds, which causes bitterness. If you don’t have one, purée berries in a food processor, then press the pulp through a mesh sieve to separate out the seeds.

FOOD PROCESSOR AND BLENDER

I use a food processor fitted with the metal blade to chop lots of fresh ginger for recipes such as my
Fresh Ginger Cake
and to prepare certain types of pastry doughs. I prefer to chop nuts by hand because I find the processor does an uneven job, leaving some nuts almost whole, while turning others to dust.

A blender is great for puréeing cooked fruits for sorbets and preserves. If you are puréeing something hot, remember to fill the jar of a blender no more than halfway full or the hot liquid and steam can shoot out over the top and cause injury. A handheld immersion blender has the advantage of letting you purée directly in a saucepan, bowl, or measuring cup, eliminating the chore of washing the blender jar.

GRATERS AND VEGETABLE PEELERS

In baking, the job of graters is to remove the colorful and highly flavorful part of the citrus skin that contains the essential oils. I use a rasp-style grater, working directly over the pan or bowl to collect the oil that sprays as you grate as well as the zest itself. That’s why in many recipes, I call for the “zest of ½ lemon” rather than a specific quantity, which would require zesting over a cutting board and losing all that lovely citrus oil. If you don’t have a rasp-style grater, use a regular grater or a zester, then chop the peel very fine.

A sharp-bladed vegetable peeler is the tool for stripping off large, wide pieces of zest. Avoid using too much pressure; it’s best to leave as much of the bitter white pith behind as possible. Some people use a peeler to pare the skin off apples and pears, although I always use a paring knife. As with other kitchen tools, get a vegetable peeler that feels good in your hand.

ICE CREAM MACHINE

Thankfully, there are several inexpensive machines on the market with motors that simply snap on and put homemade ice cream within anyone’s reach. These machines work well, although the churning containers must be frozen a full 24 hours before use. (In spite of what the instructions might say about pre-freezing time, I find they’re being hopelessly optimistic if they call for less.) Folks with plenty of freezer space often store their canister in there all the time so that it’s ready whenever they need it.

If you like ice cream (as I do), and make it regularly (as I do), you should treat yourself to a machine with a self-contained internal refrigeration unit. It lets you freeze ice cream with a lot less hassle, though price can be a deterrent.

Cuisinart makes good ice cream machines in various price ranges, including a relatively affordable model that’s self-refrigerating. Rival-White Mountain makes models that require ice and rock salt, which are nice if you like to churn your ice cream in the great outdoors. And KitchenAid makes a stand-mixer attachment specifically for freezing ice cream.

If you don’t have an ice cream machine, you can make ice cream and sorbets by freezing the mixture in a shallow plastic container. As it begins to freeze, beat it vigorously by hand or with a handheld mixer, then return it to the freezer. Repeat every 30 minutes or so. When it becomes too hard to stir, it’s done.

JUICER

I use a Mexican-style metal citrus press for juicing lemon, lime, and orange halves. The press simply squeezes the juice out of the fruit, and a bowl or measuring cup placed under the juicer catches the liquid. If you need a lot of juice, an electric juicer is likely faster.

Citrus fruit for juicing should be room temperature, not cold. Before juicing, roll the whole fruit on the counter, pressing down firmly to rupture the juice sacs within. Then, halve it and press out the juice.

KITCHEN TORCH

Small butane-fueled kitchen torches are now sold in many cookware shops and are great for caramelizing the sugar on top of crème brûlée. Or, you can use a regular propane blowtorch—its size makes it a little unwieldy, but it does a good, quick job.

KNIVES

As a baker, I use stainless steel knives and avoid ones made of carbon steel, which can react unappetizingly with fruit. Take care of your knives and don’t run them through the dishwasher, which brutalizes them and can damage the blades. You’ll need three different types of knives for these recipes: A long, sharp serrated bread knife with a 12- or 14-inch (30- to 36-cm) blade is a must for cutting cakes neatly. A high-quality 8-, 10-, or 12-inch (20-, 25-, or 30-cm) chef’s knife—whichever size feels right in your hand— is important for chopping ingredients. For peeling and slicing fruit, I recommend a 3- to 4-inch (8- to 10-cm) paring knife.

MEASURING SPOONS AND CUPS

If you bake frequently, you should have at least two sets each of measuring spoons and dry measuring cups. Otherwise, you’ll have to interrupt what you’re doing to do some speedy washing and drying in order to measure something else.

Measuring Spoons

I’m fond of the OXO measuring spoons that don’t tip over when filled and set on a countertop. But any kind of measuring spoons will do. Be sure when measuring something acidic, like lemon juice, that you use spoons made of a nonreactive material, such as stainless steel or plastic.

Dry and Liquid Measuring Cups

For accurate measuring, you need both dry and liquid measuring cups. Dry measuring cups come in nested sets with cups that hold ¼, ⅓, ½, and 1 cup (60, 80, 125, and 250 ml). The level edges make it easy to scoop up flour, for example, and sweep away the excess with a straight-edged utensil or the back of a knife—the correct way to measure flour, sugar, and other dry ingredients. Liquid measuring cups have handles and spouts and come in 1-cup (250-ml), 2-cup (500-ml), and 1-quart (1-liter) capacities, with measurements indicated on the sides of the cup.

MIXING BOWLS

In my pantry, I have stacks of these in various sizes because baking often requires the use of many bowls at the same time. A good choice is nested stainless steel or heavy-duty plastic bowls, which are
lightweight, durable, and space efficient. Those with rubberized bases make tempering egg yolks for custards, which involves simultaneous pouring and whisking, much easier. (You can also dampen a kitchen towel, twist it like a rope, form it into a ring on the counter, and set the bowl in the center to hold it steady.)

For the purposes of the recipes in this book, a small bowl is one that holds up to 2 quarts (2 liters), a medium bowl holds up to 4 quarts (4 liters), and a large bowl holds more than 4 quarts (4 liters).

PARCHMENT PAPER AND SILICONE MATS

Lining a pan with parchment paper ensures that cookies or cakes don’t stick. Rolls of parchment are sold in supermarkets and cookware stores. Some cookware and restaurant supply stores sell parchment paper in half-sheet sizes (professionals refer to home-size baking sheets as “half-sheet” pans). Another option for lining baking sheets is silicone baking mats, flexible sheets of a nonstick material strong enough to withstand even the high heat of caramel. They are reusable and available at most cookware stores or online.

In most recipes, I advise that it’s fine to use either. But for a few, like
Sesame-Orange Almond Tuiles
using thin parchment paper makes it easier to lift the fragile cookies from the baking sheet.

PASTRY BRUSHES

I use pastry brushes for applying glazes, buttering pans, and brushing cakes to saturate them with syrups. When I roll out dough, I use a wide, dry brush to remove excess flour, which could otherwise toughen the pastry. Buy inexpensive soft-bristled brushes at cookware or hardware stores, ones that you have no qualms dicarding when they start losing their bristles. This will save you the embarrassment of a guest finding a hairlike filament sticking out of his or her wedge of pie.

PASTRY SCRAPERS

I wouldn’t bake without one of these within reach. Rectangular metal scrapers, also called “bench scrapers,” are indispensable for lifting dough while rolling it, moving chopped chocolate and nuts, and scraping work surfaces clean. Flexible plastic scrapers are handy for getting all the dough cleanly out of mixing bowls. It’s rare to find a professional pastry chef who doesn’t keep a pastry scraper nearby at all times.

PIE PLATES AND PIE WEIGHTS

I use both 9- and 10-inch (23-cm and 25-cm) pie plates. My favorites are made of heavy glass, which allows you to see how your bottom crust is browning during baking. In my recipes, you can substitute a 9-inch (23-cm) pie plate if you don’t have a 10-inch (25-cm) one, and feel free to use one made of whatever material you choose. Metal conducts heat more efficiently than glass, so check pies baked in metal tins before the end of the recommended baking time.

For weighting pie and tart crusts that need to be prebaked (baked before the filling is added), you can use dried beans, pennies, or pie weights, which are sold in cookware stores. Weighting the crust prevents the dough from shrinking.